edouble101

Shipping is becoming more of a hassle for everybody these days. Whats up with that?!?! SSA has great customer support, no worries.

If you power a 1000wrms sub or a 1750wrms sub with a 1000w bass boosted clipped signal it still will sound like chit and be harmful to your sub. Imo you do not need a different sub but rather better control of your input signal.

Awesome now get'r done!!

I live in the Pocono region and I hate snow and cold weather, sucks to be me You get more snow in western PA than I do, I feel bad for you! No snow yet. At some point we may meet up. We only live a couple of hours apart. Gook luck with your build. We just got dumped on Sunday night I go to the Bloomsburg fairgrounds often for various events. Thats about as far west as I get. After I get this installed and tuned we can definitely give each other demos. I bet your setup sounds sweet! Yea, I saw you guys got some nice snowfall. I travel your way a couple times a year and my truck sounds ok, but will be redone as soon as it gets warmer out. Sounds good nem

What is more comfortable in your hand? You are big enough for a 10" I really dont want to ask what you are talking about....

I buy 98% from reputable online dealers that offer full factory warranties. 2% I buy used. Rarely do I buy from local dealers. Their prices are ridiculous. I do love RadioShack though!

I live in the Pocono region and I hate snow and cold weather, sucks to be me You get more snow in western PA than I do, I feel bad for you! No snow yet. At some point we may meet up. We only live a couple of hours apart. Gook luck with your build. We just got dumped on Sunday night I go to the Bloomsburg fairgrounds often for various events. Thats about as far west as I get. After I get this installed and tuned we can definitely give each other demos. I bet your setup sounds sweet!

Sweet amp. I am anxious to see it mounted. Good luck.

I live in the Pocono region and I hate snow and cold weather, sucks to be me You get more snow in western PA than I do, I feel bad for you!

Thank you. I am scrutinizing every inch of this and it is taking me forever to complete. I have learned from many many mistakes from the past; no more fried amplifiers and alternators for me!!!! Thank you. Very frustrating day today. Tried to run the two 1/0 runs through the frame rails. It didn't goes so well for a couple reasons. Some of my tools are very old. My large hole drill bits are. I drilled two one inch holes and the bit started smoking, it is fried. I absolutley will not do a job without the proper tools. There is always another day. I was able to see what will and will not work though so not a completely wasted afternoon. Hopefully I will have this instal done by 2012

Thanks for the comments. I like to hear everybody's thoughts! I am running a ground and power under the car. My original plan wad to use conduit. It hung lower than I expected so on to plan B. I am trying to go through the "frame" rails. I am on my way to Lowes to get some grommets and a steel fish. I hope this works out well.

Nice box build

A little bit of progress today I am making a huge deal out of a couple wires.......I know. I finally have my underhood fuse locations figured out. My goal was to have no wire strains (ie. bends) going into the fuse holders and to have them securely mounted. My first attempt looked good on paper but after I built it it wasn't good enough. I had a lot of strain on the wire going into and out of the fuse holders <---- exactly what I did not want. It turned out looking fairly decent but was not up to par functionally for me. Second attempt turned out fairly decent. No wire strains go into or out of either fuse holder <------ I was also able to eliminate 30" of charge wire in the process!!! I rerouted the charge wire to behind the air intake and fabbed up two aluminum brackets. One bracket to support the charge wire and another bracket to hold the fuse holder. I had covered each aluminum bracket with some spare Thermo-Tec that I had from my ZX10R track bike build. I used Thermo-Tec on the fuse holder bracket because the bracket is above the exhaust manifold. Heat probably will not be an issue but I figured it wouldn't hurt. before For the fuse holder on the run of 1/0 to the trunk I fabbed up a bracket out of acrylic. Looks half decent and I do not have any strains on the wire running into and out of the holder The wire will run out of the holder and between the factory fuse box and air box. One more pic What do you all think?

Thanks polkfan. One of my goals is for this install to be clean and tidy I am going to make a plastic base to hold the charging fuse holder and the auxiliary fuse holder for the run to the battery in the trunk. I am anxious to see how that turns out.

