Tirefryr

Just reinstall the stock one and use your mechman you have now as the second alt. Call them up and see if they'll R&R it and install a self-exciting regulator. Shouldn't cost more than $100; far cheaper than a new alternator.

The Mechman is your second alt your adding? if so, call them up and ask them if you can get a self-exciting unit in exchange. An alternator needs current to "turn on." With a self-exciting reg, it's basically jumpered internally to the battery post meaning there is always current going to the "turn on" of the regulator, so it essentially turns itself on. No other wiring is needed. You just bolt the alt in, hook up the battery cable and you're good to go. Your stock alternator uses computers or just different wiring to control the regulator, warning lights, voltage gauge, etc. Since you are keeping the stock alt, the computer will be satisfied there and use the stock alt to handle it's duties. You don't need any of that stuff on the accessory alt, so self-exciting is the way to go.

You don't want the secondary alt to communicate with the computer, only the stock unit. The ECM will not be able to control two units, only one, and if he tries to splice the new alt in with the old, it will cause issues. Any GOOD mechanic will know this and would have told you just to get a self-exciter.

What you need is a sefl-exciting alternator, or get a self-exciting regulator for the alt you currently have. The only wire needed is the positive to the post on the back.

He jumped on another company's bandwagon and left the forum.

It's fine. As long as it plays, leave it alone.

That's awesome!

You are only relating their use to competition though, which I knew, but the thread creator might not understand.

How old is he? I want to take my son, but he just turned 4 and I doubt he can sit and watch an inning let alone an entire game.

Send her my way. Please wash her first though.

So because people use them for competition with a straight vent means they can't be used for anything else?

Why do you say this? I've cut them at angles before and glued them back together with no issues.

And if you didn't know, it can be welded and melted with acetone.

You can get it from USplastics, Grainger, etc. as well. Check ebay first. I am always coming across large sheets on the cheap there.

Impedance has nothing to do with loudness. Being 2ohm only means it will draw more current than a 4 ohm driver.

Fuck.

I don't want my son to grow up.

OT, but do you have any pics or a thread about the turbo build? I'm not really into imports, but like fast cars and would like to see it.

The whining is a bearing issue. Either a bad batch of bearings or your belt tension/mounting is too tight.

SPLAT!

I'm not really into the older stuff unless it's a complete restomod.

IT's Texas.

I had to drop my suspension pretty low to get the actual spring out. there was a lot of shit to get out. I can remove the rear springs on any Mustang produced from 79 on within 15 minutes. You need some more practice.

I did it in 15 minutes on jack stands, but the Buick had a lot of room to work around and big old man springs.

Gonna through some juice at the Camry.