edouble101

I could be wrong but doesn't the SSD have a pole vent as well? The previous version did their new version doesnt.

Defintiely, the SSD 10 is another great option.

I would not use the gcon for numerous reasons. The monting depth is 6.5" and that does not include clearence for the pole vent (add an extra 2-3"). Using 0.75" MDF for enclsoure construction you will not enough depth with you 8" max od measurement. The Sundown SD-2 10" is designed for your application. Mounting depth is 4.75" and it does not have a pole vent. You can literally mount the driver against the back wall of the enclsoure without affecting driver performance. Also, it is an excellent driver for use in a small sealed enlcosure. Smaller enclsoure equals more leg room, perfect for behind the seat mounting. You can buy it here for $159.99 shipped.

What are your goals for the soundstage? Do you want good imaging? Are you concerned about stage height? Stage height and imaging are important to me. If I was doing a two-way I would use a fullrange driver and midbass driver. The midbass driver would be in the door and the fullrange driver would be in the a-pillar or sail panel. I prefer a-pillar because the driver is not getting jarred every time I open and close the door. I would start with low-pass the midbass fairly high, about 1.2-1.5khz and high-pass the widbander about 500-800hz. This little bit of overlap and a relatively high low-pass on the midbass will create a nice wide soundtsage that will be at dash level or higher. A two-way with a tweeter and midrange/midbass would be a different install. The tweeter and midrange/midbass would both be in the kicks. I would probably use a large format tweeter in this scenario. If you are not critically concerned about the soundstage then use a small format tweeter and a midrange/midbass driver. A large format tweeter mounted in the door or a-pillar doesnt make much sense. Large format tweeters are mostly over four inches in diameter. Hell just use a 3" widbander then (it is smaller and can be crossed lower). Mount the small format tweeter as high as you can get it and midrange/midbass driver mounted ib in the door. Trying to build an enclosure in the door without modify the door card maybe difficult. I can not think of any reason why that would be beneficial either unless you built a ported enclosure. I can tell you that you will get decent results with this simple two-way. The soundstage will not be very high, about the height of the middle of your steering wheel, but with a little processing it will sound good. I would look for a midrange/midbass driver that has a good fr up to 5k. Since you are low-passing your sub relatively high you can choose a driver that has a higher fs and qts which should have decent sensitivity too. Look for a tweeter that can be crossed 4-5/12db comfortably. An example of two drivers that I think would work well in this instance is the Hi-Vi L6-4R and LPG 25NFA. You can purchase numerous mounting pieces for the 25NFA that should make mounting and aiming easier.

I would not use an ap mat in a door for a few reasons. For one moisture will ruin the membrane material. Not too sure why you a stuck on low qts for midbass. Higher qts is better suited to achieve a good midbass response. Plus ib maybe your best option. Plexi is not the optimum choice for enclosure materials. Especially the thin stuff you would be using. Hard plastic cutting board material would be better. Although like I stated ib is probably best for you. IMO for your install a two way would be best. Can you fabricate a small full range driver in your sail panel, dash or a-pillar?

Fast glass: large aperature lens (small f-stop # like 1.8), great for low light conditions. Larger aperature opening allows more light into the sensor which enables you to use faster shutter speeds. Check out David Hobby's strobist blog. http://strobist.blogspot.com/2006/03/lighting-101.html?m=1 Dom Bower is also an excellent blogger/teacher http://www.dombower.com/section439099.html If you want to get serious with your photography step it up to the D7000. All the features you need at the fraction of a "professional" camera.

What flashes do you already have? For the sake of portability my two SB800's do the job. The D3000 is an entry level camera that I doubt supports off camera flashes. You will need to manually adjust your flash settings. Sounds like you are just starting out so manual flash is a great way to learn. Be fore warned, you will not just buy flashes and take professional photographs. If I were you, buy a better camera and fast glass. Flash photography can produce amazing photographs but you need to be well versed in the understanding of your equipment and setup.

This doesn't help you but I sent Fi a question about my order this morning. I received a reply this afternoon. If you do not get a response with a couple days I would resend the email. Timely email response is always beneficial for both parties. From my correspondences with Fi and public posts I have read on this forum I guarantee you they are doing the best they can.