Not much of an update today. I installed a fused charge wire. I decided to run the wire on top of the engine bay because I think it will stay cleaner and will be more protected. I was planning on fabricating a bracket to hold the fuse holder. After an hour of looking at placement options for the fuse holder I realized that there was basically not a good spot for what I wanted to do. My biggest goal with finding a fuse holder placement was to minimize any bends going into and out of the holder and to have it near the battery. I decided on a location on top of the battery, this may change.

There are a bunch of hardcore SQ guys on the board. They know their chit but if you don't dot your "i's" and cross your "t's" they will bite your head off lol. Good luck with that. If you stick your speakers behind door cards that will probably be the biggest hinderance for your sound stage. So a bare minimum you need to build door pods. I think the the kick panel is generally a good location for speaker placement. But.... Do you have a big honking center consule? If so kicks might not be good for you then. Get them tweeters above the dash and don't forget your dash mat With proper set up a good eq can really help to get your stage location dialed in. Which eq do you plan on using? You have a big cab, big dash. Have you thought about HLCD's?

Thanks! The link to your van build log doesnt work Thanks, it will have to hold me over for a while.

I have limited time so thats all I have for now!!!!! 3KWP :woot: :woot: :woot:

My power wire under the hood and runs to the trunk are 1/0 Singer HPM. I use copper 5/16 ring terminals. All wires are protected by braided sleeving PET. I use black PET and black heat shrink for ground wires and red PET and red heat shrink for power wires. All ring terminals are soldered with silver and flux then crimped with a hydraulic crimper. I use heat shrink adhesive between the heat shrink and PET. PET

Installing a D3400 under the hood. And upgrading some ground wires. Before: After: Upgraded the ground wire under the battery tray. Before: After: Ground on left side of engine. The factory ground ran from the top of the engine mount to the inside of the frame rail. There was no clearance at this location for my 1/0 wire so I mounted to the strut tower. Ground from battery to driver's side strut tower.

Mounting the XCON : 1/4-20 bolts and screw-in wood fasteners which I also glued in. I wanted to try this method......it works just use extreme caution. I decided to use close cell foam for a gasket instead of the supplied rubber gasket. Making a hole punch for the foam.

System goal : sound good and pound HU : Kenwwod X994 EQ/Crossover : Audiocontrol DQXS Front stage amp : Boss REV-665JL Audio XD400/4 Sub amp : Crescendo 3KWP Highs/mids : Viper Audio 650.2 Midbass : Exodus EX-Anarchy Subwwofer : SSA XCON 15D2 (2) Sundown Z 12v.2 with v.3 softparts DC Power 270XP and two XS Power D3400. I have been waiting and waiting and waiting for my alt. I really hope Rob comes through with this! Hidden HU install. Tweets in custom fiberglass sail panels aimed at each other. 6.5" midrange in kicks aimed at opposing glass. 6.5" midbass in custom door panels aimed at each other.

I had an 06' with two twelves. The box measured approx: 34-1/8"W x 14-7/8"H x 16-1/2"D1 (top) x 11-1/2"D2 (bottom), D1 and D2 are the angled dimensions. Internal approx 2.5 cf. I do not have any pics. The car was slow as molasses. I had the car for 2 months then traded it in for a RSX-S. All I can tell you is that the dimensions I gave you fit the 06' Civic.

Different slug, different back plate (of course), different coil, different pole, yadda yadda you get the point. The cooling, which we can get into more later down the road, is different as it forces more air over the coil and not out the back of a pole vent. The reason for the hard cap on the Zcon is that it has the solid pole piece causing a great deal of air pressure behind the cone that would be too great for the "Xcon/Icon" dust cap. The Zcon does not have a shorting ring, as inductance in this market segment is not as paramount as it is in the SuperSub realm that the Xcon resides in. A challenge for us is to help people, who are interested in our drivers to understand the design and intent differences between the Xcon and Zcon. Maybe I will need to make a topic about that in the near future to help clear up any possible confusion. I understand the new design much better now. I think an in-depth product line comparison thread would be great!

How are you cooling the voice coil? I was expecting to see an aluminum spacer or something. Just looks like a double stacked magnet when compared to an XCON. I am excited to hear more about it.