sundownz

Fact is, 90% of customers want crossovers of some kind. I can't make a specialty amp at this stage in the game. I do have plans for a few years down... but right now I need products that sell very well to pay the bills and fuel development.

I need to sell off some of my collection so here goes. ---------- 1x TC-3000 Dual-2 15" Subwoofer $325 + Shipping http://www.sundownaudio.com/misc/TC-3000_1.jpg http://www.sundownaudio.com/misc/TC-3000_2.jpg * Brand new, never even hooked up. 1x TC-5400 LMS Dual-2 15" Subwoofer $650 + Shipping http://www.sundownaudio.com/misc/LMS-5400_1.jpg http://www.sundownaudio.com/misc/LMS-5400_2.jpg http://www.sundownaudio.com/misc/LMS-5400_3.jpg http://www.sundownaudio.com/misc/LMS-5400_4.jpg Both of those are still in their boxes. I hooked up the LMS-5400 to make sure it was in working order. Will be packed and shipped properly. ---------- I have 2x DD 9512 F motors / G basket and soft parts Dual 4 ohm. Both fresh re-coned used for testing for about an hour or so. These have carbon fiber dust caps. $400 + Shipping Each http://www.sundownaudio.com/misc/9512s_1.jpg http://www.sundownaudio.com/misc/9512s_2.jpg I also have 2x DD 9515 E Motors / F soft parts Dual 1 ohm. Both are used but not abused. They are dusty from sitting around but I will clean them up before shipment. I played around with them a bit but not too much. $350 + Shipping Each http://www.sundownaudio.com/misc/9515s_1.jpg http://www.sundownaudio.com/misc/9515s_2.jpg ---------- I have one TC-9 15" and one TC-9 12" from teamquakecelica. These are Dual-2 subs with plain black "boob" aluminum dust caps. I've played around with these a bit and they do have some scuffs on the back plates. $137.50 + Shipping Each http://www.sundownaudio.com/fs/TC9_12_Back.jpg http://www.sundownaudio.com/fs/TC9_12_Cone.jpg http://www.sundownaudio.com/fs/TC9_15_Back.jpg http://www.sundownaudio.com/fs/TC9_15_Cone.jpg

I tested the 100.4 at 2 ohms bridged on an SI BM sub... lasted about 4 months then blew the power supply. The BM is an "easy" 2 ohm load as well. So no, I don't suggest or warranty it.

Hehe... at least it's not an 01+ model. I had to take out the entire rear area, seats, side panels, etc... just to get the rear deck cover off. I'd hate to work in an install bay and see an 01+ Civic roll in for rear speaker replacement. Heck... the fronts are those clip-in plastic deals with the almost square hole behind them. You HAVE to cut and make a baffle unless someone makes a plastic adapter or some sort. But yah... a 96' is no problem! Running power wire is oh so easy... speaker install is a breeze... and wire tucking is easier than the 01+ models.

I have a few protos around here that might work for the movie room. Remember the "E Series" prototype I posted up? I may end up not producing those as the SD-1 has done so well in that price range, let me know ----- Hmmm... probably just a few early things... some crappy Crunch DS amps. Probably should never have sold my Linear Power 2.2HV or Brahma MK1 15s either...

Made a separate topic for regular voltage testing. Hopefully I can get more in-depth testing with a stronger electrical system soon. ----------- Pyramid 50 Amp Power Supply 8 AWG from supply to batteries Kinetik 2400 Battery Duralast 1000 CA Battery 2 AWG between batteries 4 AWG from batteries to amp Fluke AC current / voltage meter Sears DMM Measurements: 65.8 volts 49.2 Amps 1.33 ohm calculated rise from 0.6 ohm DCR ** 3237 Watts 14.4 volts rest dropping to 10.75 volts ** - Rise was higher than when I tested the 1500D, it was 1.08 ohms for that test. Presumably since my single run of 12 AWG speaker wire is heating up some much due to the extra power. I also did a few test runs at lower volume so the coils were warmer as well. ----------- UPDATE ON AUGUST 26 2007: Sean Belanger drove up from SC today with his O-Scope and a bunch of meters. This setup was in my SPL truck with the engine OFF. At this time I have 2x Powermaster D3100s, 1x Kinetik 2400, and 1x DEKA Intimidator hooked up in the truck. I had my trusty 50-amp pyramid supply hooked up to my batteries with 12 AWG wire just to keep them topped off, supply was set to charge at 12.8 volts and no higher. Discovered the following from the testing: 1) Power output stays about the same as what I measured above even with a drop to around 11.8 volts. 2) Efficiency was high at 0.5 DCR with a rise to 1.32 ohms @ ~80% measured at 3030 watts of output. 3) At 0.5 DCR with a rise to 2.08 ohms we measured ~90% efficiency at 2572 watts of output. 4) When the amp was dropped down to 0.175 DCR with a rise to 0.82 ohms power only increased to 3450 watts. At this load we had to roll the volume to avoid protection so voltage was dropping to 11.2 volts by the time we got a reading. Efficiency dropped to around ~65 - 70% at this load. 5) We could have gotten more "output" from the amp but we stopped increase gain and volume when clipping made the wave-form ragged. My conclusion for the SAZ-3000D is that, even for SPL competition, that dropping under 0.5 DCR won't gain very much. The power gain is small and results in a significant reduction in efficiency. In a Street-A or similar one-battery limited vehicle the 3000D seems to work best for 0.5 DCR with a 2x - 4x impedance rise for maximum efficiency levels, especially if multiple amps were utilized and efficiency were key.

