sundownz

Richard, Can you send me the details for that show? I'd like to go if possible

1) My amps work fine un-strapped but go into protection when strapped and/or my amps are stuck in protection. - 3/8/07 I have had three customers with this complaint. All three of them replaced their RCA cables to remedy the problem. Some model Stinger and Memphis RCA cables will NOT work with the SAZ-1500D, *especially* for the jumper RCA from master to slave based on the feedback I have received. Be advised... this should be the FIRST thing you check if your strapped pair is going into protection. It will usually be the slave going into protection if this is the case... but not always. ------------------------------ 2) I want to strap my amp at the lowest possible load, what is it? - 3/13/07 Quite frankly I recommend to run the amps at 1 ohm each and 2 ohms strapped. One hundred percent of any problems people see with protection and overheating result from loads under 1 ohm per amplifier... I have yet to hear a single compaint at 1 ohm operation. The lowest officially supported strapped load is 2 ohms. Running at a load of under 1 ohm un-strapped or 2 ohms strapped (1 ohm per amp) will void your warranty coverage. As of March 31st, 2007 the SAZ-1500D will not carry 0.5 ohm warranty coverage. All amplifiers sold BEFORE that date are still covered by the 0.5 ohm warranty as described in THIS thread. ------------------------------ 3) I am looking at the manual but still can't figure out how to strap the amps. - 3/13/07 This seems to be a common problem so it's not just you. I hooked up the wiring on a pair and snapped some actual photos to help you out: The master amplifier gets the input from the head-unit and a mono RCA from "BR Out" connected. The slave amplifier ONLY gets "BR In" connected from the master. ALL controls are handled on the master, setting anything on the slave is not necessary. This picture should be pretty self explanatory. * The slave takes the "-" connection(s) * The master takes the "+" connection(s) * The "-" terminals of the amps are hooked together. You don't need to use both sets of "+" on the amps. They are there for flexibility. While you should always connect both "-" terminals on the amps together using large wire as general procedure it is not absolutely necessary to use both sets of "+" terminals. They are connected together internally in parallel. When strapped the MASTER controls ALL functions of both amps. ----------------------------- 4) Hey, doesn't the SAE-1000D accept 1/0 Power wire? It doesn't fit, what gives? - 7/3/07 Print materials have a mis-print stating 1/0 power wire will fit. In reality the power / ground terminals are identical to the SAX-100.2 and 100.4 models -- meaning they are designed for 4 gauge wire. You can trim 1/0 wire to fit, use a "reducer," or go through a distribution block to run 4 gauge to the amp if you already have 1/0 ran. ----------------------------- 5) I can't find my invoice but I need to send my amplifier in for warranty. - 4/9/08 You need some sort of invoice to prove your date of purchase PERIOD. I can not play detective for you and figure out when and where you bought the amp, the warranty terms clearly state a need for an invoice of some kind from your authorized dealer. A cart check-out page (listing what the item is) and a Paypal receipt are acceptable from an online dealer - but you MUST sent in SOMETHING. NO EXCEPTIONS. ----------------------------- 6) I am sending my amplifier in for warranty, how should I pack it? - 4/9/08 DO NOT send the amplifier in it's cosmetic packing only! I repeat, DO NOT send it in the cosmetic packing only. You MUST put the cosmetic box inside of a second box or, chances are, it will be damaged in shipping. Per the warranty terms I am NOT responsible for damage due to poor packing from the customer and you WILL be charged for repair or replacement if it is beyond repair from damage. Insurance will NOT cover an amplifier packed in a cosmetic box, it is considered poor packing practice. ------------------------------ 7) Can I use the BR IN and BR OUT connectors for daisy chaining amps? Do they work like regular outputs? - 4/21/08 NO, they can not be used as regular outputs for daisy chaining amps. DO NOT do this. The BR OUT if to be connected to the BR IN of a slave amp, when strapped, ONLY. DO NOT put signal INTO the BR OUT connector. ------------------------------ 8) Why are there two pairs of connections on the mono-block Class-D amps? How do I bridge them? - 4/21/08 You do not bridge them, it is a mono-block amplifier. The connectors are in parallel inside the amp. If you hook 4 ohms to each one, you get two ohms. If you hook 2 ohms to each one, you get one ohm. They are also there for strapping the amps, as pictured above. ------------------------------ More stuff coming when I get time and/or more questions that need answered.

