edouble101

If your subs are ICON 12D2 then you will need to wire your subs like this because it sounds like your amp is not 0.5 ohm stable:

More like some SA-15s! YES!!! Tryin' to get there, but running into resistance with the wife. Somebody wanna take her off my hands?? Sounds like you and I need to send out ladies on vacation together Mostly every free chance I get is "do you want to go....", "want to watch.....", "I thought we could.....", uhhhhhhh damnit I think lol. She is a doll, it just gets frustrating to get garage time in. The SAv.2 are going to be killer!!!! I am with ya. As soon as I get my recreational vehicle I am doing a wall of some sort with lots-o SA's! Yep, wouldn't trade my lady for nothin'-Hard to find a good one. V2s will be out before I can get these V1s installed. Yall come get mine before I sell her bitchy ass on ebay. Hahahahahahaha, funny chit man!!!!!!!!!

Wow! The paint is stunning! Excellent stitch work!

Go with a component set for front stage, no rear fill. I never heard IDQ subs, a JL W3 would sound great.

:dancing: :dancing: :woot: :woot: :slayer: :foshizzle: Sounds badass!!!!

It is an expensive line. I have heard numerous SSX's and I was always very impressed. I havent seen any used SSX's for sale.

right on, i will tackle the paint once the build is complete...few other attributes i want to address all at the same time with the finish, i am thinking about using the 100.4 for the four midbass and the 100.2 for the midrange..... skipping the tweeter sounds like a good approach, easy to add later if i feel lost without it. good advice bro! I have been dreaming of a front stage setup that consists of one of these Selenium 12MB3P 12" mounted in each door for midbass. And one of these Audience A3 3" Full Range Driver mounted in the dash corners. I am sure it would sound amazing and get ridiculously loud The Selenium's are more efficient than the Audience's but if crossed over correctly that could be beneficially for some added midbass bump. I am anxious to see what route you choose. I am definitely doing a two way setup in a future build, hopefully with he drivers listed above.

As far as the foam on the paint, I would try to buff it out with a light cutting compound. You may need to re apply some clear coat then buff again. Based on your tastes a big 8"-12" midbass driver in each door along with a couple fullrange drivers (no dedicated tweeters) in the dash corners or a-pillars should make you happy

Sweet ride. Unwanted foam leakage sucks, I feel you pain. Figure out the front stage plans? What's up with the icon pamphlets? Team SSA?

DC Power makes the 270XP Looks like a factory alternator with a Mechman voltage regulator

Thank you for fixing the alternator. Maybe I will have consistently 14.4-14.7 voltage now as well. Like I said on the phone if you have a customer with any questions about this install please contact me and I will help any way I can.

If there was one that worked you would know it because everybody would be using it. A finely tuned diet does wonders.

With my stock alt my lights do not flicker. It charges at 14.3-13.8v. With my DC Power alt it charges at 14.9-14.7v. When bass hits my lights flicker. I believe this is because of the higher charging voltage.

really Do you think I would mention it out of ignorance? I guess those phase switches on subwoofer amplifiers are only meant to be used at low volume

Sounds to me like you are stuck on selling the Skar's and going sealed, so I will not offer my two cents on that. Based on price and power the SA-12 is a great option. If it was me I would wait for the v.2. Wait, aren't the v.1 sold out?

My buddy had this problem with his 2008 SRT8. He removed his dome light and when he shuts his vehicle off he taps the bulb terminals with a diode (I think it is a diode).

^^ this.... I want some... I need for my rear battery... Hook it up and how much? I'll come pick up if needed ... Thanks. This is one component of four that will make my battery distribution center. I am making these for function, I hate loose confections and sloppy wires. I would love to make chit for you guys. The offer really is flattering. I have limited use of company tools for my personal use. Once I get my own mill I will gladly make anything you want Contact ToolMaker, he CNC's all his parts. If you do not know how to get ahold of him let me know.

Since your trunk isn't sealed if you fired your subs back it would probably sound better and be louder

Have you ever tried sub/port back? Ever try running the sub out of phase to help get the bass up front?

Thanks. These are nothing compared to ToolMaker's CNC cut parts

Looks great!

I started working on my passenger door. It is going much faster than the driver's door. My DC Power 270XP stooped working again DC Power is going to replace the voltage regulator. I started working on my batery terminals for the underhood battery. The terminals are designed for two runs of 1/0 to the rear. They are not completed yet. The terminals are cut out of aluminum. I used a Bridgeport mill. The blue 1/0 directly secured to the terminal will be coming from the alternator. I used two 1/4" set screws to secure the bare wire. One set screw never holds the wire in place good enough. Dual 300a fuses will be used.

Thanks Kyle. I called Rob yesterday and left him a voicemail.

Clean design :

April 25th 2011 was when the alternator failed the first time after being installed for a month. Now 4 months later it failed again. Does this alternator have a bad voltage regulator?????