Kangaroux

I would do like 1.5 - 1.75 cubes tuned to mid 30's or so...the xcons love the lows so I wouldn't go much over around 35hz

By saying max spl you sound as though you'll be competing, but then you mention music...do you mean you want to be able to get it pretty loud while still being musical? Cause you kinda contradict yourself

Do you have the high res version of this? I think I just found a new desktop wallpaper

31hz http://kiwi6.com/file/317734pqeq

Trade for an xcon 18? Please? lol

Sundown, not even a hard decision...

That zcon is getting down...very nice!

Sadly no If it was BC2 that would be a yes

Just skimmed through the vids so sorry if you mentioned it but it's a lot easier to do kerfs on just the bottom piece and then extrude everything up afterwards. At least for me it's more convenient to lay everything out on the bottom layer first and then raise it up when I'm done so the only thing left to do is add the top piece.

Fi builds each sub by hand to order. They aren't like most other companies where they are mass produced in china and when you order one they are just shipped to you. Expect build times to take a few weeks

How do you expect to fit it if it's so long? lol i thought the same when i recieved it but luckily it fits. i will post pics up tomorrow its a little to dark outside I was going for a pun there but...well, nevermind lol

How do you expect to fit it if it's so long?

The only thing I've ever wondered about cars setup to be very low road noise is it harder to hear sirens?

Skip to 2:20...good part starts at 3:00

I agree on using the BL. I've used the Q and the HDC3, both of which were in boxes tuned in the low 30's (32hz for the Q, 34hz for the HDC3). The Q peaked at around 38hz whereas the HDC3 was peaking at 46hz. The HDC3 didn't have a problem playing the lows though the Q definitely had more authority below 30hz. I also trust the build quality of the Q much more so than the HDC3...there's a reason the HDC3's are only rated for 1000w even though they can take quite a bit more thermally.

Stop, just stop. He's not wrong. However, he SHOULD say at a certain frequency. No method of setting gains can account for a range of frequencies, especially not when you want to get the maximum out of your amp. It's not a problem if you're talking about one frequency, though. Everything stays consistent. So you would have to play tones recorded at the same level and frequency that you used to set it? It is not a useful tool period. You don't get it...the tool has its uses when used for the correct purpose. Some people seem to think that purpose is setting your gain at a certain frequency and magically all of the other frequencies will be the same which isn't true. If you need clean power at a certain frequency (competing with very high power levels where clean power is a must) then it has its uses...but that's really all it can be used for. As for finding the clipping point of your headunit, while it may be different for every frequency, it at least gives you a reference point. All of this is dependent on what volume tone you use as well...you will get much more consistent results using a -0dB test tone rather than a -3dB. This is where you run into problems with music and the fact that its dynamic, and some songs will clip and some won't, which is why -0dB works well since no songs are that loud to begin with (and if they are, you should know right off the bat that it is and shouldn't be playing it on your system in the first place)

Stop, just stop. He's not wrong. However, he SHOULD say at a certain frequency. No method of setting gains can account for a range of frequencies, especially not when you want to get the maximum out of your amp. It's not a problem if you're talking about one frequency, though. Everything stays consistent.

The point of the battery is if you were playing music with the car idling or with the car off. Even if you don't do either of those things, I would still have a good size battery just in case. Say your alt for whatever reason stops working, or doesn't work as well as it should. Now your voltage is going to bomb hard because you don't have hardly any battery reserve to hold it up. Batteries and alts go hand in hand. You can't really just have one or the other, they both play an important part.

Guy likes his internet apparently. http://times-news.com/local/x328559063/Police-Man-throws-cat-out-window-punches-woman

Glad you are happy

I agree about 80hz or so but I have never heard of a sub blowing from playing to high, it may sound like shit but blow? This is false Send several hundred watts to your sub playing a midbass frequency and see how long it lasts...Very little excursion combined with a very high frequency means the sub has a hard time cooling itself. Add in any sort of clipping and the coil will heat up extremely fast

Set your low pass filter to around 80-100hz. DON'T SET IT TO THE HIGHEST SETTING (~250hz). You will blow your sub. The subsonic filter is something you're gonna have to play around with, but I usually set it to around 3-5hz below my box tuning. So for example, if my box was tuned to 32hz, I may set it to around 27-29hz.

0.5....

I've only gotten a couple migraines in the past but the ones I did get were heavy nausea, blotched/tunnel vision, very blurry...

Is it the version with a pole vent? Didn't think any of them had a pole vent lol but no it isn't it's only a few months old