ford302redneck

You have a short somewhere, and just because the amp doesn't have any burnt parts doesn't mean there isn't a problem. Make sure its not a problem with your wiring first. Then as suggested in this thread, contact the ones listed.

Or Epoxy. And is usually suggested if you haven't done a recone before. Since your asking that question, I'll assume you haven't.

Are these still the same as they was +6 years ago? If soooo they sure ain't worth suggesting compared to other drivers that cost less and are up to date. IMO

uhh Yeah they do.... You expect the dealer to not make any money off of em? I know dealer cost, and MAP. Which nobody is suppose to sell under MAP, but internet reps seem to do whatever and undercut the dealers, just to make 30 dollars.

In the begining he had a AQ2200d, sooooo. But regardless, why didn't Ohio Gen catch it if it had a problem in the begining when he sent it back? Unless they didn't want to do warranty work on it. And Mechman, I know I gave you a hard time in that one thread, still didn't change the fact I know yall do very good work and have a quality product with good customer service.

Another thread? Was that called for? For one, if your posts are disabled on your other name, there is a reason why. For two, why would you rather waste money on shipping a box to whereever you supposely are? Even if your "friend" is helping you, I don't see it being cheap. Regardless, posting in this section will not get a box made for you. Fi doesn't make boxes, and you need to contact somebody else.

Why can't you use a normal charger for a AGM? Are you saying you need a special alternator too? I'm curious on exactly what you have to say. Seeing you have no idea what type of charger he already has. Which some normal chargers can charge AGM's just fine, and only know until you research and find out. But jumping to a assumtion isn't helping anybody.

Go find it local. Advance Auto, Lowes, Home Depot, and countless others stock it. It doesn't have to be Loctite brand, I use Permatex. Just stay away from the "2 ton" or "ton" type of epoxy. And 10 minutes should be fine, just depends on how fast you want it to set. I used 5 mins on 10"-12", but 10 min on 15"-18" before you got to apply a lot more glue. That's what takes so long, actually dropping in the kit is quick.

I mean I'm not doubting the time,effort, and money put into them, and the small market, but I can see why because not many will drop a grand on one alt. I'm not sure exactly what other company has, but I think one has a 350amp that was a good bit cheaper, with ~200 at idle. I'm just saying, not trying to compare. I know DC is doing things nobody else is, but I guess the saying goes, Quality doesn't come cheap. It does seem now, if you want a rather large setup, your going to at least spend the same money on electrical upgrades, as you did on the audio part. Take a 3000watt amp($600), two 15s($700). Your going to need two batteries($700) and one alternator($600). So pretty much equal give or take. *Example only prices may vary.

Holy Hell, I didn't realize the 390 cost so much. Why such a huge increase from the 270? It can't double to make it.

Why do you have phase set at 165 degrees? Either set it at zero if you have it wired correctly. Or 180 if you have it wired out of phase.

Who are you using locally? Honestly, I would get a quote from Mechman, and try to go that route if possible. Even if it cost a little more and without a alt for a few days, it will be well worth not having to worry about it for a good while.

Yeap, I told him the whole time, voltage fluxuating will cause idle the fluxuate also. But noooooooooooooo. That's what getting old and hard headed does to a man. Yeah, I think its time for some more videos too. I haven't even heard this thing since the SOB show.

You didn't read it , i said CAN. never said he had to try it.(and not at 25hz) (deleted it, he probably hasn't read it yet.) You also said it could have torn from clipping, and that just isn't so. It wasn't heat either. Those were the only two options you said it CAN be, you are wrong in both cases. My original thoughts was, Damn clipping directly causes mechanical problems? I guess that's what being on SMD does for you. You'll learn clipping is the worst possible thing for a driver in every possible way and need to buy a DD1 right away. Heck now you need a tool to properly set your crossover precisely, because being a few frequencies off on a sub(or any) setup will make a difference.

