Tirefryr

I can speak from experience and tell you, it will quickly eat at you and you will begin to see your "economy" choice as the wrong choice.

I have a German turd for you.

If he didn't get his answer five years ago, I don't think he needs it now. Please check dates before posting.

Auto X has to be a bitch for peripheral. Road racing, you can easily see the course. I get tripped up by the cones just watching them.

I eat like shit.

About 20lbs.

Yeah, I'm a fucking twig.

You'll be good. I have about 3% body fat and I float. Of course, I'm always bloated, so that may be it.

I think Justin said it best. LOL!

Sorry, I missed this. The tweets I have won't go much below 2500 so they may not be good for you, but you're welcome to them if you'd like. Just PM me your shipping info and i"ll get them out and link you to the specs.

Smooth and sterile screams flat to me. Could you possibly just need some EQ? Of course, that might just compound the issue and strain the driver even more. I have something you can try that is a compromise between a larger format and a smaller tweet if you're interested.

I drove the Lincoln tonight cuz I was going to this chick's house. She said her roommate was home, so I figured I could fuck her in the Town Car if we couldn't be alone. Turns out the roommate is a freak and likes to listen. Huh?! I get outside to leave and my fucking drive tire is flat and my jack and spare are in the pole barn. WTF? I get around the corner to the gas station and it's $2.50 to use the damn air compressor. Fucking insane.

You can build the enclosure smaller;it will effectively be a heavier spring on the driver, but with a vented enclosure it's or that simple. This is especially true when you factor in unloading. When a driver runs below tuning, the vent unloads and the waveforms cancel. It's effectively become a free-air driver at that point and you're now at the mercy of the driver mechanically and electrically. You're enclosure is no longer a factor. The ONLY way to figure out what may work fit you is testing. There are far too many variables to accurately model this. It you. Let me ask you this. . . Why are you wanting to "overpower?"

Your answer is in your question, or lack-there-of. You're reaching the thermal and/or mechanical limits of your driver in your application. The ONLY way to remedy this is to find the root and fix it. Change the driver, the application, the power, or the user.

A little off-topic, but I was searching CSS for their full rangers as I remember them being very good. Apparently CSS has been bought out and the first thing on their new page is explaining that they have to raise prices. Ironic. Anyways, I've read fabulous things about Markaudio full rangers.

Honestly, I'd run a full range driver or. . . . How open are you to making new pods? I've used and recommended them MANY times because of their awesome versatility and ease at manipulation, the Bohlender Graebener Neo planars I've used both the Neo3 and Neo8s and damped the rear to tailor them to the needs of each application. The Neo8 is kinda large, but it can dig down to 1200Hz and stay composed all the way through audible range. There's just nothing like planars or ribbons for me, and I try to incorporate them into every install.

No, as long as the unit de-energizes when the faceplate is removed. You could just as easily shut the unit off before removing the face just to be certain.

Yeah, we're dealing with 90s here. I usually start growing my hair out in October, but it's been so chilly the past 3 weeks, I started early. I was half-tempted to shave yesterday, but I know the moment I do, it will turn cold again, so fuck it.

I've never rebuild one. I've always found them so cheap, I just replaced them. Of course, all the mechanical pumps I've replaced have all been on trucks, so there's always been plenty of room to monkey around in there, so I've never even thought about size concerns. I've just never seen the point in electric pumps for carbs unless for racing where you need the positive fuel cutoff.

You won't have any headgasket issues on the Buick, but the intake manifold is a different story. The Series II had a fucked up EGR design that melted the plastic. They came out with a revised manifold that fixed the problems, but it wasn't until well into the 2000s. The manifold gaskets were a similar story, again with revised gaskets coming out later. That should be the only issues that should arise for you, and if it's supercharged, you should be golden as they used a different gasket.

Coolant flush reminds me of headgaskets, which reminds me of Northstars, which reminds me of your Caddy, which is still your avatar. Weird how my mind works.

You REALLY need a meter. You can find them for $5. Seriously. A decent one at Sears will run $25. It's an invaluable tool. This is the ONLY way we can help you. We NEED to know the voltage on the red wire. What vehicle is this in? Many newer vehicles communicate(operate) via CANBUS and the red wire which in years past commonly provided a switched +12VDC in many cases now is 5VDC. This could be your issue, but we won't know until you are able to measure the voltage on that wire.

Mechanical pump. KISS.

The Aura will require an enclosure or electronic cone control of some sort if you want to cross it over that low. I speak from experience here. Also, it rolls off steeply in the upper range (especially off-axis), so you may find yourself needing a small dome tweet raise the level. The Dayton ND20s work GREAT for this!

Hi-pass means the frequencies ABOVE your setpoint will be audible. Low-pass works the opposite; all frequencies below the setpoint will be your audible frequency band. A bandpass setting includes both a high and low crossover, effective creating a pass band within the setpoints: for instance the lowpass will be set at 1KHz, so everything below that will be audible up until you reach your highpass setpoint, such at, let's say 50Hz. So your effective passband or frequency range of said output would be 50Hz-1KHz. Examples: Lowpass set at 80 will filter frequencies above 80Hz while passing those below. Highpass set at 80 will filter frequencies below 80Hz while passing those above. This is a very generic answer and does not take slope or filter type into effect. You could easily get lost there with effective power filtering, which is basically what the crossover is doing, and also phase shift. We wont begin to get into that and you really need not worry about it unless you are competing.