edouble101

Both companies offer a great product and excellent customer service. Based on manufacturer recommendations you will be able to use the SA-12 in smaller enclosures than the 12" gcon. SA-12 1.5-2.0^3ft @ 35hz. GCON optimal 2.5-3.0^3ft @ 28-33hz. You said you wanted to run 2.0^3ft tuned to ~35hz, the SA-12 fits the your design goals. There are literally hundreds of installs out there with SA subs hitting high numbers (you said you want loud). They are a proven performer.

I am going. If you or anybody else are going, Pm me and we can exchange numbers.

Big event in Pottsville this Sunday

That was the inspection routine in the Hyanes manual as well, it passed. I am thinking it could be the check valve in the vacuum line going to the booster?

I have not recieved a notice but I will look into it. I followed the Haynes manual to troubleshoot the brake booster. Eveything seems fine.

Thanks for the replies fellas. After I was towed home I glanced over a few things. The brake rotors are a shiny blue now. There wasn’t anything else obvious to the eye other than one thing that I knew about. The driver's side rear caliper is not working. I knew about this now for three weeks now. I know I need to fix it but I do not think this is the problem. After coming home I took the car out for at 17 mile spin. There are no signs of brake issues whatsoever! This has me puzzled. The brake pedal has good feel, the brakes feel normal and no overheating. When the brakes overheated I was going up a 1.5 mile hill, very steep actually. I was on the phone with a guy from Ohio Generator discussing retro fitting my car with a Ford large case alt. I wonder if I somehow had my foot on the brake and gas at the same time at some point. I do not think I did though. I was in fourth gear and had to downshift into third then had to downshift into second at 5,000 RPM just to make it up the hill. Any more ideas? Does this sound like an intermittent problem?

Vehicle: 2008 Hyundai Elantra, 4 wheel disc brakes, ABS equipped. I was on my way home today and I was experiencing a drastic reduction in power. As I was pulling into a gas station to investigate my brake pedal was almost completely firm. I stopped the vehicle and smoke starting rising from all four wheels. I am currently waiting for a tow truck to home I replaced all four rotors and pads 3 weeks ago. I didnt do anything with the brake lines or fluid. Any idea why my brakes will lock up like this?

I am always amazed at what some people value

I am not surprised that you have good results. I dont believe that anybody would use another sound deadening manufacturer after using SDS.

You have an Audiopipe 1500-D? Series Wiring a DVC 2ohm driver Then wire it up like this : Strapping Diagram

I am in the market for batteries. Let me know if you have any for sale.

You never said where your second battery is. I am assuming it is in the rear of the vehicle. I would definitely run your pos and neg from the amp to your secondary battery. Might not be the cause of your issue though. So channel four on your amp is not connected? This shouldnt matter but possibly with your amp it does. Try running a 4/4/4/4 ohm load on your amp. Trying to help you eliminate unseen problems. Since you said that a direct swap with another four channel amp showed no signs of the issues you have it is probably 1100.4 related.

Since you have a second battery why isn't your amp directly wired to it?

I am not understanding this. You have a four channel amp and using three channels all at different impedence?

Is the amp mounted to your subwoofer enclosure? Where do you have your amp ground connected?

Sorry to hear man. It sucks to put hard work into a build for it to be jacked.

Why dont you get coil springs made for your car to support the added weight?

Those Hummers are nutz. Ridiculously big!

NIce vids. The white BMW three wheel'n was bad ass!

I thought PE had them for $9.88 You prolly paid more for shipping! I think the JL's will be the best driver for my installation and goals. I spent a lot of time reviewing the 8" selection from many sources. The ZR800 certainty wasnt choosen for the JL Audio logo.

I dont understand what is what on your second sketch Why is your port on the side in your first sketch? Looks loike it would be easier to build with the port in the middle. A 6" aero port would probably work well if you have the depth.

I am not here to get into a pissing contest with you. Everything I stated was easy to understand. Enough with the bullshit questions about topics I already answered. You post in this thread to fuck with me, I get it. I made a bad decision on driver selction and an even worse decision on enclsoure size. Yeah I fucked it up - no shit. I am learning as I go which is one of the reasons I started this thread. You have me chasing my tail which is ending up no where. Goal accomplished on your end. And yes I have mentioned in numerous thread numerous times what I thought of about SSA products. My ignorance has been pointed out to me and cleared up numerous times as well. I get it. Get the fuck over it.

Why I am using an RTA is to help me achieve the sound I am looking for. Plus the geek in me enjoys it.

My goal for this install is to achieve a realistic soundstage. I want to hear the soundstage in front of the vehicle at eye level. I do not want to call this a flat out SQ install. I do enjoy an exaggerated sub stage and midbass. I want my midrange and high end to be smooth and not painful to listen to at high volume. It is very important to me to have no audible distortion caused by driver fatigue due to not being able to handle the power from my KS900.6 I mostly listen to female vocalists such as Cranberries, Dido, Jem, Flyleaf... I also listen to a lot of heavy metal genre and rap (to satisfy the basshead in me). I am fed up with my soundstage in the middle of my dash. I am also fed up with having a lack of midbass. When I put on my headphones and play Metallica I imagine my car sounding that good. My terminology when it comes to describing sound is horrible.

It is going to take some time for me to fully process this. Thank you for helping. Where should I position the mic for near field measuring? I would like to stop tuning with the RS225's and drop in the ZR800-CW's and start over with tuning. Do you agree? What is "complex averaging as phase"?