Deto1992

Beat you to it I was aware that the drivers favor the higher tuning but I thought it would drop way off on the low end (which it still does). I guess I should just build another standard ported box but go with a tuning around 38 hz? I cant imagine that a higher tuning would revive my low end, maybe Im just better off buying a new driver thats a bit more accurate? A new driver would be in your favor, just in the nature of the AQ woofer.. It's meant to get loud and in the higher frequency range. What kind of power are you running to your current woofer? There are many good budget drivers, any kind of budget you may have? I was powering it at .5 ohm with a hifonics bxi1608d, 1600wrms at 1 ohm. I could rewire the setup for a 2ohm load in which it will see 1100wrms according to hifonics. Maybe that could clean up the sound? Im sure that quality is lost as impedance decreases. Also, I emailed Kevin with Skar Audio about his trade in program. He was willing to trade me a vvx 12 for some of my unused equipment. I pondered the thought of making the trade, buying an additioncal vvx 12 and building a new box. I could get two dual 4s and wire them down to a 1ohm load on the amp so they would see around 800w a piece. I also thought about running just the single vvx 12 since it would cost me nothing but now that I have experienced the output from the hdc3, I dont think I would be satisfied with a single vvx 12. I don't think that's a bad idea at all.. if you have old stuff laying around.. might as well get something good while the deal lasts! I'm trying to understand what you're not getting out of your current woofer? Is it output issues at lower frequencies? I'm not quite sure what you need or you think you're losing by running the AQ woofer. Im losing output at the lower frequencies, like you stated. The sub hits a 45 hz note with glory but 30 hz...not so much. Do you think I should just wait it out and see if the low end comes to life?

Beat you to it I was aware that the drivers favor the higher tuning but I thought it would drop way off on the low end (which it still does). I guess I should just build another standard ported box but go with a tuning around 38 hz? I cant imagine that a higher tuning would revive my low end, maybe Im just better off buying a new driver thats a bit more accurate? A new driver would be in your favor, just in the nature of the AQ woofer.. It's meant to get loud and in the higher frequency range. What kind of power are you running to your current woofer? There are many good budget drivers, any kind of budget you may have? I was powering it at .5 ohm with a hifonics bxi1608d, 1600wrms at 1 ohm. I could rewire the setup for a 2ohm load in which it will see 1100wrms according to hifonics. Maybe that could clean up the sound? Im sure that quality is lost as impedance decreases. Also, I emailed Kevin with Skar Audio about his trade in program. He was willing to trade me a vvx 12 for some of my unused equipment. I pondered the thought of making the trade, buying an additioncal vvx 12 and building a new box. I could get two dual 4s and wire them down to a 1ohm load on the amp so they would see around 800w a piece. I also thought about running just the single vvx 12 since it would cost me nothing but now that I have experienced the output from the hdc3, I dont think I would be satisfied with a single vvx 12.

Beat you to it I was aware that the drivers favor the higher tuning but I thought it would drop way off on the low end (which it still does). I guess I should just build another standard ported box but go with a tuning around 38 hz? I cant imagine that a higher tuning would revive my low end, maybe Im just better off buying a new driver thats a bit more accurate?

Right now, Im running an audioque hdc3 12 in a 2.2 cubic ft box ported at 30 hz. Im losing alot of sound quality with this box and I was wondering if there are any specific box types (other than sealed) in which I may be able to retain a bit more quality. Im aware that the hdc3 is known for poor sound quality but Id rather not purchase a new driver at this time. I know anybody could tell me that it varies from car to car or something general like that but Im just looking for anyone with some experience who may be able to help me out. Open to any suggestions! Thanks

I dont even want to think about how much that will cost you in gas money if its gonna be your daily driving car.

haha. If you wanna thump just for your own personal pleasure then go ahead and buy yourself a beetle. But, if you are looking to go to comps and get some respect, might wanna rethink. If you search craigslist you can probably find a great deal on another car. I picked up my 2001 infiniti from some old dude on craigslist for $1800. Sure, it had 100,000 miles but it works for me. Good luck!

Why are there socks below your "test fit"??? You nasty freak!! Now hurry the hell up!! the anticipation is buildingg hahahha

Well right now I have the sub mounted in my rear dash. Figuratively, you could say that my trunk is the enclosure. I was planning on running it as a single midbass speaker out of the back dash. My mids are lacking a little bit and I thought that this could be a quick way to add a little depth.

yeah Im sure the CVR would. What is the general frequency range for midbass? The cvr specified range is 30-500 hertz.