I would get killed on a 4 wheeler but Brandon may want one. Nah, no need to be negative Even though, I'd hate to be the one who you got the 4 wheeler from if you did die. Your loyal customers would probably kill me. Lol. Sooo that may be a bad idea, no need for us both to die over a amp. I need other things before I can focus on bass anyways, tires being one. So I'll wait and try to trade for a NS-1. Go big or go home. Lol.

Just find a picture of the 1st Gen BTL with the original style leads, and there you go. I bet they're hundreds of pictures of BTL's if you just take a few minutes to search.

Haha - got any cars ? I do I have a 1994 aerostar good condition runs and drives great just needs a battery.lmfao I got acess to one of those too. It is the extended one with AWD. But to bad those suck for SPL, or I would of built one. My uncle use to love them, and had three different ones over the years. Buy them really cheap, drive them till something major breaks, then buys another. The AWD has a aluminum driveshaft that fits 94-95 Mustang GT's also.

Haha - got any cars ? Actually yes, but I doubt you would want it. I want a 4500d bad, but low funds and I need other more important things first. I am thinking about what I might have you would want though. Lol. A 4 wheeler? I actually have all kind of good jumk laying around. I got a almost brandnew Ford 460 crate long block motor. Two E4od trans, basically a whole 94 F-350 but not complete. Got few old tractors that could be restored. And plenty of other stuff. And that's not even part of it so when I say I got plenty of junk, I mean it.

What year Mustang? Drek on youtube has 3 18s in his 99-04 Stang, and puts up damn good numbers. So if you have a 94-04, I would suggest contacting him. If I'm not mistaken, twistchild420 had a wall in his stang also. Maybe he could give you some pointers as well. I have a 94, but never considered a wall, but do know a lot about the car overall. Edit: Reading>Me. I see now you said no wall. So I guess ignore most of my post. But I still think Twisted has had a no wall in his before too? I might be wrong though.

Willing to trade? Lol.

What sub do you have? Also, box size and tuning if ported. Usually under normal coniditions dustcap glue joints rarely fail. Just want to try and help to ensure this doesn't happen again. Also, I recommend 5-10 min epoxy also. I usually buy clear Permatex(brand name), this can be found at almost anywhere. Color doesn't matter, but for a dustcap, clear would be best. Just make sure you don't get confused with "ton" type epoxy. This is not the same, and doesn't work near as well. Example, 2ton. Stay away from it. Stick with min.

The alternator doesn't have enough output at the idle RPM of your car, that's why when tapping the gas raising RPM and producing more current. Just because its rated at 275, doesn't mean it puts it all out once you start the engine. Most alt's only put at around half output at idle unless its designed around a lot of output at idle, usually the top end output is cut from this. Basically you can't have a ton of output at idle then a lot more at higher RPM. Either a lot at idle and a little more on the top, or a lot of the top, with less at idle. Also, alternators have a "cut on" RPM basically. This means below a certain RPM the output is very low, then once it hits the right RPM, it starts producing alot more current. So, it has nothing to do with the companies alt, but more to do with your cars pulley setup and or idle RPM.

Honestly, in your install, I don't see the need for adding the BP option anyways. Heck, I've played my Gen 1 Q past is mechanical limits for minutes at a time and never had any problems. I know yours was just a thing that happens, but for the most part, I don't see how people break these things without knowing. Granted I had double rated RMS, it would of still took me trying really hard to break it. Also, at the time I didn't know my Head unit clipped at my normal listening level, so it was also being clipped. And still I could play it full tilt on 2k RMS clipped just past the mechanical limits for over a minute without breaking anything. After 1 minute, it would start to smell a little, but with clipped double RMS, I could understand why. I tried to burp it on 5k, now it didn't like that at alllll, even at/around tuning. I'm sure in the right box it would of been possible though.

Still, dogs will kill chickens also, unless they are trained not to usually. I've still seen dogs who never thought about harming a chicken, one day murder as many as they can. There instinct eventually get the best of them.

Sad news I must say.