pmureika

Except stetsom amps. If you hit 15 volts they go into protect. Most new Ford and GM products will go over 15 volts.

OK lol i just wanted to be sure i didnt have something messed up somewhere and it wasnt just my amp. So basically, i need another amp to kill/reduce the heat is what im getting? Looks like its time to start saving for the endo i want... Like others said first make sure your install is up to par proper power wire, solid battery and fuse connections at all terminals, good clean ground, and amp settings. Then you can probably draw the conclusion that it’s just the amps nature to run hot like I have from installing and using these amps. You said you never drop below 12 but that is still enough voltage drop to heat an amp like that up with ease. I have the 600.2 and when bridged at 4ohms, with my electrical it never drops below 13.8 from a 14volt start and it still gets a good bit warm after about a half hour of heavy beating, but that’s to be expected. I have wired it down to 1ohm before (its not 1ohm stable of course) and it only takes a couple minutes of high volume bass heavy songs to make the heat sink hot enough to “cook eggs” before it protects, even with very low voltage drop. One difference I believe between a cheap quality and good quality amp is that the designers of the lower quality amps seem to try and squeeze the most power they can out of the already cheap parts used in the amp, pushing them to their limit to do close to rated power. This is how you end up with a cheap amp running very hot and failing quicker than a better quality amp overtime. Most quality use internal components that can make the rated power without putting that much stress on the components used, making them more efficient/cooler running than cheaper amps. I’m not downing our amps in anyway because they serve their purpose when you have realistic expectations of them, but there is much better to be had out there. Most new amps like 14.4 volts.

IMO you shouldn't replace but add to the factory wires. Just in case it messes with a computer somehow- keeps it safe And add fuses to the new wire from the alternator.

You could try it but 80 amps itsn't much if you want to run a 1500wrms plus amp. The more batteries the better it will be till they run low. Charging every night will help.

2 subs are better than one, but do you have the electrical to backup the amp. Big three,extra battery or batteries and maybe a alternator. i have an alternator, how do i put 2 alternators in one car? and have access to batteries that my dad has in cars he doesnt drive. also, the alternator is from my 1984 fiero, will that still work in my toyota? it will be in my solara, i almost always have one back seat down so it allows it to vent into the cabin. i bought one of the two subs so far. but i was concrete on getting sundowns. its powered by a JL 500/1 amp, in the JL bass wedge box. i think the box is good for now. I am holding off on buying the amp, and am still waiting to think of a good design for the box. [ O [] O ] [ [] O O ] what box would be a better? normal port, or L port? L port or aero port. If you want to run that much power to sa-12 make the box smaller and tune higher for better spl. On the alternator just buy one after market 300 amp mechman. You can find them in the SSA store. How many amps does the oem put out? I would only use aftermarket agm batteries if they are going inside the car.

2 subs are better than one, but do you have the electrical to backup the amp. Big three,extra battery or batteries and maybe a alternator.

"The Big 3" is replacing the factory wires from the alt to battery, power, and ground wire with thicker wire, typically 0 gauge. There are plenty of write-ups and suggestions on wire choices. One of the vendors on this site is even running a sale, of course you have to do the labor. Try the search function, some people have luck with it, others not so much. Try googling it!!!

I dont think so but you might try.

You have to be kidding. Read the directions.

What the fin is the problem.

We need alot more info as to what you want?

If you have d2's you can run the amp at .05, 2.0 or 8ohms. 1 is not a optionAlso need to know the wire sizes. which would include the big three.

Yeah now you need to find a more powerful most likely more expensive amp. if your doing a 2 driver build use d4's. also if your gonna go with 750-1000w per sub i'd stay on the smaller side of enclosure volume. But he said he bought sa-12 d2 subs so I was giving him options on that.

Cool can't wait to see the numbers.

Have you had it on a spl meter yet. If yes what were the numbers?

Are you going for spl or sq? Why do you want to run so much power when it wont gain you yhat much in loudness?Yes on the cubes. One sheet of mdf and a box designer to help you get the size right.

750 rms for each sub is plenty. You won't gain much in loudness by going to 1000rms each.Plus you need to find one that will do 1500 rms @ 2ohms.

What ohms are you using on that amp?

That is not a walmart amp. I had a IA 20.1 and it also ran very hot unless you keep the voltage near 13.8. Also could be something wrong with it. That link you have up there is a walmart amp made by crunch! I thought you meant the IA's were getting hot. That cheap crunch just might get very hot.

Have you let Mark or Aaron at SSA know?

to the SSA forum!

He has a site on this forum.Look in custom fabricators

DC creations can help.