dopey

My new sig.

No one can argue with the first pics. But the second and third ones don't really look like patent infringement to me. The W7 has the screwedup mounting system...the ED doesn't (Ben probably couldn't figure it out) The cone on the second pic is a similar design TO MANY cones....hope JL isn't going to push THAT. And the bottom ED pic, looks COMPLETELY different from the W7. And completely different from the top ED pic. :???:

Whoops!

Fuck Shit Ass

I'm not bitter AT ALL!!! PLEASE do not mistake my quest for knowledge and truth, with vengance. I wish NOTHING but the best for USAmps, and was SERIOUSLY considering an AX for my BTL just a few months ago. I have built my own class A tube guitar amp, and THAT is why this stuck out at me. Lately, with all the hype surrounding audiophilia and tubes and Class A and point to point and....EVERYTHING else, I have noticed that some very specific terminology has made its way into car audio. USAmps and the TU series seems to be at the forefront of this...With people looking at your amps as audiophile-grade equipment, you WILL get people that know the terms, and KNOW WHAT THEY MEAN. You will absolutely shoot yourself in the foot if the wrong people hear you say something like what was said earlier. Audiophiles are a picky group, and PERCEIVED value is just as important as actual value. I just want the truth, and I believe your customers deserve it. Even the one's that don't understand it. I am not upset/angry/bitter, and I appologize for coming across that way. The internet makes it easy for inflection to get lost at the keyboard.

I want another BTL but I want a 15". I can rebasket and recone it myself. Like how much would sell the motor for? On a side note...do you know Olsen's photography in Lincoln? I used to date his daughter.

"bolt the subs in top and bottom with some all thread of just regular bolts for instance" ummm...what? allthread would need a bolt on the outside for it to hold tight, and regular bolts could be unscrewed.

How much would you be willing to sell it for?

Could you get 24v fans to run at 12v...making them spin slower and produce less noise?

Someone with $1500 to spend on a few sets of RCA's can spell "Enhanced" properly too. .....on the other hand....what's the old saying? A fool and his money....

This has to be a joke. 6x9's and "dolphin backflip mod" tipped me off. That and the $1500 budget for RCA's in a car.

Sauza Hornitos tequila Meyers dark rum (or Appleton Estate) Bacardi light rum Danzka Vodka (Ketel One is good too, but I prefer Danzka) Bombay Sapphire gin Johnnie Walker Black scotch (can be used where whisky is called for, and tastes MUCH better) Jagermeister (must have IMO) Gran Marnier Kahlua Triple Sec Sweet and Sour Coke Sierra Mist Club Soda

I don't really want to get into a he said/she said sorta thing... I'd just like an answer here. I have been doing my research, and wouldn't post anything like this if I wasn't POSITIVE that I'm correct. I used to be a HUGE USAmps fan. In the ~1996 timeframe...they were the amps to own. Since then it seems that they have been moving production offshore, and as I had in my sig for awhile, they were using a "modified" USacoustics board in one of their amps. Not exactly the quality the USAmps name earned. If this dude is the VP.....well.....maybe that says a WHOLE lot about their operations.

I use #10 1.5" deck screws.

I think he should get a new title instead of "Member"... Perhaps "Helpful One" or similar. Or let HIM pick it!

Whatcha gonna buy?

Class D is a switching amp. Class E is a more effecient switching amp. If an amplifier's output devices pass a full music waveform, swing to swing, it must run in pure class-A, which is the least efficient way of amplifying a music signal. This is why I asked him to CLARIFY his statements. Class D and Class A are VERY VERY VERY different. I didn't know he was an EMPLOYEE!!! That makes this even more important.

BTL 12 and SAZ1500d.

Merlin amps are NOT open-ended...and they DO NOT see the full 360* signal. You shouldn't tell people things like that.

Flatwound coil (+$20)

Sweet! Good Job Tej!

Without knowing the situation... You could buy a 4channel amp and then run the HU to that and that to the speaks. It'd be easiest to mount the NEW amp close to where the old one was. ALL speakers have a + and - comming from some sort of amplifier. If you don't know how to tell the difference, use a battery and touch one wire to one side and the other wire to the other side of the battery...I'd use a little AA or AAA.

thank you much

Better Sound Quality and a little lower power handling.

You didn't turn the volume down?