dbsupra

Looks nice! You did a good job on the kerf. That box looks huge, maybe your hatch is just that small?

Our parts guy left so I can't be sure where he got it. I believe it was from McMaster Carr. I did find a pic but the places I saw online were places I've never heard of.

Could you get some plate steel then center drill and tap for all thread? That way you can adjust it to fit how and where you want. I like that idea. Usually I just use dowel rod.

I've used the original without problems for quite some time. I upgraded to the pro version which has a lot more features but never could get it to work. It would always crash or show errors when I loaded the T/S parameters. Fits of rage and nearly throwing my laptop under a moving bus. Andrew Vaserfirer from HTS figured out the solution. After doing it exactly how he told me it works perfect! I wanted to pass along the info since I know several people have had issues. Again, this is all compliments of Andrew. Ensure that 'Auto calculate unknowns' is on even if you have all the data. This is recommended because WinISD Pro can be very picky about the data and if it is even 1/1000th off it will reject the data so it is just easier to let it do the work. You might notice some small differences in the values from the calculated and the provided, but very rarely are these large enough to substantially effect modeling. This is the recommended method for entering driver parameters [if at any point you need to change the unit of a parameter simply click on the displayed unit and it will change]: Enter Mms and Cms which results in Fs being calculated. If Mmm and Cms are not known enter Fs. If Fs and Mmm or Cms are known enter Fs and the other known value. Enter Sd, Bl and Re. This will result in more auto calculations being made, but Qms and Qts will be blank. If Re is not available, go ahead and enter Sd and Bl. Enter either Qms or Rms, whichever is available, generally Qms is available. If Mms and/or Cms were not provided for input, now input Qes. This will cause some other fields to auto calculate. Enter Hc, Hg and Pe if available. These are not required, however Pe (RMS Power Rating) will give a good idea of how much power signal input to model with. Enter the number of voice coils. NOTE: Drivers using dual voice coils may cause the Bl and Re parameters to change when changing the connection wiring from parallel to series. Be sure to monitor these when changing the connection option, but WinISD should automatically change these values properly. Correct Znom (nominal impedance) if needed. Many times this will change to 6 and should be 2 or 4... or the ultimate resistance (in ohms) you intend to run based on the voice coil configuration and your connection setting (parallel or series). Enter Xmax and any other missing parameters if known and continue. DO NOT change any of the blue auto calculations. If they are only slightly different, this is okay. If they are off significantly, contact the manufacturer or vendor of the driver. If you want you can also tab over to the dimensions page and enter 'Dimensions'. Don't worry about the 'Advanced parameters' tab. The steps outlined should cause parameters to be calculated such that they can be saved without error. If there are problems saving then too many parameters were entered that are likely very close to the calculated value, but WinISD wants the mathematical ideal. Just delete one of the problem values it shows up and try to save after it has been calculated and keep trying until it works. In my experience only Fs needs to be calculated to continue. Read more: WinISD Pro Tutorial and Download (A detailed guide on how to use WinISD Pro) - Home Theater Forum and Systems - HomeTheaterShack.com

I've heard the pioneer and wasn't that impressed. The only shallow subs I have heard that sounded good were the Memphis. I think they are the reference series and about 3" depth. Buddy has the Vega stealth subs and really likes them. I haven't heard them yet but I know they were more than $150. Probably closer to twice that.

What about flush mounting flange collars instead? That way you don't have to drill a giant hole in the box. Yeah you can silicone it but it wouldnt be much different than making a hole for a terminal cup. I've siliconed the help out of those and used a gasket and they still seam to leak over time. We use some flanges at work and they are low profile and pretty nice looking.

Something is rotten in the state of Denmark. I dont even use the LPF on my amp. I have it turned off and use the headunit so I can tweak on the fly. If you are getting vocals in the sub that would mean that both the HU and the amp LPF isn't working and I find that unlikely.

On my phone it looked like it had a texture. Looks good! Are those still the galvanized bolts for the terminals?

Badass bro! What is that coating? Looks more than straight paint. In for vidzzzz

Keep in mind the winisd plot isn't exactly representative of actually inside a car. Also with your headunit I've had that problem before. I wired the power directly to the battery and ground to chassis. It solved the problem on mine. Might be worth a shot.

That is a square port, not a slot port. Like this

No problem! Using a flared round port isn't too hard to build, you just have to be sure you have enough length since it isn't near as easy to 90*. To determine port area for a round port: Radius x Radius x Pi Example: 6" port is 3 x 3 x Pi = 28.26 sqin Round ports are lighter weight if that is a concern, but cost a lot more than a couple pieces of wood. Aero ports (flared) are a little more efficient than a standard round port so you can get away with a little less port area. But you have to take into account the flare end in tuning the length. You have to add 1" per port if using flared on both ends. Also, I assume the port area suggested is per sub, so keep that in mind. You may want to double check that.

Keep It Simple Stupid = KISS Your pics didn't post because you don't have them hosted. You can just link it off your pc. Either upload to photobucket or the like, or you can add as an attachment in the post.

I don't know what space you have to work with. But based on Drew's recommendation and a minor tweak: 22.5 H 38 W 24 D Square port: 17 x 7.5 with 24 length 7.06 cft net 127.5 sqin port area 18.07 sqin per cube 38.2hz tune That is a lot closer and best I can come up with in 5 minutes lol You can tweak around on that to get exactly what you need.

Port area has nothing to do with the length of the port. It is the size of the opening. 14" x 3" would be 42 sq in

Welcome! I see your confusion. They are talking about port AREA not port length. Port area is length x height for a slot port. A 14 x 3 would be 42 sq inches. Once you determine that you calculate the length accordingly to tune the frequency. I recommend Torres calculator. If you do a Google search you can download it for free. I use it to design all my enclosures.

You need a lot more port area. A 1x8 is way small. It is tricky to build a single 8 box tuned correctly. It will not be a small box. You could try a passive radiator. Jacob did some testing with a psi 10" with good results.

Aside from what has been said, I will also add that MDF you have to drill pilot holes or it will split. Other big thing is if it gets wet it is pretty well done. Be sure you use a good high count blade to cut birch as well. I use 60T or 80T on mine. MDF is a little less particular. Ya know, you are terrible about PM's. I sent you a couple and you haven't replied. This being one of the topics lol Not in a hurry because I'm almost done with my new enclosure, but may be interested for another project.

Yes you can 90 it. The problem is the PSP brand is an odd size and difficult to find the right size. If you buy one made from pvc you can find it more easily.

Looks nice! How much space between the port and back wall?

Yep that is correct. 1" is for both flares. I just looked again. Sucks getting old.

Yes that is total length. If you are using an inner flare you will need to add another inch as well. I'm pretty sure they only include the single flare in the calculator.

Aeroports are a little more efficient than a standard round port. That being said it is a little on the small side but you may be able to get away with it. I myself would probably go with an 8" port, either sonotube or aeroport. I'm not real familiar with that sub and haven't built a box for one to play with. Also be sure you use the PSP calculator for length as the Torres is a little off for an aero.

Oh I forgot you had the monster external port. I did a lot of testing in my lc and found if it was too far from a wall the output was drastically reduced.

Updates?