edouble101

I love PR enclosures in a car. Did you finish this enclosure? Here are two that I built.

One of the requirements, or must-haves, with a loud ground pounder is body bracing. Personally, I'd sand the paint off the exterior roof then weld 1/2" angle iron across the inside of the roof. It wont be easy, you'll need to heat the angle iron with a torch and form it to the contour of the roof. Then you will have to repaint the roof. You came this far...

BassBox 6 Pro can include cabin gain in your design model Once you start doing crazy ish like a wall....

Good stuff, life is to short not to have some fun!

I mounted the GR Research M165-X. The drivers model very well and I had high expectations. I am very pleased after listening to them for 2 hours. I am using a 40wrms amplifier and I have them bandpass from 63hz@24db - 200hz@12db. Acoustically they show no signs of stress although I have not measured distortion and do not plan to. The X65's had significantly less output <100hz and I was forced to cross the sub higher than I wanted. I was not able to blend the sub into the front stage causing it to sound as if it was coming from behind me. Now that I have an upper bass presence in the front stage from the M165-X I was able to lower the sub low pass point and badda-bing-badda-boom I had "up front bass". I find it very interesting that you do not need to level match the subwoofer and midbass drivers to achieve this illusion. I am anxious to get a higher powered amplifier to drive the M165-X's. I feel that their efficiency isn't very high and that they have more to offer with more power. I think these drivers should be a lot more popular for car audio applications. They are $45/ea and I feel a lot of people would be very happy with them. ****Note - The mounting flange on these drivers are excessively large. I think this is purely a cosmetic design for home audio guys. These speakers were a drop-in replacement into the mounting rings I previously made, although the mounting flange was larger than the OD of the mounting rings. Instead of making new rings I simply drilled new holes into the driver flange. The driver is 100% sealed to the mounting ring with the help of 1/4" foam strip between the driver and mounting ring.

Hyundai's are an excellent value! This is my second Hyundai and I am very happy with it. You may not be able to tell by of all of the mods I have lol. Thanks!

Thanks. What I am able to achieve now comes from years of doing it wrong lol. Hell yeah man! This car isn't anywhere near being done. I love the UML22-18 but it has a limit. I plan on switching it out for a Sundown Z4 18 in the same sealed enclosure that I am using now. Based on the data-bass evaluation it should be everything the UML22-18 is, but a lot more of it! I will be using GR Research M165-X midbass drivers. At $45/ea I think these are a steal. The front of the cone is treated but the backside isn't. I am coating the backside with a Rustoleum water proof spray. I am hoping to have these installed tomorrow.

I was not please with the factory halogen head lights. I spent some time researching aftermarket options and decided to retrofit a set of RX350 bi-xenon projectors in the factory headlight assemblies. A special bracket had to be made to hold the RX350 projector. It was designed using a 3D printer. The RX350 and custom bracket on the left (orange) and the stock halogen setup on the right. Completed brackets I'll be using the RX350 for high beams, no use for the halogen high beam. I painted the high beam shroud and turn signal shroud black. Comparison shot between stock and modified. I also added a M&S grill which I painted to match the car's body color. The light output is fantastic. The beam is very wide and clear with no dark spots. The high beam output is bonkers! Low beam High beam Cut-off pic showing the pretty color.

Not audio related but I also installed Ksport coilovers. The front coilovers and rear shock and spring give this Car a great ride. It is firmer than stock but is not jarring. The Car had a decent amount of body roll and is now very level through a turn. Rough bumps are more pronounced and the impact on the chassis is greater but neither is unbearable. I am very happy with this suspension mod! I am anxious to get my 19's on with a lower profile tire.

I've had a few different sub systems in this car already. Here is one a built using a 15" PR. It was too heavy though I designed a 4.5^3ft sealed enclosure for a single 18" sub in the spare tire well. I am currently using a Dayton Audio UML18-22 which is amazing in this install.

I am using an Alpine H800 processor and the controller. The controller is molded into the overhead sunglass compartment with the Alpine logo embossed on the bottom.

For midbass I am currently using Image Dynamics X65's but they'll be switched out soon. Stock.

Morel 502's are used in the dash corner locations. I had to modify the opening to make these 5 1/4" drivers fit. I am using a Dash Mat and I think it looks pretty good in the car. The Dash Mat serves as the "grill" for the coaxial speakers. I need to purchase thin Velcro strips to hold the Dash Mat down in certain areas.

