sundownz

Ah, the classic open circuit problem

Hmmm... running out of battery power perhaps? Have you measured your drop?

i was looking at the ssd, but was unsure because of the power. most seem to run 800 at a min. and i am only going to have 500... SSD has good output on low power from what I've seen from it.

http://www.sundownaudio.com/misc/Two_Mags_1500D.AVI I was testing a used amp going out to a customer and decided it would be fun to take a video. And yes... I beat on the Mags like that every time I test an amp

Indeed, I'm sure that Ray's suggestions will help alot. To me... it sounds like you are out of port area. I believe that other guys running that much power use bigger ports. It looked like the last CRX that I saw like yours had 8" custom glassed aeroports... Terry Brooks I believe? I could be wrong... but they did look huge. Of course... Ray knows spl in a CRX more than me, so go with what he says Maybe even lack of current... tried anything other than the NSB-90 in there? Maybe one of the large Batcap batteries if they are legal? Have heard good things about those.

The big problem is that the sub has an F3 of 60 Hz sealed. So by the time he is really getting into "sub" information he is already calling for double the power. IMHO, passive-radiator or ported is the only way to go on that sub if you expect much output at all.

How much port area do you have? It's pretty obvious that you have a stack of power on tap, the only things remaining are thermal compression, mechanical compression, port compression, or perhaps even box placement. You have posted it in pieces before... but can you run down the whole setup in one place? Maybe with pics as well. Perhaps someone will notice something

The TC-10 OEM needs alot of juice sealed, that is for certain. I have one in an actual ported box -- the port length is extremely long thus making the box fairly large, so a PR is probably the best option for you if size is an issue.

Looks nice

The TC-10 OEM is quite a power hungry sub, so yes, more than 600 watts may be required to make it perform like you desire I have four of them around here so I do know a bit about them. The SAZ-1500D @ 2 ohm will push it quite hard but depending on your taste the SAE-1000D may not cut it. Is the sub ported or sealed? It will be especially difficult to get alot of output from that woofer sealed. The SAX-100.2 will run much warmer than the Class-D amps, yes. It is a Class A/B and they are less efficient, being warm won't hurt the amp unless it is hot enough to shut down from thermal protection (which takes alot). The casing is a heatsink and thus it's job is to get warm and disperse the heat into the air and away from the transistors. I'll put it this way... I've never had a single 100.2 come back to me for a legit failure -- so don't worry about a bit of warmth. The 75 Hz crossover works quite well for most any 6.5" sized component speaker out there -- I run the Tang-Band 6.5 inch "subs" (used as midbass) in my brothers truck at 75 Hz and they have 12mm of one way x-max available... the 100.2 still gets them moving when he cranks it up. Although, next year the 100.2 will be updated to go down to 50 Hz in cases where that is desirable such as for 8" mibass drivers.

Windshield banner? I can send one out to you for a few dollars to cover postage.

Hmmm... so you are at around 4kw or so per sub now then eh? Might be reaching the limits of that sub at your burp frequency, what frequency are you burping at? I know that we can hit x-max on my brother's 9510s at anything but dead at tuning ~51 Hz on a 1500D at 1/2 ohm.

Yep, I will also add that some of the B-Stock amps weren't exactly damaged in shipping, but simply have some sort of minor error in build from the factory -- as mentioned; knobs out of alignment, or an RCA connector that is too tight. When I sell them I always point out what the flaw is so the buyer knows what they are getting. All of the 1500Ds -- used, b-stock, and refurbished are tested on my bench before they leave here at a 0.6 DCR load until the amp gets warm. I also clamp the output to make sure they can produce as much power as a 1500D should. I also test all other models as well but, of course, don't use a 0.6 DCR load testing 100.4s PS: For the e-bay auctions I have been including a more limited warranty recently -- 90-days on refurbs, and 1-year on b-stock and used. I noticed that people were contacting dealers with prices from used, b-stock, and refurbs expecting to get price matches on a new amp since they had full warranty too.

Sure does. Sometimes swapping phase on one side helps response by eliminating cancellation. Since the speakers are fairly far away when they are wired "in phase" cancellation can happen by the time the signals reach each other. Just like if they were "out of phase" and close together.

John, There is a mis-print regarding power wire size on the SAE-1000D. It accepts 4 gauge wire. I have it updated on the site, but on the print materials it still says 1/0 by mistake. http://www.sundownaudio.com/pp1000d.html So yes, you can trim wire to make it fit no problem.

He may have a spare around, if he does not contact Steve @ Smart Auto Sound and I'll send some spares up to Canada through him.

Looks like an XBL^2 or underhung motor... don't know what it is exactly.

I've only had one problem on e-bay as a buyer and I got it worked out... albeit 3 months later. Indo Audio sent me the wrong Phoenix Gold EQ and it took about 3 months to get the right one, but I did eventually get it. Now... as a seller. I have almost been scammed twice. Both times buyers bought items, received them, never contacted me about anything, and filed charge-back reports. I won both cases because I followed everything on my end... still a huge PITA.

Indeed... I have been listing a few amps on e-bay lately. Used, b-stock, and refurbished goods. The results have been pretty good so far and it's helping me move the amps I have laying around here.

Sounds like it should be fine as long as you aren't sending too much RCA voltage into the 1500D through the line driver. The behavior you are experiencing *may* be some kind of protection in the line-driver unit to keep people from damaging their equipment. That is my only guess as to why it would begin to decrease the output level.

There really is no reason to get the TC3K unless you want an SAZ-1500D per sub as the TC2K will do everything the 3K will at your power level. The FI SSD is another solid option. They do well on lower power as they are quite efficient, not that they won't handle more, but they don't really need it

Yah, that LED seems to be really problematic... which is odd since I haven't heard of any problems with the power LED in the amp which is pretty much the same thing.

At 1 ohm? A healthy factory alternator and a large and relatively new 1000 CA primary battery will do fine. Just be sure to upgrade the big three and run at least a 2 gauge power wire (1/0 is preferred).

Yep, that is plenty.

No shirts yet. They are a bit pricey and product development is ahead of shirts in my "to-do" list at the moment