Is it possible to tune an amp so that an 8inch sub will act as a midbass driver? I have a kicker cvr 8 and a fosgate prime 250 and I was wondering if I could put the equipment to use and delay my purchase of midbass drivers until I have sufficient funds.

doesnt that surpass my to-be-determined budget lol haha yeah most likely man lol. CHeck the vids on the forum somebody, I dont recall who, hit like a 160 and 30hz behind the c pillar with 48 sa-10s. But on a more serious note, I didnt realize you already had that much equipment. I wish it was as easy as to come on the forum ask how something is done than do it. Unfortunately, it isnt and you might have to resort to the testing that you are trying to avoid. Like i said, unless you have an epiphany about a certain install you should do, you are probably goin to have to test several and see what installs yield the highest scores.

I have no experience with either battery to be honest with you. I have heard good things about the deka intimidators i mentioned before and they are more affordable than most other batts ive seen. Maybe you wanna check them out? Also, I can just ground out my battery to any part of my chassis right? it doesnt have to be to the stock ground point?

Exactlyyy. If you are set on walling it off than you should definitely go with the btl even two if you can afford a second sub and amp. well not only do i not have enough money for another btl 18, i odnt have the power. i had 1 12" mtx 9500 on my kicker zx1500.1 and my lights dim more than u can believe. pluse, i was told that in order to make the 1 18 btl i have sound right, my box would have to take up the whole back of the cab of my truck which would bake the box around 7.5CF so i really couldnt put another 18 in there if i wanted to lol and iv always wanted to wall off my set-ups but iv never had the tools, or nice subs to do that with. for christmas this past year, i have all the tools i need. iv always had like cvr's or stuff like that. its just recently that i have actually had some subs worth walling off. Well if you dont want to sacrifice 7 cubes, then remove the Btl from the options. Then, you would be left with the XXX 15. However, walling one 15 will definitely be a little strange. I feel like walling a car off is going to the ultimate degree, in a sense, and I do not believe it is necessary to go through the trouble for one 15. Maybe you should wait until you have the money to pick up new subs. In the meantime, you could build yourself a solid box for the XXX and bump until you hqve the funding. Just dont go crazy with the volume its really not good to stress your electrical.

Or just 48 SA-10s. No big deal.

Youre going to need ATLEAST 2 big ass alternators(250 amps maybe). Some beefy batts like the d3100 (probably upwards of 5). Oh and you are going to need to have an epiphany concerning your install, unless you plan on doing several for testing purposes. If youre not careful, you could easily spend well over $10,000, not including the car itself. You have to take into consideration the cost of accessories like cable, sound deadening, mdf etc. Good Luck with the idea but you are really going to have t FULLY committ to this build if you want those numbers.

Personally, I would go with the 2 NS 10s but dont forget to take into account the extra wattagee. 7000 watts is no jokee! Make sure your electrical can supportt it. If not, 4 Sa-10s on 3000 watts will be more than satisfying. Ive heard nothingg but good about the SA line of drivers.

I assume that goes for the dekas too right. Im leaning toward an intimidator, same as you have. Theres a local shop that is listed as a dealer on the deka site and I was gonna take a ride over but i thought i should see y voltage with the big 3 before droppin 200 on a batt.

yeahh haha why do they have to go and hide the alternator. Dumbass japanese nissan/infinit designss. Well, I guess im just gonna have to get my ass outside and get it done. I have some 2 gauge layin around that I was gonna use for the big 3. Should I wait and get some 1/0 gauge or maybe even larger? Will it improve efficiency or is it pointless after a certain gauge?

Exactlyyy. If you are set on walling it off than you should definitely go with the btl even two if you can afford a second sub and amp.

I just started my big 3 yesterday and it is an unbelievable pain in the ass. Could it just be my vehicle (Infiniti i30) or is it generally a pain in the ass? Do you guys think i should have a mechanic or audio shop run the cables for me so I dont screw anything up?

It depends on whether you want to sacrifice volume in order to retain quality or not. If you are just looking for some opinions, I like running sealed. You save space and retain some sound quality which I prefer over pure volume. Despite being sealed, the Havocs will still have the ability to get loud so, in my opinion, seall themm upp and enjoy.

Possibly your box. Have you checked it out to see if there could be any issues that would cause slapping as you referred to it?

Easy mann. Nobody here is trying to anger you. But, when you say you want an sq setup, the senior guys on the forum take that for what it is. Like i said, theyre not trying to hurt your feelings. Being loud while retaining some sound quality is different from sq. All the drivers you listed, witht the exception of the n3 have the ability get loud and sound great but, like any other system, majority is install dependent.

yeah I measured it already the copper is almost exactly 8.25mm if not a little more, maybe up to 8.5 mm.

yea np ill see if I can get some pics up for you later