dbsupra

$1700 installed? Seriously sean you need to stop taking things to a shop.

It might be worthwhile to corner weigh your car. If a 3rd blows it might not be the strut causing it. Or you have some sorta weird suspension geometry going on to cause a bind. Don't be hasty and start parting stuff out. I'm sure we can get it figured out. I know it gets frustrating.

I understand what you are saying but I think the confusion comes from the terminology you are using. There is a difference in sounding good and SQ. The goal of a SQ is to reproduce the music as accurately as possible. Which then involves frequency response, staging, etc.

SSA recommends 2.5-3.0 cubes tuned 28-33hz as optimal ported.

If you are getting all that I would go ahead and upgrade and maybe even stainless brake lines. They do help. Or is it already at the shop and they are doing the work already? Hell being that far into it I would drain the fluid and replace it with some motul. About the tires I think you should get some vogues. That would be mad tite!

You would be surprised how well real high performance brakes work. EBay rotors and AutoZone pads don't cut it. I know a couple guys running tc's on the track and don't have a BBK. I told Sean I'd help him with his car but after putting the belt back on at slam I may retract that lol.

Rotora rotors and porterfield pads. I could see where a big brake kit would be spendy but I don't know why it would be necessary on his car.

I got a demo at slam. I thought it sounded great!

$900 for brakes? What the hell are you getting? I didn't spend half that on the supra.

It's a good idea to do the big 3. Why don't you install it yourself? You learn a lot and save money. The forum is here to help.

My son and I had a good time. I was hoping to hear dave's van but never got to. All the IAK guys were super cool. I have a handful of pics and vids to share. Pics weren't that great since I left my cam in the wrong program mode tho.

I use my ear to tune. Problem is a lot of people don't know what they are listening for. I use -3db because most sources don't peak that high and it gives some overhead. I can't ride around with everyone and control the volume knob for them. This is how I was taught when I started in car audio. I think of it much like I tune cars. My supra makes the most hp at 12.3:1 a/f. But that is on the ragged edge of detonation. Bit of bad gas or a weird blip in my timing map and it gets ugly. So I tune for 11.5-11.8 Sure it leaves some hp on the table but I have a margin of safety. Perhaps I've been going about this the wrong way. But it has worked in my experience. That being said I'm always open to learning new things. That's what.brought me here in the first place.

Proper enclosure will matter the most. You can have the perfect sub and amp combo but in a crap enclosure and it will sound like crap. That being said you can pick up a refurb sundown for a good price at db-r. Something like a 1200 or 1500 would work well. Crescendo, audiopipe and hifonics would be some other alternatives.

You guys make it out to be like rocket science. Yes there is no way to set it and forget it for maximum output 24/7. But no reason to make it overly complex. You can use a dmm or o scope to set it. Use a series of different test tones in the bandwidth you have the sub set for. I usually use -3db. Set the head unit how you want it. And whatever you do don't use bass boost. Tune the gain until you see clipping then back it off a touch with a scope. Or you can use the math method and use a dmm. Sure music is dynamic and this won't allow you to squeeze every last watt out of the amp but it is a good way to safely set it. Most importantly however is you need to train your ear to what clipping and mechanical limits sound like to keep yourself out of trouble. * This is my humble opinion and take it for what it is worth. I'm sure there are going to be people that disagree with me but this is how we have done it for 19 yrs.

Where is the burnt sub in relation to the port? Pic of enclosure? Could be unloading.

Yes if you run a sub with a pole vent you need atleast 1" clearance. Some are designed with the vent in the ring so you can run the sub flat up against the wood if you wanted.

Basically it is a box that wires to your factory steering controls. Then that connects to a small infrared sensor. You program the box with the headunit remote much like a tv programmable remote. Then you mount the sensor pointed towards the head unit. It is very small, about the size of an LED. Typically you can drill a small hole in the dome light lens and mount it in there. You can also mount it under the lip of the console lid but often if you have a drink sitting there it can block it. I can't remember the brand but our local shop sells the whole setup for around $60. You could probably find it online for cheaper. I'll find the name if you are interested.

I used to work at a shop where i repaired car stereo equipment. I can tell you the JVC cd mech is terrible and they haven't improved over the years. If you don't plan on using CDs then that won't be an issue. The integrated amp isn't that great either but sounds like you will be using an amp anyway. You can get an adapter to use your iPod for the alpine and you can also get a line of sight repeater setup to use for your steering wheel controls so long as it has a remote.

Thats great news!!! Wonder what "problem" pioneer found? New grille looks mean!

Summit racing has them. We have used them on a few drag cars. I would opt for the heavy duty 300a over the standard 175a. Would also recommend using the moroso and not a knock off. The cheaper ones are cheap for a reason as my buddy found out http://www.summitracing.com/parts/MOR-74102/

I would go for 2 cubes and 30 sqin of port tuned at 35hz. I've tried a few different designs with mine in that range and I found this to be a good setup for what I like. You may find you want something higher or lower tuned. Either way I would shoot for the higher end of airspace since you aren't overpowering the sub and don't skimp on the port area. Lastly I prefer to use Torres calculator instead of RE. It is a little more accurate.

Be sure you install the inline fuse as close to the battery as possible. I also prefer anl type fuses. Unless you buy a high quality agu fuse you could likely end up with a voltage drop due to the poor solder on the end caps. Atc fuses aren't bad but not easy to find in high amperage and not a lot of choices for a fuse holder. Some people don't add an inline fuse on the big 3 wire to the alternator. I always do though. I don't have any power wire on my truck that isn't fused. Let me know how you like the ppi amp. I just bought the big 4 channel but haven't installed it yet.

Yes I planned on using screws that will drive thru all layers. My concern was the entire 12lb assembly would be supported entirely by 1/8" pressboard and 5/16" oak. Wasn't sure if that was sturdy enough as is. I thought about going ahead and replacing the oak with 3/4" birch but not sure how it would look using a 9" ring with a 6.5" driver externally. How do you guys normally secure a door pod? Bolt it thru the exterior door panel and use fender washers on the back side? I'd like to get a solid plan as I plan to work on it this weekend. Thanks!

Hmm. Now that you guys got me thinking it might have been a slight oversight in planning. The baffle ring is 9" in diameter and the birch spacer mount is 7". The idea was the 9" ring was to give me a flat air tight foundation and would fit behind the door panel. The 7" ring mounted to the outside of the door panel. I went out of my way to make the 9" ring solid. But the spacer and driver will all be mounted thru the pressboard of the door panel into the 5/16 ring. It won't hit any sheetmetal. Being that is is 12lb and driving around and shutting the door it may want to crack or just pull thru. My choices would be to lay some resin and mat across the existing ring to reinforce my mounting service or replace it with something thicker. I was trying to minimize the hole I had to cut in the door panel. Land cruiser parts aren't just laying around every corner. If I made the ring thicker that would mean I would have to cut a 9" hole vs 5 3/4". Thoughts?

Yes, I only used this ring so I had a something to start with. It was an odd shaped opening and couldn't begin to bolt anything to it as it was. It is 5/16" oak. I tried to find some plexi or something of the sort, but I didn't think that would play too friendly with my router bit. I have a 3/4" birch spacer ring that the driver bolts to, then the baffle ring you see in the pics. With the multiple layers and the wood blocks mounted behind it is actually quite sturdy, even without the top ring on. Do you think it needs to be reinforced more than that? And if so why? This is my first attempt of anything of this caliber. I'm open to any suggestions, as I'd rather do it right the first time. Edit: I forgot to mention the filler pieces are 1/4" oak and the supporting blocks behind it are 3/4" birch.