Tirefryr

Sorry man, not hip on your lingo. LOL!

15 course meals? I am doing life all wrong!

You're familiar with South Park?

Don't sweat that shit! Take it as a form of flattery. It's fear and jealousy driving them. I get it every time I switch jobs. When the new guy comes in and blows out the vets, they don't know how to react.

So yeah, real man shit here. I have a prostate issue. I was prescribed some meds. HOLY SHIT! WORST THING EVER! I'm supposed to take it before bed. So I have, for the past three nights. I've got 20 minutes sleep in the past 4 days now. I have NO idea how I am still awake. I feel as if I'm not within my body any longer actually. It's the oddest feeling ever, but this shit is killing me. Aside from the insulin, I don't think I've ever taken medication that has worked for me. The only thing I can think of that did anything was Xanax, and even that was hit or miss. Fucked up shit.

I started some spring cleaning today and noticed the mids on my old Baby Advent IIs had blown out the surrounds, so I figured I'd throw the Evil 6.5s in their place and have some fun. Now, these are in a simple bass reflex at 9.1L. There's a simple 1st order crossover running up to 6K, so the woofer is wide open down low and starts rolling 6dB at 6K. It's a really simple design. These are being powered by an old Pioneer Elite receiver rated at 40WPC at 6 ohms. Standing DCR on them was 7.12, so we're in business. Now, I didn't expect much as this was just a WTF experiment. I fired them up and was immediately blown away with the midrange. It's generic, but damn, I've not had a driver with midrange detail like this aside from the Revelators. Now, IIRC, I paid $150-$180 PER DRIVER for those 15 or so years ago. Obviously the Evil 6.5 is not in that league money-wise, but my ears don't distinguish price, just sound. The midrange is phenomenal. I believe these are marketed as midbass drivers. IMO, that's misleading. I had some trouble with these down low even in these small enclosures. The drivers reached their mechanical limits at 20 watts right around 58 Hz. I cut the EQ from that point on and they shined on and took all 40 watts without issue. This may be a problem for some, but this is right about where I have subs taking over. This driver is seeming to be the perfect fit for me. I have decided to vent them in-car, so this little tests just confirms what I've suspected. I'll gain even more cone control with the vented enclosure, so I don't see the mechanical limitations being relevant at all. They'll be safely crossed above that point any ways. But just note, if you're running these in a door without the benefit of the vent or crossover, don't get crazy! Another thing to note is the efficiency. I had trouble with the volume control on the Pioneer. The mylar tweeters in the Advents are known for their efficiency, and the Evil 6.5s hung right in there with them. There was really no need to run more than 20 watts here. I realize the automotive environment is a different beast, but these things are loud, EASILY! Off-axis response came with negligible difference to my ears, but those phase caps really liven up the experience on-axis. It's like frosting on a brownie! Just lovely! I'm going to play with these some more in the Advent enclosures, but I can't wait to get them in the truck! I'll leave this with a couple simple pics. Here's one of the bad woofers. Time for a change. And here they are with the Evils.

So I ended up ordering some drivers after talking to an old friend who owned a shop many years ago. I went with SWS 12s from Earthquake. Hopefully I can get an enclosure fabbed up next weekend and give them a thrashing, but pics will have to suffice for now. Here they are next to the Evil mids. identical mounting depths. And next to an OG Gcon12

So I had to pull my pistol on a guy today. . . Three days ago, I had a guy try to jump in my work truck as soon as I got in. I yelled at him and he quickly ran off. Today, I was at a food joint (I had just dropped Gavin off at his mom's), when as soon as I hopped back into my car, a guy came up with one hand behind his back and the other on my door handle trying to hop inside. I asked WTF he wanted and he just kept trying to get in. I pointed something at him and he threw his hands up and walked away and got into a black Jeep. I was lucky both times as both vehicles are old, so they only unlock one door at a time. I know some others unlock them all at once or with two clicks on the fob. Parents, please be extra cautious and everyone be aware of your surroundings at ALL times!

I hear that. JL makes great stuff though, so I'm sure if you call them, they will take care of you.

Make sure you're in-phase. Also, call JL! Their tech department is GREAT!

By the way, Fuck Oakley!

Got my Bassshades in the mail today and they already got stolen. Apparently Gavin needs them more than I do because "Dad only wears Oakley."

No he didn't. He just let us know his frustration in shopping 3 days ago. Come on now.

Hexibass does their designs. Hell, he may even own the company, but that dudes smart AF! He knows his shit!

I was just referring to the enclosure.

You mean you're not done yet?

What? https://www.thepunctuationguide.com/

Then by all means do it.

Do you feel you NEED them? I'd start with a pad and shoe upgrade and go from there.

I've done suede, fabric, and sheet vinyl.

Do you have specs on the driver? I get 5.86 cubes gross with a 33.12Hz tune with the 8" vent with either side flared. I can plot an anechoic environment and measure vent mach, but I need driver specs.

Forget the rear speakers. You're not sitting in the rear and you don't want to pull the image back, so don't even bother. I'll start with where I would start. I would upgrade my wire to the best I could afford. That would be my first upgrade. DO the 1/0, and yes, you can and should be using welding cable. It's just the same, if not better, than car audio cable, but no fancy jacket. In fact, I'd say it's more durable. The insulator on welding cable is made to stand up to being constantly dragged across a floor, run over by machinery, and to live in a nasty chemical environment. It's almost always cheaper, and you'll get a true AWG cable as well. As far as the subs, personally, I would keep the one JL and build a vented enclosure for it. Follow the JL spec box and tweak from there if you want. If you find that's not enough, then go ahead and add another. You can tackle the amp conflict at that time. I will say, the NVX amps are pretty good for their price point. When it comes to sound deadening, well, that's not something you want to spend your money on in a budget capacity. There are too many "cheap" alternatives these days, and many of the companies are just buying copies of what has been done right, but they are not the best copy. Once upon a time, the best course of action was to just cover your vehicle in as much dampener as possible and that was it. SDS came along and revolutionized the game, and many have copied him, and it has really helped, but you still have "cheap" brands that will stick with the marketing standpoint that they are cheaper so you can use more and more is better. This just simply is not the case. I suggest heading over to the Sound Deadener Showdown website while it's still up and getting some knowledge. Lexus is very good from a NVH perspective, so you should not need much in the way of noise control.

Anyone have any input on E-class wagons of about 5-10 year vintage?

You can't just pull the front shaft either. The computer will go all sorts of stupid when the rear tires start thumping and the fronts are standing still.

You mean no AWD?