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sundownz

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Everything posted by sundownz

  1. Posted this on TriniTuner as well: "One more idea... see if the relay in your system has some leakage. Measure the remote voltage on the amp when it SHOULD be off."
  2. Got this from Chris @ db-r, my repair tech: "As for the SAZ-3000D problem, I don't know what's up. I haven't noticed any of those problems with any of the amps here at my shop, and if you haven't either then I have no idea what it could be. I know for a fact that I turn them on and off in less than 30 seconds and don't have those problems ever." Chris has seen every amp of every model that I sell that has been broken and returned for warranty - and he's never seen it either. All of the Class-D amps have the same turn-on / turn-off circuitry as well. So I'm not sure what it is that is making your amp go into protection yet. I'll run some experiments @ my shop on Monday to see if I can cause an amp to do this.
  3. I would use a fan since you will be covering it in the compartment. Even an 80mm fan blowing out, it should draw air in from that cavity w/ vents then out.
  4. I also sent a link to this thread to my repair tech so he can read over it We'll get it figured out for you!
  5. Unless your LP is within the 50 - 500 Hz range you won't be able to match it bridged like you have it. The crossovers were designed with an active setup using all four channels stereo in mind - for a setup like yours an external crossover would be necessary.
  6. It would be nearly impossible for you to have two defective amps in a row - they have all been tested to perform normally up to full output and down to 1/2 ohm at the listed date on the box, I wrote "Tested" on the box after I tested the amp myself on that date. Out of hundreds of 3000Ds nobody has every reported an issue like this at all - much less with two in a row. I'm sure you can see why I doubt there is any problem with your amp(s). If the amp is not fully shut down when you try to power it back on it may not power back on properly. I am not working the 4th through the 6th but I will test this when I get back into my shop on Monday. I will let you know what I find out then.
  7. Lets see some pics - if it has decent ventilation it should be fine, but a fan is always a good measure if you think air flow will be constricted otherwise.
  8. It is a very strange problem for certain! I can't see why anything is different the second time you turn on the amp from the first time when it came right on with the head unit.
  9. Since you exchanged the amp and the same thing is happening then you have something in your install that is not right. I would look for professional help from a local installer. The amps simply don't go into protect for no reason at all - especially not two in a row. Most especially since I have tested them all personally before they went to Trinidad. Perhaps your power or ground wire has an intermittent short circuit. Try running some small wires straight from the battery just to turn the amp on.
  10. PS: Where did you get the amp ?
  11. Of course it won't play when protection is enabled - that is what protection is for Have you ever tried starting the car normally with the deck on and allow it to turn on the amp normally? I've never once heard of a deck being damaged by being on when the car starts, they are designed to be in cars that are started normally. Also, have you measured the remote and battery voltage when the amp is IN protect mode when it won't start ?
  12. Reason I ask about the deck... is perhaps the deck is sending a surge of signal into the amp or something.
  13. Indeed, they have quite a bit of excursion potential - pretty much to basket limits. I test every Nightshade free air on an SAZ-1500D (normally) - but I had to ship out my test bench 1500D to someone so I have the SAE-1200D prototype there right now It does about 1500-watts @ 1 ohm anyway, though.
  14. You need to have signal into all four RCA cables if you are using all four channels - which it sounds like you are. All versions have differences in crossovers on Channels 1+2 vs. Channels 3+4 -- one set has x10 on HPF and one set has x10 on LPF for active component system setups.
  15. It does have an internal relay - but if that didn't work the amp wouldn't work at all as it is in the signal path. Sounds like you are just trying to turn it on and off too quick. I've never actually heard of this as an issue, though. Does it really effect you at all ? If your amp comes on when you start the car and music plays I'm not sure why you would need to turn it off and back on in 30 seconds ? Any reason you turn off the deck to start the vehicle ?
  16. No idea - perhaps an issue with your relay setup.
  17. It applies only to the filter it is next to. What do you mean with the second question ?
  18. Why are you turning it on and off to begin with? Perhaps your remote voltage has sagged and won't turn it back on.
  19. I dunno, it's on Bass Mekanik 5.0 - track 18 Then track 19 plays next, which is just a sweep.
  20. Wow, 148.5 ?? NICE The sunroof didn't like it, though!
  21. Hah, yah, the microphone on the camera doesn't like all that bass up close
  22. This was one broken by UPS, as you can tell
  23. http://www.sundownaudio.com/misc/protos/18...ken_playing.MOV Playing on the SAE-1200D prototype free air - full blast on the amp On the second track where it starts low and then gets quiet as it plays higher, its just running well into the crossover on the 1200D - sub still in working order minus the part of the basket and surround the UPS broke off!
  24. Friend of mine is selling a used one - I can get a shipping quote if you like. I am keeping it charged up on the ol' test bench daily while he tries to sell it. Can't have mine, though, I'm keeping them all for my next SPL project Can't beat these things for big systems... will be sticking them all in a Jeep Cherokee once I get it.
  25. If your goal is the most low-end the 12s would probably be your best bet in that size box / tuning as you are going to get a peaking response (around 3dB peak) around 32 Hz with the 12s - the 15s will have a flatter response. F3 on the 12s and 15s is the same in that alignment, though. Overall, the 15s would likely be louder with a sheer cone area advantage... but the large peak on the 12s may give them the edge around tuning.

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