dbsupra

There are a lot of variables that will make it hard to determine. You are going to have to play with placement to see what you like best. You can build a test box and try different combinations of port/driver and vehicle placement. You can use an external port to change tuning as well. Build it on the bigger side and use blocks to reduce airspace. Or as bassmaster said you can build a box that you can move around to see what you like best. You wont be able to change port/sub orientation though. It's a lot of trial and error. If you are like me and like to build boxes you can try a bunch of different options to see what you like the best.

So you can build 2 enclosures "to spec" for 4 15's and 10-15" between them? That's a massive trunk. Sounds like what you are trying to build is a 6th order bandpass without the port. Those are not easy to design and maybe you will get lucky with what you are doing but hard to just say yeah that will be awesome. What are your max dimensions?

I thought I posted in this thread and then realized it was swifts. Yes I repaired a bunch of these at the old shop with the same problem. Besides what you already have done we also brushed on some stuff called deoxit. Works great in cleaning as well as keeping them clean. Pretty sure you can still get it and a little goes a long way. We used it on any exposed wiring, power connections and RCA cable connectors.

Part of the issue is the actual port length extends beyond the physical port length. Look up port end correction and it will make more sense and explain it a lot better than I can.

If you hooked it up wrong then yes more than likely blew the fuse. A lot of toyotas run the head unit power thru the dome fuse. Not sure if that is the case with yours but since all your interior lights are out I would venture to say it is. Yes you can run the yellow batt wire straight to the battery. Be sure you use an inline fuse. Or.... You can replace the blown fuse and hook it up the right way and be done.

I forgot to ask. Do you notice your coils still getting warm quickly or was that because of the wiring? The logo idea sounds cool. There was a guy in Washington I think that did custom vinyl printing. If you can't find anyone local I'll see if i can dig it up.

Great job! I would have maybe mounted the amps under the platform instead of on the box. Nothing wrong with that, just preference is all. Otherwise it looks great. Maybe it would have been a little cooler to post progress along the way. This is more of a "built" instead of "build" lol. Vids?

Wow havent seen you post in a while. I like it, especially the baffle.

Screen blank but still playing? I used to repair issues like this. Often the contacts between faceplate and the headunit are dirty, corrosion, carbon arcing, etc. Try pushing on the faceplate and jiggle it around a little and see if you can get it to do it. If so you just need to clean the contacts with a pencil eraser. Be sure you blow out the shreds real well after you are done.

Are those the kickers? Personally I'd rather do a component and amp combo. Not sure what your goals are or what you listen to so hard to suggest any equipment.

I did the math for you. You need around 25 sq in for a slot port to prevent port noise and compression. Assuming for the Fi SSD 32-34hz tune

Let's say you use a 3" wide port. If you have to 90 it to fit the port length you have to maintain the 3" width thru the entire length ie port straight back to the wall, 3" of space and then 90 to the rest of the length. Also you measure port length thru the middle. Just looked at your plans and that isn't near enough port area for an SSD. For your space constraints you may consider a passive radiator. It's more money and you can't just slap it in there but it saves a ton of space. You may also consider a full external aeroport. You can get away with a bit less port area with an aero and simple to install and tune.

Yes there is. There just isn't a switch. Do you not have them yet? In the manual it shows you specifically how to wire 2 amps strapped.

Round port or slot? Round port there isn't much option but to paint it first. Slot port you can do the same way. Be sure you tape up the edges that will be glued or it wont bond correctly. An alternate method is a small trim roller with an extension. Much easier to paint before you put it together though.

That seems odd to me. 200 watts to 2000 watts and very little output difference? You sure you have it wired to 1 ohm? I could understand not hearing much difference from 200 to 400 but that seems a little crazy.

That's just straight awesome Lee. Outstanding job. Glad it all came together for you and performs how you like. It was pretty nasty before, I can only imagine what this one is like. Still thinking about the 2nd amp? I think you have inspired me to do some testing with some trim panels. Not the same application as you of course, but it may help improve mine as well. I was thinking about it anyway just to make it look nicer. Now if you can teach me how to do some carpet I would be all set lol.

LOL I'm only running 700 more watts on my ENTIRE system!

Ok gotcha. Chuck you are killing me. I thought you decided not to do a wall? I made some progress on mine as well. New amp and battery is in and playing. It looked like my batt/amp box was huge until I started putting stuff in there. It was late, came up one ring terminal short and had to use a couple random colors. Wiring looked pretty until the end when a few wires werent the right length. I'll go back and fix it all, just wanted to make sure all my wiring worked and hear the damn thing already. Luckily it all worked on the first go! Will probably do some cleaning up and carpet the top this weekend.

Why do you need 10? And thru the door?

Be aware that the outside diameter of a 4" aero is 7 1/4"

You set the ssf to the tuning frequency not the other way around. Although in your case being nonadjustable that isn't an option. You usually want the ssf 1/2 to 1/3 octave below tuning frequency. Also remember the ssf is a low frequency high pass filter. It has a rolloff and won't just magically cut off at that frequency. The reason for the ssf is because of the xmax curve. It is the lowest at tuning frequency but exponentially higher below.

Let's back up a little here. Port area is based on driver xmax and tuning. Not volume of the enclosure. I hate the rule of thumb. It may be a rough guideline but not the end all be all. Also it isn't just for port noise but port compression as well. Port length. You have to 90 degree the port wall at the width of the port to the perpendicular wall. You can't just 90 it anywhere. What is the compressor for? Air tools or do you off-road? Lastly I have an obsession for 80/90's Toyotas. So much so I currently own 3 haha.

I verified the 20mm xmax. For 33hz you would need around 35 sq inches. A 4" port is 12.5 sq inches lol You can get away with a little smaller on an aeroport but not THAT much.

Damn! That looks great. Awesome job. Glad you found the lows again. Waiting for vid...

Box volume no. Driver xmax and tuning frequency.