I decided to play it safe on the Mags since our box was quite large and we didn't have enough time to find the mechanical limits for this competition. Next comp we will have more testing time and may move to 2x SAZ-1500Ds. The Mags are fine with that thermally but I am being careful mechanically. I think that box is something like 10 ft^3 or so... so we don't need gobs of power to reach mechanical limits

Thanks for posting that Robert!

SOLD!

SOLD.

Just a word of caution... that 100.4 is a beast. Turn it up nice and slow at first just to make sure your components will take the power... ESPECIALLY if you have BBE enable.

Mike, 1) If you are setting with a DMM that'll do to get you in the area. Since a subwoofer (or any moving coil transducer) is not a resistive load that is not totally accurate, but it's a good way to get a fairly accurate setting. I always do gains by ear... it works very well for me But if you are not comfortable with that, then setting your SAE-1000D at an output of 31.6 volts should get you pretty close. 2) Are you sure you WANT 325 watts per channel from your 100.4? That'll blow most components on the market. You would do it like this: P = v^2 / R 325 = v^2 / 4 1300 = v^2 v = 36 volts So 36 volts is the correct answer. I would suggest setting the 100.4 by ear and let your components tell you when they have had enough. If you set it to a number then there is no telling if the speakers will survive the power when you actually play music on them. If you plan to use BBE all the time then set the gains with it on. It adds more energy to certain frequencies so if you set it without BBE and everything seems okay it might blow a speaker when you enable it. 3) The knob only turns the gain DOWN. At max level the knob is at whatever the gain setting is on the amp. Set your gains with the knob all the way up.

Actually... most customers hate the allen terminals and love the screw terminals. So I don't know what to tell you!

The difference is that the strapped pair of SAZ-1500Ds are rated 3000 watts @ 2 ohms... the SAZ-3000D will be rated 3000 watts @ 1 ohm. And despite some rumors that are apparantly circulating, it is NOT just two SAZ-1500Ds in one chassis!

Ah yes... the smell of burnt coil. I remember it well... the only sub I've ever personally blown on accident was a 15" Brahma... one of the first ones out there as I pre-ordered an MK1 version.

I don't think magnet weight is listed as it is not an important specification. The "meaning" you are searching for may be motor strength... and the BMs have a strong motor, stronger than many subs with larger magnets, look at the "BL" for an idea of motor strength.

Brandon (thumpnD2s) is a good friend of mine. He got me into car audio, actually Of course his taste tends to favor the SPL side of things. His daily driven cars are always painful.

I think that with a Nightshade and 4x 1500Ds you'll have a very good chance of maintaining that record I'm hoping that the protos will be in soon!

Thanks very much, I hope you are pleased with your new amps when you get them

Excellent results, keep us up to date on your progress Have any more install pics?

Wow, so the voltage was that low? I'd like to see your setup going with full voltage and I think you might be seeing those 149 - 150 numbers with a little more work

Looks great so far Ricky!

Pending Sale.

Are you deaf yet Brandon?

500-watt Class-D IS in the works as well SAZ-3000D has no firm ETA... although I am shooting for 6 months.

Most likely they will have 12 dB or 18 dB slopes. It is quite possible that I will incorporate 24 dB crossovers in later revisions of the lineup.

Indeed, probably so! I was able to dig up the test results from re-posts on other forums using Google as well. If you can think of enough key words then you can find quite a bit on there!

I was able to dig up the old 0.5 ohm warranty coverage thread through a Google search using their "Cached" feature. Cheap mass storage is a glorious thing. That is all