Resend your email. If it doesn't get responded to in a few days send it a third time. Not to make excuses for an extended delayed response time but SDS is not a full time job for Don. Being a previous customer, I can tell you that the personalized service you will receive is incomparable. You will waste your time and money looking elsewhere.

If it sounds good to your ears and you are not using an amp rated extremely higher than your speakers can handle then crank it up.

If one of the options was Sundown, you would have chosen it Based off of my past experience using both drivers, I would have choosen the Z.3 without a doubt. There are a few other brands that have equally impressive products but none were mentioned as a buying option from the op.

The SSA nuthuggers will recommend the zcon. Huge differences between these two subs. Premature to recommend one over the other with the information you provided.

Yep yep!

LOL at these posts. Unless you have mechanical noise the driver will sound the same mounted normally (magnet in) or inverted (magnet out). There is absolutely no need to reverse polarity. If you mount one drive inverted and one "normal" you still would not swap wires.The exact same amplitude is coming form the front side of the cone as there is from the back side. Obviously if the driver has a suspension misalignment this may not be true. If you do think that you setup sounds differently with inverted drivers consider driver volume displacement. The volume of the enclosure will be greater and tuning will be lower compared to "normally" mounted drivers.

I would love to use a pair of IB315. The downside is my trunk volume (empty) is 14.2^3ft. High qts and large vas of the IB315's make them less than ideal for my use. Am I wrong? With a pair you would get a slight bump in Qtc, some where in the .9 range....which isn't terrible, but depends on your tastes. However you can only expect Qtc to increase from there as you start piling things in the trunk and reducing the volume of the "enclosure". The other issue is the lower F3 which will probably need more EQ work to flatten out than something that starts a shallower slope higher up in the frequency response. I looked at the IB315 again. With two of them I can achieve 1x vas each with an empty trunk. I know this isn't ideal and isn't true IB. In the car audio realm what is ideal. I have a 13W6 sitting beside me that I have been seriously thinking about using IB. I was also thinking about buying another. The 13W6 isn't cheap though, selling for about $450 online. I can buy two IB315's for the price of one 13W6. Cost does have somewhat of a factor on my install but if I was going sealed or ported I wouldn't buy any other brand than JL Audio. .....rant over..... More importantly I will have more displacement with two IB315's than with two 13W6. The only thing I am concerned about is a high QTC. I finally made a decision a dropped the loot on two IB315's. I will keep you posted!

I would love to use a pair of IB315. The downside is my trunk volume (empty) is 14.2^3ft. High qts and large vas of the IB315's make them less than ideal for my use. Am I wrong?

Both subs have been sold

I spoke with Mr. Mantz yesterday. He hasn't looked at my amp yet because he just overcame an illness from last week. I have been doing more research. Along with the help of DIYMA this amp has been identified as a 250c. From unofficial sources the "c" designates commercial end use. This model was used in Florida during the early 1990's to power hurricane warning speakers. This model, with a pink circuit board, was a prototype for Stillwater. This amp never made it to be rebadged as Kicker. Power specs are 1000wrms@4ohm. This may all be BS. But that is all the info I could gather. Hopefully Mr. Mantz can confirm.

Use whatever size within that range of enclosure size. The manufacturer didn't state "use this size for x amount of power". Design your enclosure based on manufacturer specs and you should be good. Generally larger enclosures are more efficient at tuning and it maybe easier to achieve a reasonable port length. Smaller enclosures are, well, smaller. Use what fits the space you have available and are within the range of "large" and "small" based on manufacturer spec. Enclosure modeling programs such as WinISD are useful.

He answered your question, follow the manufacturer's recommendations. Honestly and not trying to be a dick, if you did a little more research yourself you never would of had to have asked the question. Manufacturers recommendations are always solid but with more experience you can adjust to better suit your goals. He will have you chasing your tail for as long as you will let him. Ignore him. Fortunately I am not the one that has to rely on this forum to deepen my pocket on his arrogance would have been gone.

Nice!

DC Audio is a US build house so they have to be good...

There are more important factors that go into "being loud" than subs. Get your install design handled first.

This forum's entertainment factor is high

Do you have the polarity reversed?