Make sure there is no lead slap and you'll have a great product. I had bad luck and 3 out of 4 of mine had lead slap at moderate x-max. Other than that they were pretty solid.

All of them but the Vulcan might be crap knockoffs, the Vulcan is the only one I've heard of anyone using. The other lines look in photos and in person (I did see one of the Thunders at a show) like cheesy products. Maybe they are okay, I don't know, but price, look, and feel make me think they aren't nearly as good as the Vulcan amps.

* The 100.4 and the 3Sixty.2 mounted to the seat-back * The 100.2 mounted to the top of my box with rubber feet. The real anti-theft kicker here is that it's damn near impossible to get this amp off the box without sliding the box back -- see below. * Two L-brackets screwed into the wheel wheels of the car then to the box (one on the other side makes two). * I had to leave some extra wiring for flexibility when I take the seat up and down and for when I need to slide the box back and remove the amp. Didn't want to trim it all down so I just tied it up. * Could not quite neaten this area up like I wanted. I had to leave enough extra on the power and ground to slide stuff around and fold the seat up and down as well. Everything is securely tied together and the distribution blocks are screwed down as well. Of course, this area is not seen when the seat is up and nobody but me has to ever see it so I'm not worried. Another anti-theft thing here... you can't fold the seats down in this car without the key, there is a lock cylinder on the rear deck. ---- Now... all I really need to do is to get the passenger side midbass in, deaden the doors, and tweak the system I've got another gremlin though... now I've got a turn-off pop. Presumably my 3Sixty.2 is acting up... I'm going to see if I can get my isolated Navone Engineering power supply in there for it. It did not pop before installation of the 100.2 either. These high-tech gadgets are so touchy sometimes.

SOLD!

You won't blow the Icon if you set the gains properly. How about an FI BL 15" woofer? Or even a BTL, used you can get one in your range.

Oddly... Funky Pups refuse to burn in the furnace... instead they pump out sick deebeez and actually put out the 12,000 degree plasma torches. So, like any reasonable speaker enthusiast would do... we make center channels out of the extra pups (don't ask).

Got it for ya Chris! The rest of his setup is the following at the moment: Pioneer AVIC-N2 Infinity Kappa 6.5 components (Installed) Infinity Kappa 6x9 3 ways (Installed) Infinity Reference 5741a and 5721a (Installed) 2 Sundown 3000D Amplifiers 2 FI BTL

I was too... loved that car. The payment was too high and I was having problems with the power steering... I had already spent $1,000 in *parts* working on the power steering but it was still notchy and problematic -- all thanks to a shop putting power steering fluid in when the flushed they system (it calls for ATF fluid). Of course I didn't check it as I figured it was obvious being that "ATF fluid only" was written on the cap and they were professionals. I normally do my own work but didn't have the equipment to flush the PS system. I couldn't prove it as it took 6 months to break down the system... and by then they could easily deny it. Anyhow... I couldn't keep paying for the car and fixing it as I have better things to do with my money, like build more amps and whatnot But wow, that car sounded GREAT... DLS Iridium front stage and sealed SI Mag *drools*

Indeed, I have a few more around that I need to sell.

Not sure if you are familiar with the SS, but they aren't a typical Kicker speaker. I think that Scan-Speak makes them based on looking at them closely... it has the exact same type spider as the 7" Revelators -- take off the center phase plug and you can see the healthy copper shorting cap as well. I wanted to install the 7" Revelators but didn't want to put in an amp big enough to power them at 8 ohms and I want to do an MTM for my house with all four of them that I have at the moment. I haven't had a chance to really listen to the tweeters since I have only one midbass in and it sounds weird... but so far so good. If I end up not liking this setup I do have the DLS Iridium 3" midrange and 1" tweeter around, as well as some Seas 7" midbass and even those Scan-Speaks. Hmm... I guess I can live with the hiss, since 99% of the time I'll have the engine on and won't hear it.

