jokers10

Looks awesome. What is the size difference between this and the new 1500?

I know different parts of my car vibrate at different frequencies. At 26Hz, my steering wheel looks like it is about to fall off. A little higher, and my wipers dance. I am sure it is all about resonant frequencies.

http://www.soundsolutionsaudio.com/forum/forum/48-sundown-audio/

I did a lot of research on these when I was first thinking about installing them in my Jetta. I was looking for a solution that would have good output with a small footprint. What I found out however was that the required space for these are so small, and the tuning frequencies are so low, that the port takes up so much space, (internally or externally) that it would be wiser to go with a larger speaker. Which is what I ended up doing. I now have two slot ported SA-10s in the same box space that would have been needed for 1 SA-8. Once you get the air space required for about 4 SA-8s you start getting a short enough port that most of the box won't be port. In a SUV or extended cab truck, I would probably go t-line if it modeled out ok. That way the footprint would be long and skinny and not interfere with too much cargo area. So if you are limited on power, but not on space, this might be the ideal woofer. I wish they were optimized for use in a sealed enclosure.

Burn them all in a fire, or do some reading and educate yourself a little bit. This attitude of not looking for answers is way too common. I find it pretty gratifying if I find an issue I can't work out immediately, do some research and answer my own questions. The knowledged gained from that self education excursion sticks with you a little bit more than someone saying 4 ohms. Burn.....Burn.....Burn

I like the idea of this, but the noobs will still fail, and not read/understand what this means. It is hard to tell someone who has no knowledge of the car stereo hobby that he/she needs to know what type of sound they want to acheive, before they start picking components, much less getting them to buy into the idea of investing $2000 on quality equipment would be cheaper than the mistakes made by purchasing Best Buy gear.

Yep, as Sean said go for the 4 SA-15s if you have the room. More cone area will net you greater results over more power, or more motor strength. Once you have the maximum cone area you are willing to sacrifice space for in your application, you can start upgrading motors and power to get more excursion.

Looks like the sub was dropped. Hopefully a shipping issue? Edit: Hope they take care of you.

I only asked because I couldn't hear any mechanical noise over the backing soundtrack.

Is there a greater chance of lead slap with the leads not being sewn into the spider?

Will do. I am one of those that don't like showing anything off until I am completely done. Just sent you a PM about your other question.

Hey Trevor, I used my DD-1 and CC-1 to set my gains and filters. Really quick and easy to setup. I have a thread on another forum that will help you locate a DD-1 and CC-1. I will PM you the link.

Coming together nicely.

That was going to be my suggestion as well.

Awesome work Trevor. I have all my pictures ready for my build log, but I need to finish my amp rack, and fit the remote gain in a panel in my dash. I have had the time to play around with mine now, and holy crap it hits. All I have to do though is turn it down a bit, and it sounds absolutely wonderful. By far the best sounding vehicle I have done so far. I can't wait to replace the factory amp for my door components.

Also removing the rear angle and kerfing would have allowed the box to be wider/narrower to give you more trunk room as well.

I see why you did it, and wanted to do something similar, but figured it was too much of a pain in the butt to make a real difference. You matched the seat angle so the box could sit against it. This causes the top of the port to be too close to the back wall, and the bottom of the port to be too far away. massive amounts of kerfing looks wicked, but I don't think it added to the sound quality/output of the box. Build quality looks outstanding, but it appears that the time could have been better spent calculating a rectangular box with rectangular ports, and you would have ended up with a better sounding/louder box.

I just completed my trunk build with the same type of equipment. I did a SAX-1200d with two SA-10D4s. The box was designed by PWK. It is a slot ported enclosure tuned to 34Hz. It really shakes the pakage tray on the lows, but the bass response is real smooth throughout the entire bass range. I am very happy with the sound from my Jetta.

I find myself aggreeing with Stefan again. Cone area over power any day of the week. Actually I would go one step further and do two 12" SSA Dcons with that Sundown 1000d, especially if you can use the whole trunk.

Can I get a bigger dustcap on that 10? I see just a bit too much cone for my tastes. lol

Looking good Trevor. I finally got everything installed in my Jetta earlier today. Still gotta tune it, but it sounds good so far.

Actually Sundown amps are made in Korea, and Sundown subs are made in China.

I like the way the new system looks ands acts, but it doesn't really work. Seems like the same stuff just sits there with no real movement.

Should have just plugged it into a wall socket so the video would have been around 30 seconds. Oh wait MTX already did that.

I paid $75 for a harbor freight router, and used one of the edge guide rods to turn it into an infinitely variable (7"-20") circle jig. Maybe I need to post a video of that.