edouble101

Not a good comparison. But if you must, the SSD's are better in every aspect. Which they should be. A Fi X and dcon would be a better "which one".

A low tuned enclosure is often misunderstood. You do not need a low tuned enclosure to achieve a flat FR. A properly adjusted EQ can do that. Another note to consider, SA-15 for SQ? There are better options available, not saying a SA-15 is a fart cannon. I have used WinISD beta to do all the designing, and I would do say a 30hz tune, because the F3 is at ~25hz. but, it becomes a little peaky for my liking around 52hz. I don't want a curve to exceed +3db. So, the lower tuning helps it become more flat. Once you place your "finely tuned enclosure" into a vehicle FR anomalies will be nothing compared to what you planned. Tame those peaks an dips with an EQ. If the port was long enough, I am more than happy to go out and just buy some pvc and duct tape some port flares to the ends... Could you tell me how to find port area for a tube? I have just been doing W x H. Also, should I use more than one port? Vc = π×r²×h r^2 from outside of tube Do some research brah. This shit is all over the net. Tons of tips all over the net.

I am not a fan of aftermarket lighting gizoms but these are badass

I think those alpines can take 100rms each @4 ohms ....and?

100wrms per channel or total? I have a JL XD400/4, it is 75Wx4 @ 4ohm, fantastic amp. Very small and can be bought for under 3 bones.

You need a good sealer/primer. The cut edges are more porous and are soaking up the primer.

Well now they are. when I tested it didn't seem to be that big of a difference, but once the exodus' were in the doors, it was a different story. Thanks hehe. Now that you heard the difference in the EX's between sealed and IB, imagine them ported Check out the FR89EX to use as a full range, if you are going that route. Best there is imo. If you dont like them I will buy them off you I could always use spares.

I have been telling you to get those tweets high I have yet to hear a kick mounted tweet that sounded good without a tweet mounted high as well.

Small update: *Sorry for the shitty pics.* I used a Radio Shack breadboard to layout a simple 5V regulator circuit built around a LM7805. LM7805 diagram Here is the basic circuit. Board design Simple video of how the circuit works. For some reason the video quality became very poor when uploading it Next up is to transfer the circuit to a PCB(printed circuit board).

No man. Look at your possible routes and choose one that is best. 4 runs IMO are best under the vehicle but done in a manner that will never be an electrical or fire hazard. Repeat NEVER AN ELECTRICAL OR FIRE HAZARD.

Cool pics. Little under exposed but your forgiven. Shit happens. Just dont heat up those leads too much when soldering.

No doubt, get those tweets ear level and aimed at each other

Where? here You are a straight up asshole. Take your own advice and "go blow a shot gun" i bet you stay awake at night thinking of me blowing on things.... you cant put quotes on something i never said sweet pea. and i know your mad because i straightened out your bad advice a time or two. im not mad at you baby girl.

Where? here You are a straight up asshole. Take your own advice and "go blow a shot gun"

Make Dinner Heating up the oven now... fuck your wife while making dinner on the internet. We had coitus last night we are good for a few weeks

Yes this is a daily setup for the most part. I do plan on competing this summer when i can. I got dual 2ohm subs so i can wire them down to 1 ohm. Ive never had a setup this big so im still not sure how many batteries i need. I was thinking about a couple of xs d3100's or something similar. Also i was thinking instead of 2 runs of 1/0 guage i would do just a single run of like 2/0 welding wire or something. I would definitely do two runs of 1/0 both pos and neg. 4 run runs total. Utilize the most of you HO alt and reduce the need for power storage capacity near the amps. IMO you will be fine with the biggest XS Power battery to replace your starting battery and a D3400 mounted near the amp. This will give the DC 5.0K the power it needs for burbs at engine idle and the additional wiring to supply the 5.0K for daily driving commutes.

I would spend a lot

Have you even thought about what you asked? No comparison.

Hmmm make dinner for my wife or fuck around on the net...

I want to see 50% off deals

Chit mang! Clean pics for the win. Good grab on the DC Audio amp and alt! The h/u install looks tight as well. I have to admit, I am not a big endorser of multiple batteries. What impedance are wiring up your 4 10"ers to the amp? This is a daily setup, right?

I cant wait to show you these guys in my trunk

For my liking, a-pllar tweets should be as ear level as possible, aimed at each other. I would definitely not cross tweets over at 2600hz being mounted that far away from a kick mounted midrange. If you are spacing those two drivers that far apart cross the tweet as high as possible, plus 4000hz at least. Sounds really f'ing weird having your crossover points right in the middle of midrange frequencies.

Either way bro it all comes down to testing, as you know. Grab some towels and some tape and have fun!