Jacob thank you for proving my first posts correct http://www.soundsolutionsaudio.com/forum/i...st&p=256578 Muahahahaha Haha, so true... when the blue Civic was still running I was driving it totally gutted too.

That is exactly what "Mega Heavy Bass" has done, except using 15" Mags. Escort hatch, wall, big numbers at 20 Hz It's in the SI forum if you look around. Maybe that is why platnum was confused

Thanks I ordered my Raamat BXT 5 minutes too late... I have to wait on their next shipment so it won't be here until next week. Guess who is driving with no interior door skins for a week? Yep, thats me. I got 125 ft^2... I wonder if I can use it all on two doors and my trunk... yah, I think I can I'm not going nuts with deadener like my other Civic... I used up my deadening energy for the next 10 years on that: http://www.sundownaudio.com/rides/Civic/ -- You can see the carnage here. This one isn't running at the moment... waiting on performance mods and whatnot. Alot of those pics are old and don't apply anymore... but you get the idea.

Got the 3Sixty.2 installed and the 100.4 mounted to the back of the seat. Do not have the passenger side Kicker SS midbass in yet. That part is a pain, have to cut sheet metal. The 100.2 won't fit on the seat backs so it is going to have to be mounted to the woofer enclosure with some rubber feet. I have a hissing through my system with no volume... seems that the 3Sixty.2 is causing it. Never experienced this in my other installs utilizing the 3Sixty.2 unit so I'm not sure whats up. Can't hear it with the engine running or with music, but it's there, so it bothers me. Neatening this stuff up is a huge PITA... more pics tomorrow.

A few years ago SI was robbed and their entire inventory stolen. I believe someone was brought in under suspicion for being part of the crime, twice actually, and has posted bail and skipped town before they could be put to trial both times. Wonderful justice system.

The non-logo 12-spoke Mags were the stolen ones, yes.

Most AC products that I have used are solid. These days if someone needs lots of processing I say Rockford 3Sixty.2 and thats that... time alignment, level adjustment, crossovers, tremendous EQ flexibility, and so forth... it rules. I'm using one in my car and used one in my last car, well worth the money spent.

So... I'm finally going to have a running vehicle with a system. It's been about 8 months since I've had a system in a running vehicle, pretty sad all things considered! But... it is coming along nicely and some photos of the progress are attached. *Under-Hood Wiring w/ Knukonceptz KLM 1/0 battery to chassis and battery to engine block grounds. Generic "0 gauge" wire through generic ANL fuse holder. The red generic 0 gauge is about the size of 2 gauge quality wire and is plenty for this install. All ring terminals are soldered... and yes, that is a much larger battery than stock. * Roughly 2 cubes tuned to ~32 Hz thanks to Rich (stratusrt01). This houses 2x Sundown SD-1 10" subwoofers. These produce more than enough bass for my regular daily driver... quite surprising really. * Kicker SS midbass driver. Mounted using a 1/2" MDF mounting baffle that I made. Duct tape used to seal it tight against the door. This thing has 12 screw holes... I used all of them and each one goes through the sheet metal behind the baffle... so it's on there good. I will be sealing it further with aluminum tape when deadening gets here -- which will be Raamat BXT. * Driver side Kicker SS tweeter. Simple install, cut a hole and put it in! These will get time alignment and level adjustment from the Rockford 3Sixty.2 that will be installed when it is completed. * Passenger side tweeter is installed as well right now. * My door is just a hair shy of fitting the Kicker SS midbass along with the window. I screwed this pressure treated wood block in there to stop the window before it hits the magnet. Three 2.5" screws hold it in place and I'll probably add more. My window "stop" mechanism simply waits until the motor is under too much load then shuts it off, so I'm simply making an "after market stop" if you will. It works just like from the factory except the window is about 2" shy of going all the way down. * Wire mess while construction is underway. The fat white wire is Nick Lemons @ Stereo Integrity's now infamous "magic speaker wire" -- it is really pricey Tara-Labs wire. I know what you are thinking... but I have done an A/B and was convinced enough to pay over $350 for a spool of wire. Anyhow... the amps will likely be mounted to the back of the seats when those go back in, if that doesn't work out as planned they will be mounted on top of the enclosure and I'll get some rubber feet to help isolate them.

Yah, not a great idea Although, a 1500D works great on these. From one to Eight of them it does the right power to each one --- These are pending sale.