I am using a Pioneer 8100NEX head unit. I fabricate all mt RCA's using Blue Jeans Cable LC-1 coaxial cable. I am using Beldon 5000UP for the midbass and Belden 5002UP speaker wires for the coaxials.

whats up guys. I've had a few build logs on this forum in the past and figured why not one more! This time around it is for my personal vehicle, a 2015 Hyundai Sonata Sport. Love this car. Goals for this build is foremost SQ, especially regarding a wide deep soundstage. Secondly to be able to hit +145db around 30hz. Gotta love dem lows! Concerning amplification, the limiting factor will be a single run of Sky High 1/0. This is over sized cable but will limit current draw to 300 amps max. I want a somewhat usable trunk and will be utilizing the spare tire well for the subwoofer enclosure. Front stage limitations include using stock door panels, stock a-pillars and no kick panel mods. I am going for a "stealth" SQ install. Here is the Sky High 1/0 wrapped in tesa tape going through the factory grommet into the cabin. Battery ground I am using a side rail to as the ground location for the amps.

I've used my computer's soundcard -> Tascam US-122mkii -> Dayton Audio EMM-6 mic. This setup worked very well. I was also able to create a feedback loop with the Tascam to measure impulse response. Impulse response measurement is crucial if you want to accurately set your T/A. The differences in soundstage depth, width and coherency is drastic when T/A is setup based on impulse response. I personally found that tuning for a flat response sounds terrible. You'll be happier if you tune with your ears. The only purpose that I would continue to use RTA software in car audio is for impulse response measurement. I wrote a basic tuning guide for a 2-way front stagea couple years ago, no RTA required. BTW This could easily apply to a 3-way front stage. I attached it to this post. Two-way front stage tune.docx

The Evil 6.5 does have a strong midrage characteristic which coincides with what Aaron Clinton wanted. I am sure this driver will be more efficient than most average midrange drivers and less than ideal in the <125hz area. There's that Hofman's Iron Law. Again, as Aaron Clinton mentioned, the tonality of the driver will be appealing.

It maybe average. I am currently hunting for a midbass driver that has strong output in the upper bass region. I've found that this really helps with blending the sub in to the front stage. I'll be waiting for the reviews to come in!

I am using BassBox 6 Pro. Having the correct SD I was able to calculate the VAS. This brings the f3 down to 126hz. Still very high for a midbass driver. Am I missing something?

I used the T/S parameters that were posted in the Impedance vs Freq graph to plot a curve. The enclosure size I used is 4 cubic feet to simulate a leaky car door, the f3 is 148.6hz. Is this what you are expecting from this driver? Can someone tell me what the correct SD and VAS is for this driver? The units of measurement are misleading.

Are these designed to be a midbass or midrange driver? Will these have a "Made in USA" stamp on them?

I dont think there is any car audio brand that you can not dig up some customer complaints if you search hard enough. My complaints with SI isnt the products but the owner. Although I did have a QC issue with my TM65's I was able to fix them myself. The Mag V3's re-release are fantastic subs. I had two of them and powered them with a Linear Power 4.1 HVS. For under $200 each I cant imagine a better sub for the money. They got down-right brutal. Compared to the two Ethos 12" sound quality is the same but the Ethos have potential for higher output levels but also cost signifcantly more. I also used the HT18, in a 4 cube sealed enclsoure. Very good driver for $149 shipped. It certainly has it's limitaions with a 2.5" coil. I have since replaced the HT18 with a Dayton Audio UM18-22. The Dayton has more output and control (sound quality) for ~$100 more. I am using the Dayton in the same enclsoure as the HT18 and the same amp, a Kicker XS100. I am very impressed with not only the sound quality but the output is very good. I'm guessing that I could hit mid 140's at 35-40hz. No too shabby for 1000wrms and a single sub in a relatively small sealed enclosure. The enclosure is built into my spare tire well. I've lost minimal space in the trunk and can still pound that sound. Both the Mag V3 re-release and the HT18 are discontinued. I sold my Mag's but still have the HT18 in storage for now. I'd go buy the Dayton UM18-22

I havent had any bad dealings with DSS. I havent ran across anyone complaing about DSS either. Stereo Ingerity onthe other hand...

I've used WinISD (free) and Bass Box Pro 6. BBP6 has a lot of fetaures that are useful

After all Fi design and builds SSA woofers which are the best so this sub has to be good