sundownz

You are correct, it will completely fill the box. That is the idea. Polyfill "fools" the woofer into "thinking" it has a larger box. The 12" SD-1 has rather large "natural" box requirements comparatively speaking, but you can use a smaller box and stuff it with poly to achieve a good result

Want a cheap and easy solution for sealed enclosures for the SD-1 subs? http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl.cf...tnumber=260-646 * Dual 10" box with near perfect volume for $22.00 + shipping http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl.cf...tnumber=260-648 * Dual 12" box with near perfect volume (just add 2-3 pounds poly per side) for $32.00 + shipping --------- Combine the blowout pricing with those enclosures and you really can't beat that for a budget SQ system! Those enclosures are on sale until tomorrow (I think) -- then they will go back to regular pricing.

The currently listed "used" 1500Ds are the last of the Team trade-ins. All four 1500Ds were traded in from Team Sundown members that upgraded to SAZ-3000Ds for competition. Due to a poor reaction from e-bay sales all future sales of b-stock, used, and refurbished amps will take place direct on this forum only after these five auctions are over. You won't be seeing them available for the, quite literally, ridiculously low ending prices of some of the e-bay auctions that have taken place over the last two months. So, if you were holding off thinking that the auctions will keep coming -- consider this your last chance.

I have to see pics I'm using two of the 10s as subs in my install *laughs* And they will be your midbass. too bad i already have 10"s as midbass in my car hey Jacob , how much for 4 12"s shipped to israel ? planning on using them for a loud HT Let me work up a quote for you, I'm sure it won't be cheap! Probably best if you would wait until the next amp shipment and get them to tag along with that

Well, one I never argue with Jacob, two, i don't wanna risk my integrity. So with that said, to run 2 amps at .5 ohm or even 2 amps at 1 ohm. What kinda of electrical should I have, Im lookign to upgrade next car to more then one 2400 and more then one 15"... HO Alt, and 2 runs of 1/0 and 2 2400s should be plenty right? Thats a lot of weight looks like im getting an SUV =) Two 2400s with a 200-300 amp alternator should do nicely. Biggest alternator you can find is advisable, *especially* if you intend to run them at 1/2 ohm. John is correct, at 1/2 ohm you can draw 220 amps of current.

http://search.ebay.com/_W0QQsassZsundownz Freshly listed: 4x 1500Ds (used) -- buy it now $400 + shipping or try bidding starting at $350 1x SAX-1004 (refurbished) -- buy it now for $275 + shipping or try bidding starting at $225 Thought I would give the forum a heads up on the new listings Just put them up a few minutes ago. All five of the above will come with a 1-year warranty. (They may take a few minutes to show up if you are looking at this immediately after my posting it)

I have to see pics I'm using two of the 10s as subs in my install *laughs* And they will be your midbass.

Parts Express woofer tester would do the job

No, you will absolutely not be able to run two of them at 1/2 ohm.

They are built in the same factory that made old school JL, Kicker, and the good Lanzar stuff They do good work there, I visited the factory several years ago and I was impressed. I will be working with them on other projects too. Glad you are pleased so far How did the packing hold up?

Warm dust cap is normal, don't worry about it unless you smell something as Nick said. Think about it this way... ever touch a 100-watt light bulb that has been on for an hour? Hot as hell right? Well... your coil is dissipating 95-98% or more of the energy you put in as heat. Think about it

I talked to him about it... it seems that it is a proprietary design that he cannot share details about. He has offered to build them for people that want to use them in conjunction with a pair of 12" SD-1s for the rate of $125 + shipping as a "special" for my customers. Hey jacob, what are the external dimensions on this box... Maybe it will fit in my car, or could always be for home theater if tuned low enough. I really don't know, you would need to ask Rich about it. It's not very large, though, IIRC.

I talked to him about it... it seems that it is a proprietary design that he cannot share details about. He has offered to build them for people that want to use them in conjunction with a pair of 12" SD-1s for the rate of $125 + shipping as a "special" for my customers.

Incase someone is going to ask, mounting depth on the SD-1's? 10" = 5" depth 12" = 5.5" depth

Still plenty to go around folks. Don't miss out on these nice USA made speakers. They would do very well in a 3-way home setup as well... run them up to ~200 Hz as midbass to mate with a midrange driver Remember, 8 ohm coils on these! Or even use the 10" model as an in-door midbass driver for car audio!

Mike, Do you still need any help on this or did you figure it all out?

I'll put it to you this way... for what Mach5 charges you really are very unlikely to get a better speaker. You might find one that is a bit louder OR maybe sounds a bit better, but not likely both at the same cost. IMHO, for the price their stuff is a safe bet.

Their drivers are already insanely cheap, it'll be okay

Awesome score, glad to hear the results! You know you want to try Sundown amps next season Sorry I wasn't there... my brother broke his rear glass out *wait for it* ... ... while loading logs into the truck. Sadly, not from the bass.

Indeed, looks like you narrowed it down. Send the amp in to me. If you have the manual the address is on the inside of the front cover.

I haven't had a problem with the tape, I used it on one other unit probably 6 months ago and haven't heard anything back since I did use high-temp duct tape 3 layers thick, though, so this could be a factor. The bottom panel doesn't get nearly as hot as the rest of the heatsink and the contact with the transformer is minimal as well. 1/2 ohm is a no-no with a limited electrical setup. You can draw over 220 amps at full blast at 1/2 ohm.

I think it will go very well... some OEM radios simply CANNOT be replaced. For instance... the late model Sunfire... you have to retain and relocate the OEM radio due to integration! An all-in-one solution would be awesome... and think about some of the newest stuff -- Mazda3 for instance... the whole center dash is one piece, that is hellacious to replace. I think it's a killer idea for very new cars... older cars not so much, but brand new cars with crazy integration, defiantly.

Indeed, AGU fuses only go up to 80 amps. It is likely that your old fuse is damaged, so go ahead and replace it until you can upgrade to an ANL fuse. This could very well be your only problem. Try that and let me know. And yes, that little AGU fuse can be dropping voltage -- which will make the amp get hot, and if voltage gets low enough will cause it to hit protection like you described. If that doesn't work then you can send it to me. Send me an e-mail to [email protected] and I will look up how much warranty you have left tomorrow... well, I guess later today since it is past 1 AM

Since you only have 4 gauge wire I wouldn't go higher than a 100 amp fuse. You really need 1/0 wire, at which point you would use a 150 amp fuse. You can run the 1500D @ 1 ohm with a 105 amp alternator, sure, but how well depends on how you treat the volume knob. The 1500D can draw over 160 amps at full output, this WILL drop your voltage to battery level or less. So, if you are calling for the amplifier to produce it's full output on a consistent basis, then no, it won't work very well for you. If you can't upgrade the alternator now... at least get the biggest starter battery that you can cram under the hood. I fit one almost twice as bit as stock under the hood in my Civic!

Doesn't sound like the connector is an issue, if it has been twisted a few time sit could be slightly loose -- which is no big deal as long as it stays on the amp. Ventilation isn't the main concern for box mounting, extensive vibration that can shake stuff loose inside the amp is If the fuse is a "glass cylinder" AGU style... change it. They can drop voltage, even if the amp has some power if the voltage is way too low it'll go into protection. Fuses can "go bad" without blowing and cause problems. Even other fuse types CAN do this, but AGU are the worst for doing so. You don't have to know anything about the amp to test for the transformer shorting. Simply try it without the bottom cover on, if that solves it apply 2-3 layers of duct tape to the inside of the bottom panel directly above the transformers. And yes, if you can't figure it out you can send it to me. The amps from Rob are still under warranty.