edouble101

Those OA look great. Do you like them? I like your soldering station

I am anxious to see those doors finished!

hahahahhahahahaha his face is priceless!

Looks like you are pounding something fierce

Let us know if or when you get your alternator... and if it fits!

$750 shipped. I will also work out a trade for a Phoenix Gold ZPA 0.5 SOLD SOLD SOLD SOLD SOLD SOLD

My comment is to make these IB friendly. Shallow mount IB will free up even more trunk space. This would also open the door to SUV installs for IB much easier.

You are going to like those JL XD amps. I ran them for a short while and they worked flawlessly.

What you are measuring with your DVM is DCR. DCR is the speakers impedance at rest. The advertised impedance of a speaker (ie 4 ohms) is an average over a range of frequencies. You measured 0.8 ohms which is accurate for a 0.5-1.0 ohm load at the amp. Based on t/s specs of the drivers you purchased and the wiring configuration you are using, 0.5 ohms should be the minimum impedance at your amplifier. A quick test for a DVM is to touch both probes together when in resistance mode. The display should be 0.00 (or to whatever decimal place it is).

Still available.

The Hyundai is staying as is. I am buying a SUV/Truck and using Eric Stevens Mini Ultra's and 10" Failtal Pro for the front stage. The Elite.2 is too much power for the HLCD's. I'd like to use matching amps for the front stage.

I do not have an immediate need for this amp. It is a beauty!

Get'n down for sure!

1. Product: Phoenix Gold Elite.2 2. Specs: The Elite amplifiers feature only the finest in audio components such as Burr Brown op-amps, Monolithic signal capacitors, and dual-package Sanken output transistors. This result is unparalleled sonic performance in a mobile audio amplifier. The sheer breadth of the Elite amplifiers' dynamic range conveys a musical realism that transcends standard amplifier designs. With seemingly unlimited frequency response and smashing dynamic range the end result is the finest sounding amplifier Phoenix Gold has ever built, period. Oh yeah, they are also built like a brick house and drive low impedance loads without breaking a sweat. POWER RATING 500 Watts x 2 Channel / 1 Ohm 400 Watts x 2 Channel / 2 Ohms 250 Watts x 2 Channel / 4 Ohms LOW PASS RANGE 40Hz to 4kHz LOW PASS SLOPE 18dB/Octave HIGH PASS RANGE 20Hz to 4kHz HIGH PASS SLOPE 18dB/Octave POWER TERMINAL 1/0GA FREQUENCY RESPONSE 10Hz to 50kHz (+/- 1dB) SIGNAL TO NOISE RATIO Greater than 110dB EFFICIENCY 55% DAMPING FACTOR Greater than 200 HEATSINK THERMAL MASS 13 grams per mm 3. Description/Condition: Used in excellent condition 4. Price: : SOLD $800 shipped and insured in the lower 48 5. Pictures:

So far so good! I used almost an entire tube of goop. The other sub is on the kitchen counter. Thanks again for offering these Duran.

Great. Thanks guys. I will post pics when i have this done!

That would be great. Thanks. Amazing goop. Every cap that goes out is test fitted to assure they will fit properly, both caps fit perfectly on the exact same cones and surrounds as your IB3's. They will mount to the surround itself in the small space where the surround is parallel to the cone. Ok, thanks for the reply. I was thinking that the cap would mount to the cone but rather it is the surround. Should I put goop on the surround or the cap when I install it?

I received my caps yesterday. They look great. I do have a question. Are they suppose to be glued to the cone at the base of the surround or are they suppose to be glued to the surround itself? As you mentioned they are slightly bowed. I measured 10 1//2" in diameter across and ninety degrees from that 10 3/4" across. Even that out to about 10 5/8" nominal on the cf cap. The base of the surround at the cone is 10 1/2". Little concerned I will take the stock cap off and these will not fit. Also, ca glue or amazing goop?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uhBwvwY8uno

Do what you gotta do man. You will learn as you go.

Those subs are huge! This build is getting nuts

Excellent choice in sub. Your amp rack is hella sick!

I had a similar issue once I bolted a 270 amp alternator made for a V8 to my 4 cylinder. The simplest solution I have found was a Dayco pulley. The easiest is a pullley that rides on the outside of the belt, therefore the pulley is smooth not grooved (you want a "flat polymer"). I bought mine from Advance Auto Parts (a local auto parts chain store). I couldn't just walk into the store and say "I need an idler pulley for my car", it didn't come with one from the factory. By searching through the Dayco website and I found a few. I mounted my idler puller through one of the mounting bolts to the alternator. The criteria was narrowed by first looking at the "inside diameter" . The "inside diameter" is the od size of the bolt that you will mount the idler pulley. Then look at the "width". You may think you need to buy the widest pulley possible but rather you need on that is 2-3mm larger than your belt width. Last but not least is the "outside diameter". This is the overall diameter of the pulley, bigger the better. Your mounting location will determine this. I ended up buying three pulleys and three different belt sizes until i got the best combination. And don't forget you need a good "shoulder bolt" to mount your idler pulley. You may need a stack of washers as well to get the spacing correct. This sounds like an easy task but it takes some cash and trial and error to get it right. The red arrow points to the idler pulley I use in my install. The DC Power piece of shit is no longer used but is in this picture. Without idler puller, again ignore the DC Power P.O.S.

If they are shipping out to me I am happy with that!

Duran, I pm''d you for a monthly update on my order that I placed with you on November 17, 2012. I received no response. It is approaching three months since I placed my order for two 15" concave dustcaps for IB315's. I think it is fair for you to issue me a full refund of $149.67 since you have not shipped the product that I ordered from you.