edouble101

I built the enclosure in side th trunk. I slid the port up through the holes I already cut and glued and bolted it in place. There isn't a formula to figure out bracing. From my experience under 2^3ft does not need bracing.

Sure. I am not in an immediate need to put it up for sale but if you want it pm me.

Zuki

No new progress Just ordered a new sound card for my puter (so stoked about this) since my on-board sound is not going to cut it for RTA tuning. I also ordered a dash mat I tried to make one but it looked like chit. As soon as I wrap up the IB install tuning can start. Oh yeah new amps for the front stage will be ordered soon The KS900.6 is doing it's thing very well but the fan noise will hurt my score.

Other than you mounting limitations your goals are trivial. Whether it is SPL or SQ porting through the rear deck with subs firing forward will work well if installed properly. I did this with a single Sundown Z.3 18" and an 8" aero port. Depending on your enclosure size and subwoofer(s) used it can sound very good. I designed this particular enclosure for low group delay and flat response. It sounded very good. IIRC I had it metered and it reached 142.87db at 30hz at the head rest. Not too bad considering it wasn't an SPL build and it was relatively low power. To maximize the enclosure volume I mounted the driver with the magnet out. I removed the center arm rest and there was no difference with seats down or seats up.

What are the specs for the enclosure the gcon is in? Possibly a different enclosure will give you the midbass you desire.

This is a point where my testing inaccuracy will be defined and accepted. I am not going to buy a better scope unless it is under $300. The only other method that I know of is with software and a mic, I have both. Your thoughts?

I am in the process of updating my computer's audio (currently RealTek onboard audio). I think I am going with a M-Audio Audiophile 192 sound card. After I get that calibrated and get my mic calibrated I will post up my THD testing method. I will be using TrueRTA and a mic. Note: Keep in mind I am not doing these tests for anything more than my entertainment. I enjoy this hobby. I am comfortable with a certain level of inaccuracy in my testing methods. Basically, I don't want to invest goobs of money in test equipment, less than $300. I do appreciate everyone's input.

insanity

@M5 - THD testing is another route I would like to look into. @bromo - Thanks for clearing that up. I will need to educate myself further on the tools I am using!

Looking good. A trick to getting the bondo (and resin) to adhere to plastic is to drill holes in the plastic. The bondo will seep into those holes and grab a hold of the plastic. The bondo will still pull from the plastic if you make it to but it is stronger than not using holes.

Actually I do not have much free time. This is a rainy/snowy day project I will make time to help you though

My meter does not read RMS. I am measuring a/c voltage then doing the math. Am I still doing this right?

The point of this particular thread is to see if you guys think that my testing method is correct.

I have about 30 1990's amplifiers. Mostly Precision Power. I want to test the amplifiers both for functionality and for max unclipped output. I will record the data on a spreadsheet. I will also record by video. Method : Power supply - 12v car battery Source - Ipod Load - (2) 200w 8ohm non-inductive resistors Oscilloscope - DSO Nano panel meter for measuring power supply voltage Amplifier output, resistor, DSO Nano, and volt meter connections "Switched" turn-on Positive and negative blocks Wattage will be calculated using P=E^2/R. Resistance of the dummy load will be measured before and after the test. Are there any faults in my testing method? First amp tested is a PPI Ax400. Max unclipped output across all four channels is at 15.16v a/c @ 1000hz. Dummy load resistance was 4.2 ohms starting and after the test. This would make max unclipped power at 54.72 wrms. This was at 12.54v d/c. Video of LR channel being tested on a PPI Ax400

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Why is that? I love this^^^ and doubt thatmine will come out half that good. But hey, I have to start somewhere. Well, thanks! Anybody can do it.

Why is that?

Back to working on the IB install. Next up is mounting the rear battery. Based by the amount of power I am using, with the engine on an auxiliary battery isn't necessary. When I start competing in SQ comps the extra reserve form an axillary battery will be useful. The rear battery will be flush mounted into the trunk floor. Starting out as a flat sheet of steel stock. Welded, smoothed ans boxed up.

Glad to hear that you are ok

I had been toying with the idea of a "rat rod" SPL build for a long time. Would be bad ass, everybody would be talking about it. It has to be trick inside though.... like single subwoofer +160db.

I think an old rusty '57-or-another Chevy would be very cool. Maybe even throw a chrome grill on it a some moon wheels for shits and giggles. Those cars had huge trunks and big cabins. Would be a sweet setup to hold lots of batteries and a big wall. You can get parts for it anywhere too. Like this

Product Brand & Model: Tang Band W4-1337SD 4" Titanium Driver http://www.parts-exp...tnumber=264-848 Condition of all items: 9/10 cosmetic due to butyl rubber on backside of mounting flange 10/10 mechainal Total Price: : SOLD SOLD SOLD $110 shipped Shipping Terms: : Shipped to the lower 48, tracking and insurance Pictures: - Unless you are a Upgraded member, or your last 10 iTrader feedbacks are positive, you must post a picture of the exact item you are selling.

Yeah buddy. Anybody that has ever heard these tweets would know why they sold fast

SOLD