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edouble101

SSA Regular
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Everything posted by edouble101

  1. I am pathetically clueless when it comes to crossover design. I do not understand why a center channel design can not be used as L&R. I could understand this better if there was limited vertical or horizontal dispersion but with cone/dome drivers I do not see that as an issue. How would a crossover design for a center channel speaker not allow the same design to be used as L&R?
  2. I will have a toast in your honor tonight Happy bday bro
  3. Google "flocked dash" or "how to flock a dash". Any panel you can apply glue to can be flocked.
  4. edouble101 replied to stevemead08's topic in Videos
    Are you happy with it?
  5. I would flock the hell out of it.
  6. Lol hell yeah man. Those kicks are ridiculous. I also should have specified that the picture I posted was to represent a mid/tweet a-pillar install NOT those kicks.
  7. Overkill ... No way. Mid and tweet combo'd together is better than mid and midbass together.
  8. Reason for thinking of running the tweets there, would be because i have read that midbass in the doors can be good, but even with a lot of deadener, might still get rattles. T/A processor i'm hoping to pick up first, would be a Pioneer Dex-P99rs. Sounds like you are dropping a lot of cash on equipment. Dont skimp on the install. The only way to run a midbass in the doors would be to build a door pod. Are you 100% stuck on mounting the tweeter in the a-pillar? How big are these kicks going to be with a mid and a midrange mounted in them. The Peerless 830883 has a 7.18" OD and the Dayton RS75-4 is almost 3" OD. Pretty f'n big! Consider this. Mounting the midbass in the kicks and both the tweeter and mid in the a-pillar. Like this:
  9. I wouldnt run the tweeters on axis in the a-pillars. More than likely they will be much louder due to the fact that the path length will be much shorter than the midrange and midbass speaker. You will certainly have to test placement of the tweeter and find the sweet spot. You will more than likely need a heavy dose of T/A to get the soundstage and imaging right. Do you have a T/A processor? If you do not have a good processor you may want to consider running the midrange and tweeter in the kickpanel and the midbass in the door. This mounting option has more potential to image and have a good soundstage than what a-pillar mounting the tweeter does. I have a JL Audio 13w6 and it sounds very good. Definitely is not a SPL subwoofer, SQ for sure. From my experience, generally, a 15" ported will be louder than two 12" sealed. But that is very dependent on the drivers being tested and a boat load of other things. If you want to go sealed check out the Fi Q with the high QTS option. If you have the room for a 15" ported than you have the room for two 12" ported. I would go with two 12" ported over a single 15" ported. Again this is based off of my experiences, I had both.
  10. Good shit mang. Wonder how long it will take for the t-tops to blow off
  11. Badass Stefan. I am glad to hear that you like your new setup.
  12. Bone Thugs has a bunch Best intro ever
  13. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ws3Ks0FGxYM
  14. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LMFqh_tiHoQ http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=K4wNYYIyMKU I freak'n love this song
  15. I love a kick ass song intro. Especially when I am giving a demo Post up your favorites! Here are a few of my favorite: Great demo song
  16. umm no.. thats not how to properly do rear fill. the op doesn't need rear fill, he needs a proper front stage. You clearly have no idea what you are talking about. Actually you dont, you stated how you want to limit the rear fill to speakers that dont play high pass frequencies. Then you totally go against that statement and suggest a sealed back midrange driver . Dont do any speakers in the rear deck unless you seal off trunk or your just gonna damage those speakers. For now dont waste any money on rear speakers until you set your system up and give it a listen. Like I stated about keep factory speakers in there on radio power and you will be fine. If your set on changing them out then you can get a pair of components for the front and coaxials for the back. Lol. Another clueless post.
  17. Holy fawk thats a shit ton of speakers
  18. Nice looking alt. Let us know how it works for you.
  19. umm no.. thats not how to properly do rear fill. the op doesn't need rear fill, he needs a proper front stage. You clearly have no idea what you are talking about.
  20. I love a good soundstage. I am more SQ orientated than SPL and I do have rear fill. I like a slight presence of rear fill to add a little ambiance. You do want to keep your rear fill frequencies limited to low passed signals in the midrange. Higher frequencies are more locatable and can pull your soundstage behind you. Since you want a simple install for your rear fill I recommend sealed back drivers for the rear deck install. Goldwood GM-85/4 5" Heavy Duty Sealed Back Midrange 4 Ohm from parts-express would work well for your rear fill. You can buy or make adapter plates to mount them without modification to the factory speaker location.
  21. Now that you had this installed for a couple weeks, how does it sound? Good imaging and is the soundstage high? Was the displeasing sound the tweeter?
  22. Tall surrond on the 18" :
  23. Goodluck getting your shit back bro. Sucks even more to have your ride all tore up

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