edouble101

Good to know. I do not want to be elbow deep in a build to realize I didn't have the design properly figured out.

Gotcha. I plan on using either the MS8 or the 3SIXTY.3 if it comes out in time. I missed the part where he was specifically referencing HT crossover designs for his midranges. As Ryan said.....most of what happens in HT isn't going to transfer to car audio as our environment and other constraints are so much more challenging and so much further from ideal. Thanks again for your help.

Thank you for the very fast replies Impious and Tirefryr. I am very happy that I asked the question instead of mixing up more ideas in my head.

Ah ha! Do you see a huge difference between a tweeter/midbass at 88db 1w/1m and a midrange at 91db 1w/1m?

What other methods are there to "pad"? I am finishing up the design on a 3-way active and the midrange has been always "padded" by other builders that used the driver for home audio use. I am concerned that I will need to do the same.

Why haven't I EVER seen a build log or even mention of an l-pad for car audio?

If have been thinking about this for too long and my brain is no longer able to figure this out on it's own Are L-pads ever used in a car audio application? I understand their use in a passive setup for home audio but what about an active setup in car audio? Hmmmmm adjusting the amplifier gain will not change sensitivity so an L-pad would be used to attenuate a higher sensitivity driver? Reason I am asking is that it can be difficult to match mid/tweeter/midbass sensitivities for an active 3-way setup. Let's say that the midbass and tweeter sensitivity is 88db 1w/1m (4 ohm). And that the midrange sensitivity is 91db 1w/m (8 ohm). I think 91db 1w/1m@8ohm is the same as 88db 1w/1m@4 ohm (see how I get myself all f'd up!)? Could an L-pad be used to attenuate the midrange if needed? I think there is a simple answer. But like I said my brain is fried from thinking about this for weeks on end

Yep yep. Rant over lets some some ZCON carnage

Wasnt referring to Jon. Did you consider running at 16v? Your battery setup would have to change though.

E Lol you get one jackass on a forum talking shit because they use Korean boards so they must be trash

Ahh, to be young and oblivious... Please tell us, especially SteaveMead and I since we own DC Audio amplifiers, what exactly is "bad", as you imply, about DC Audio? If you have no factual reason, or no experience with DC Audio then stop talking shit.

I picked up my 2.0K on pre-order pricing that was just going on. Hopefully they will ship soon Those DC amps are titties. Are you running your DC's on 16v? That would be sweet!

Nice! I should have never sold my 3kwp and 1000c4

Thanks fellas. Next year I am doing a SQ setup with my XCON 15" sealed. Maybe if my wife-to-be allows it (lmfao) I will compete

As posted above, Nice Work!! Thanks fellas! I am waiting to see pics of what both of you have been working on

Plug it into a wall socket Cool chit bro!

An average "rule of thumb" is to determine if the volume of air behind the baffle equals or exceeds three times the Vas of driver. You would have to figure that out for the Anarchy. Just remember efficiency will suffer on an already low efficient driver, so will power handling. But we are talking upper bass region to midrange frequencies, might be a different ball game. What the hecks, give it a try Ported would be tits!

Here is the review I was speaking of. Take it for what it is. I am the type that has to do it myself to really believe, I think you are too. It sounds like you are going for a "leaky sealed" approach? Maybe that will work well for your setup. Based on the driver QTS small ported or large sealed is best. But again, from what I read, IB did not do so well.

What do you mean open up? Are you going ported from sealed? When I was doing my Anarchy build they are way more efficient ported. If I remember correctly I was building for 0.5-0.7^3ft tuned to 60-70hz. I remember reading from a couple users that the Anarchy mounted IB is very poor.

Thanks bro. I am going to drop an SQ bomb on the Hyundai next year! For 90% of these shots I use a Nikon D7000 with AF-S DX NIKKOR 16-85mm f/3.5-5.6G ED VR lens and SB-800 flash with dome diffuser. Thanks watts09.

I am anxious to see where this goes!

Who has a problem with my post? If there is any misinformation correct me, hater.

Do you like the 2.0K? I have one that I am using for a future build.

I have the relay, remote distribution strip, fuse block and IPod in the glove box. ZED Audio RA mounted in a factory compartment Driver's side at rear passenger foot well Passenger side a rear passenger foot well Fused distribution block for amps and ground block mounted in trunk

A HLCD setup with a pro audio midbass would be great. But that is way over your budget. Since you do not want to build kicks and want to keep things simple consider this option. Use your existing mounting locations with different drivers. The Aura NS6-255-8A 6" Paper Cone Neodymium Magnet Woofer is $11.50 each. You can build a simple sealed enclosure with fiberglass for them using a cut up plastic coffee container. You use the coffee container as the mold. Then 'glass a mounting ring to the fiberglass enclosure to mount the driver to your door. For the tweeter Vifa BC25SC55-04 1" Square Frame Tweeter is $10.00 each. For the amp a Aura RPM4200 RPM Stage 2 Mobile Amplifier 4x50W is $99.98. A processor with TA would be your biggest expense if you choose to go that route.