edouble101

I plan on re-tuning tomorrow with a slightly different approach. New battery installed. Diehard Platinum group 65.

The 15" will be a tad more efficient and the 18" will have more cone area. Might equal out in the end. I edited it cause I read 5.3 for the sub, which I didn't think he meant port as well. I would say 4.2 is a good size for a 15. Depends on the sub though. My dcons are in 5cubes each without port. But then again some only need 2.5... Most 18s need at least 5-6. I ran my Z.3 18" in 4.2 cubes (not counting port) and it sounded great. I hit a 143.8@32hz on 1500ish watts. I know that isnt ear shattering but it isnt bad either. The Z's can run in a lot smaller enclosures than you may think. You gain efficiency by using larger enclosures.

The 15" will be a tad more efficient and the 18" will have more cone area. Might equal out in the end.

No idea.

You can use either sub in that size enclosure with that amount of power. Both subs will sound great on 1.6kw as well.

M25 is sold

what were you expecting? A +160db build log

I was expecting something when I clicked on this log. Nice equipment.

...continued Product Brand & Model: 4. Phoenix Gold M25 5. Rockford Fosgate Punch 40i DSM Condition of all items: I will test all used amps for functionality (see videos). BNIB amps will not be tested unless absolutely required. 4. Excellent condition used 5. Excellent condition used Total Price: : 4. SOLD 5. $175 shippped Shipping Terms: : All amps shipped FedEx Ground, tracking, insurance Pictures: 4. 4. 4. 4. 4. 4. 4. 4. 5. 5. 5. 5. 5. 5. 5. 5. 5. 5. 5.

Product Brand & Model: 1. Phoenix Gold MS275 2. Crunch 250 3. Coustic 160 Condition of all items: I will test all used amps for functionality (see videos). BNIB amps will not be tested unless absolutely required. 1. BNIB 2. BNIB 3. BNIB Total Price: : 1.SOLD 2.$275 shipped 3. $135 shipped Shipping Terms: : All amps shipped FedEx Ground, tracking, insurance Pictures: 1. 1. 1. 1. 1. 1. 2. 2. 2. 2. 2. 2. 2. 3. 3. 3. 3. 3. 3. 3.

Bump for box input. Do the numbers look good?What are your goals for this instal? Do you know what the resonant freq in your vehicle is? You could possibly tune differently to get a flatter freq response or for a better spl score.

Let us know how it works out for you in your install.

You are the guy that buys the two small pepperoni pizzas for three bucks more than the large even though it is 15% less food.Pathetically your analogy doesnt coincide with my previous posts. Wanna try again?

Box and port ratios still apply. Still no better. Why isnt more cone area in the same size net enclosure with the same tuning beneficial? Plus there would be better thermal conditions with having more coils to disipate the generated heat.

8" subs could be beneficial when used in multiples. More cone area and more coils to apply the same amount of power versues smaller quantity of larger subs.

Wow. No attempt at installing them? I know what I paid for the Ultra's from the man himself and I am sure this is a steal for these Pro's. GLWS

I readjusted the gains on my KS900.6. I used two 8 ohm non-inductive dummy loads wired together for 4 ohms, a hand held o-scope and DMM. I had previously set the gains with a DMM only. It turned out that the midbass channels on the KS900.6 was set at a whooping 20 watts :surprised: at my max listening volume (42/62). Needless to say that the midbass output is much improved now The ZR800's still drop on their face from 100hz on down. I do not see how anybody can say they have good bass output. I setup my desktop with a M-Audio 192 soundcard. I calibrated the soundcard and used the desktop for today's measurements. I also took the same measurement with my laptop. I simply unplugged the USB from the desktop and plugged it into the laptop. No other changes. Other than the overall level the graphs are pretty similar, close enough for my garage testings. The biggest change is on the laptop around 20khz. The green plot is the laptop, the purple plot is the desktop. As you can see the plots aren't perfect. I did my best with level setting, phase and xover points to get the graph as smooth as possible without EQ. I could not tame the subs under 40hz, lots of cutting. 32hz seems to be the resonant freq for this car. All sub systems I've had peaked there. Boosting at 63hz, cutting at 80hz. I could not get 320hz to budge :confused: 640hz was another issue. 10khz on up needed boosting as well. Even though the substage/midbass are nearly 20db louder than the mids/highs I think it sounds like it should. Here are the plots of the all drivers running full range (except tweets). This helped me choose my xover points. The final xover settings were decided on based on max levels on the RTA. From 50-100hz was always an issue with this install. The subs are low passed at 100hz@24db. It looks weird on paper but the midbass is high passed at 80@18db. Looks weird but that is what sounded the best. The midbass drivers are in normal phase and the subs are set at reverse phase. The ZR800 start to roll off around 200hz and the mids start to roll off around 400hz. I choose 315hz to cross them at. The mids/tweets are crossed an 3.15khz. Midbass/mids/tweets are normal phase. The green plot is the sub and midbass both set a normal phase. The purple plot is the sub in reverse phase, midbass normal phase. The blue plot is the sub in normal phase, midbass reverse phase. The subsystem is blending into the front stage much much better now. I am very pleased! I have contacted chefhow, a multi MECA PA state champ, and he is willing to listen to my car and give me some pointers I am anxious to hear what he says! Next things to do is to glue some carpet down in a few spots and replace my XS Power D3400, it isn't holding a good charge anymore (about 4 years old). I think I am replacing it with a Sears Diehard Platinum group 65. Always open to suggestions/thoughts!!!

Thanks! My wife its going to give birth to our daughter within the next few weeks. I will get ahold of you shortly after for a meet up!

....a 7khz slope might sound high put remember these are hlcd's and once mounted in a car they peak high around 2-5khz. A 7khz slope at 6db will protect the driver under 1.5khz and tame those peaks.

Thanks Edouble!! I got them as far back as I could, physically. I actually caught a break on the driver side. What a pickle that was lol. When I press the brake pedal, the rod that the adjustable pedal is on, would push down of the top side of the horn, but the way I have it now, when I push it down, the pressure will move the horn down, but once break is released, the horn will be supported again. On the passenger side, there is some kind of black container in the way from preventing me to go back any further. But I do have each motor towards the wall side. The sound stage, at least to me, sounds phucking unbelievable. These are a bit bright around the 3k range. Try to adjust those may be difficult due to my limitation of sq controls via my pioneer. An easy way to tame those minis is to set your high pass filter at 7000hz with a shallow 6db slope. This will almost eliminate the need for eq. Can you do that with the equipment you have?

Infinite baffle = free air with a baffle separating the front wave from the rear wave.

Sure thing man. If you need something fab'd up I would be glad to help!

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VYYtsi8n0rE

The amp install is complete! After three hours or so of tuning with the subs I am very pleased. I have not achieved the "up front" bass yet but I am hoping I will get that figured out. Initial impression they sound fantastic. IB gives me a new perspective on low bass. I never had an install that was this smooth sounding. The output level is equally impressive. I think it could hit 140db.

Nice! Staging will be better with the driver's side horn mounted closer to the kick panel (more towards the outside of the car). Although I dont think you are concerned with the sound stage lol. No get some 10" midbass in there!