ANY AMPLIFIER SOLD AFTER MARCH 31st 2007 NO LONGER CARRIES 0.5 OHM WARRANTY COVERAGE. Full explanation is available in this thread: http://www.soundsolutionsaudio.com/forum/i...?showtopic=7556 ---------- If you intend to run your SAZ-1500D at a 0.5 ohm nominal load please read this entire thread, especially the sections in bold near the bottom. To put it simply at the top... this is a warranty against damage NOT a guarantee that your setup will run without a hitch at 0.5 ohms all the time. I suggest that most consumers run a DCR not under 0.7 ohms for daily applications, and to reserve extremely low impedance use for competition. Read the full text for all details. ---------- The Sundown Audio Warranty is as follows: Your new Sundown Audio amplifier is covered by a 2 year limited warranty if purchased from an authorized Sundown Audio dealer. This warranty does not cover improper installation*, accidental damage, misuse, abuse, improper wiring, operation of unit outside of listed specifications, or any product that has been modified or repaired by anyone other than Sundown Audio. This warranty is transferable provided the original invoice or receipt is still with the unit so that its new owner can prove date and place of purchase. All warranty returns must be sent freight prepaid to Sundown Audio and be accompanied by the original sales invoice or receipt. For faster warranty service please contact us to request a return authorization code. At the sole discretion of Sundown Audio your amplifier will be either repaired or replaced. If no defect is found and the unit must be shipped back the customer is responsible for return freight, if the unit is truly defective the replaced or repaired unit will be shipped back prepaid. In the event of shipping damage due to improper packaging of the return the customer is liable for the cost of all damages, necessary repairs, or replacement. Be sure to properly pack your return! Sundown Audio also offers a 5 year guarantee to our customers for a discounted replacement unit. We are so certain of the quality of our equipment that even if you are at fault for causing damage to your amplifier we will offer you a new unit at a reduced cost compared to MSRP. Contact us via e-mail to take advantage of this offer, even though we doubt you will ever need to! This offer applies ONLY to the original purchaser of the unit and is not transferable like the 2 year limited warranty. As is the case with standard warranty claims the return MUST be sent prepaid and with a copy of the original invoice or receipt. ------ * - Improper installation INCLUDES not having an adequate electrical system for your audio equipment. If you want to run your SAZ-1500D @ 0.5 ohms nominal and retain warranty coverage you must have a factory battery PLUS an additional deep-cycle style battery PER SA-1500D used. Any less is simply not adequate to keep voltage up. http://www.soundsolutionsaudio.com/forum/i...?showtopic=7116 Look into Loyd's testing thread. Even with a large 1000 CA Everstart Maxx battery his voltage still dropped below 12 volts at 0.5 ohms nominal and you, in fact, gain VERY LITTLE power output with an insufficient electrical system at the reduced impedance. With an additional battery Loyd maintained 12.8 volts. Loyd's battery is HUGE... but a regular 1000 CA deep cycle in addition to your factory battery should be sufficient to maintain over 12 volts at this load with a factory alternator. If you have a high output alternator of 160+ amps and a single LARGE deep cycle like an Group 31 Optima or similar, Kinetik 2400, etc as your primary starting battery / system battery then you are also good for warranty coverage. ------ (Re-Posting of Original Thread) After extensive testing at NOPI Nationals I have decided to extend warranty coverage down to 0.5 ohms on the SAZ-1500D wired to non Stereo Integrity subwoofers as well as SI woofers. We ran Hoss' truck for around 10-12 hours total over the course of the weekend beating the tar out of his BM 12s with his pair of 1500Ds at 0.5 ohms and only hit protection twice all weekend as the voltage creeped down to 10.5 volts or so. So, any normal person should not have an issue provided adequate ventilation is present (and adequate voltage supply). Suffice to say... they are fairly stable at 0.5 ohms nominal, so I will henceforth warranty this load on all drivers and not just SI subwoofers. This is not a recommendation to run at this load as it is a tougher load for the amplifier, but it is a notice that I will repair or replace your SAZ-1500D if it totally dies at this load. A word of advice... leave a good bit of room around the amps at this load as they will get very hot after extended periods of time -- switchable fans may be a good idea if you have limited airspace around the unit. Pushing your unit into thermal protection due to an inadequate or improper install, or due to an in-box impedance that is too low is not a warranty issue, it is on you. Be responsible! DO NOT try to go below 0.5 ohms. I know it's tempting to try to take it "just a bit farther," but you will void your warranty no matter what speakers you have. Loads under 0.5 ohms are absolutely untested and I do not endorse, guarantee, or advise wiring anything below 0.5 ohms to these amplifiers. I also caution anyone attemping this load with non-SI subwoofers that I have not officially tested it on these other drivers and some drivers with lower inductance (eg: XBL^2 drivers and other low inductance designs) MAY not run properly at a 0.5 ohm nominal load. I will cover your amplifier if it is damaged, but I do not guarantee that you will not push it into thermal or overload protection on speakers that I have not tested it on -- at this time meaning anything other than the SI line. Continually pushing your amplifier into protection over and over again due to improper voltage, ventilation, or a load that is too low is considered abuse for warranty reasons. If you are unsure of how to properly install your amplifier for 0.5 ohm operation please consult a professional installer for the necessary electrical upgrades and to ensure that you have adequate ventilation. The most thoroughly tested loads have an Re above 0.43 ohms. If you put a DMM on your load and it is below 0.43 ohms you may have problems running at 0.5 ohms nominal and I do not recommend doing so for extended periods of time (daily operation).