ford302redneck

Its hard to say without contacting each company to find out if they have/had access to per say vehicle. Usually best is find the closest shop to you willing to build one and go there. Where are you located? I wouldn't expect this to be super cheap either.

I think I'm going to try and fix my MTX and get as far along as I can before I buy the DVD. Guess semi like a last resort, if I can't learn on my own, I'll try that, and if I fail, maybe rethink if I can do it or not. I know where a Memphis 4kw is broke, I'm about to die to buy it, but need to hold up until I'm sure I can fix it. Also, I need a good soldering before I actually try taking apart another amp. The one I got just doesn't do the job, and I've already messed up a few eyelets(I researched repairing them, and those kits are outrageous to say the least.)

:facepalm: I guess my sarcasm didn't come across like I intended. The wires aren't moving cause of current, its because they are sitting right beside a cooling holes on the motor and the air is moving them.

I wasn't cutting down DC by no means when I compared to others options. Each has there pros and cons, only major con of the 390 is price. Lol. Luckily, I can add another alternator easily and two with decent output should be enough for me. But I do got a question, does DC have a 300+ with less idle for cheaper price? Since I'll have two, idle doesn't matter to me. Just as long between the two it can keep up with the duties of the trucks electrical, I'm happy. As I rarely listen to my setup at idle, and if I do, press of a button, and I'm idling at 1800RPM.

I usually don't do this, and I hate to give this idiot more views but this was just to good. http://youtu.be/O2hraSZ55cE This is the first I've heard of this, and I didn't know you could see wiring move when current passes through it. I guess you learn something new everyday. This guy blocked me a while back for informing his XS Power batteries wasn't 6+ years old, as he stated.(Even though I don't know why he was making that excuse to begin with) so I can't comment to find out more on this wonderful knowledge he's giving out.

Fi resolved this over 22 days ago. There is absolutely no need for you to dig up old shit you are not even involved in. People reading the thread have no way of knowing the issue has been resolved. If it had, it should have been posted. This is a public forum for information and he has every right to get involved in any thread he damn well pleases, just the same as you do, so next time be careful with the keyboard. I actually posted to help both parties out. And if anybody else has the same problem, know to keep in touch instead of waiting months in between. And how was this "diggin up old shit"? It was on the first page in this section? Not like it was lost and forgotten. And/or this is going to give Fi a bad rep. But its ok, I know your out to be a smart ass towards me cause I have been one to you in the past. But you had no idea my attentions for posting.

I'm not trying to sound ike a Dick or nothing, but why so long inbetween trying to find out info? I can understand not wanting to be the aggervating type, but reminding and asking wouldn't of been a bad idea. I know these guys are busy as hell, and if they pass the info on to whoevers job it is then never hear anything else, they think its done. I mean we all know shit happens, and can't really blame anybody. Hopefully this time around everything comes through. Just try to keep in touch until you resieve it and then tell them you got it, so there's no more confusion. I'm not saying blow up the forum everyday, but don't let another two months pass.

I would assume the new ones are also stronger even though it was rare for them to break.

Those Soundstream amps aren't cheap and really are no different than the old 6500d and 10000d. Guts wise. Sounds like you need research a little more instead of throwing out ideas for people to agree on.

And doing 146-150 on the old TermLab is like a 140-144 today(I think)... But regardless, what was the point in that rant? It has nothing to do with the topic at hand?

Of course, but so far I want this to be a hobby, not a career, so I don't think I need to go that far. I believe I can learn a good bit on my own, just finding the info I can learn from is the hard part.

I'm not exactly pointing at you as the problem, so hope you didn't take it that way. In reality all tinsels under the right conditions can fry, so its not just the type Fi uses. I know I like the sandwich style a WHOLE lot better than the original. And I know the failure rate was cut drastically. Not that the old tinsels was the problem, it was more user error that would cause them to "snap".

If that was all I needed to know I'd be set. That's what got me started really, and his DVD is what I was talking about buying. His website already has a bunch of good info, figured the DVD had to be worth the money.

I don't see how your frying up tinsels with only 1600RMS? I have half the tinsels has a BTL, and has put upwards of 2k on my Q, without any problems. I was literately reaching mechanical limits and clipping(I didn't know at the time, I oscoped my headunit to find it clips at my normal listening volume) and hasn't had any problems. So having double the tinsels and same power, I don't see how your frying them.

No you don't. Trust me, I used CA glue my first recone, its not as easy. Also, I'm not a 100% sure, but I know the old SSD and BL had a shorter bigger gauge coil(IIRC), I'm not 100% up to date on which coils which sub uses. It could even be a coil from a non Fi sub. A long time ago I wanted a flatwound coil for my Q, but I don't think they stocked the coil you got. Only thing about FW, it could possibly change the way it sounds a little.

I was going to say this but wasn't a 100%.

Only place "soft" glue will benefit is the dustcap, so it will have more give before the cap blows off. This is still rare though, and nothing to worry about. I've never had one come off with epoxy. I have had em come off with CA glue, but I used accelerator, and it wasn't the best glue joint, so it was completely my fault.(I was a reconing noobie, first one I did)

I'd really like to find a alt that does 350+ on top end while around 100 at idle around ~$400-500. I remember seeing on youtube a while back some guy supposedly was building a 700 amp alt, but never seen/heard anything else about it. I just couldn't figure out how he suppose had a 700amp and nobody else has one close to that.

As far as tools, I'm slowly getting the basics. What all you listed is well over a thousand dollars, which is rather much to start off with. Just getting things in order which I'll need. I have realized a good soldering station is important. I'm semi new to proper soldering(I just recently learned how to do it correctly). I got access to a oscope, got a good buddy with one I'ma probably end up borrowing until I think its gone far enough for me to buy one. Like I said, I want to make sure I can do this before wasting money on tools that I won't use.

That same grand can get you 400 amps at idle if you know how to spend it. And if you can fit multiple alts. Take tejcurrent bracket(not now but that's beside the point), and 3 other stockers. That's around a grand, with 400 at idle, and 520 peak. Of course there are some downsides to this, but also some pros. Same goes with the DC, it has both. Just got to think of what fits your install best, and budget.

Ok, so I'm very curious on learning about electronics, and repairing/diagnosing. First, I want to get opinions on where do I need to start. I've read a pretty good bit of info so far, but seem I've limited to what I can learn without doing it. As I'm a more hands on type, only way I can learn and understand is if I do it. And or if I'm confused about something, having somebody connect the dots I'm missing, then it clicks and I understand. So far I haven't found much on actually repairing car audio amps, most is just electronics in general. Which I guess is the same, just seems I get over my head easy because I don't know the basics yet. Basically I'm looking for pointers/direction. I've seen the CD rom some guy sells, and read some info he's gave on a forum. Seems to really know his stuff, and eager to help anybody, which is good. So I've thought about buying it, but like to read some reviews or talk to somebody who has learned a lot from it. I have a practice amp I guess I'm going to try and get to going. I've already started with the little info I do have. I've probably already messed it up, but way I see it, it was already broke and was of no use, so can't hurt it no more. Any help would be great. Just trying to further my mind and something to keep me busy that I could possible make a few dollars.(Buying,fixing, then selling) but that's not that important, just rather pay for my audio habit.

Email IA. Make sure you included the dealers name who told you that.

Ok Mr understanding. Being surprised at a price and complaining is two different things. A lot of just shocked at the price difference. But none the less, if somebody doesn't like the price, they don't have to buy it. I don't think nobody is really comparing to a stock alt either. I think it was more of a surprise than complaining. Even though there isn't much to complare the 390xp to, price wise. But me personally, I can do without great idle for a fairly cheaper alt. As I have a high idle settin for my truck, and I normal only listen to bass while driving.

Dries to hard eh? I have a epoxy reconed sub going on 3 years, and I beat the ever living shit out of it. Soooooo yeah. Be my guest and use "softer" glue, don't come back and complain the glue joints failed.

Well he didn't have the 3500d in the beginning, so seems that was poor choice of words to describe your idea.