theabunai

well you can't have one side of the spectrum without the other side LOL

I seen how sundown amps perform, i seen how their customer service is, i seen how they handle their warranties..... i've seen enough to know that if i were in your shoes, i would get a sundown...

not to mention great news on the audio industry.... If it weren't for that site i would've never found that video on bassboost by eD... Now i can show people instead of tell them about bassboosts....

the Qts is a little low for getting optimum results from sealed... It doesn't mean you CANT run it sealed but you won't be getting maximum results from a sealed enclosure..... Where as you could get full potential of the sub in a vented/ported enclosure...

carquest makes an AGM ?

Dopey ^ theres your new Sig bro LOL

Phew, was just noting to self "stay clear of Arkansas" J/k

Sealed ~ just cause i want to be different

I have been to a bunch of car audio shops Hell i used to work in one a couple years back... 2 car audio shops i respect and trust.... for a few reasons.... i remember when i was interested in Fi and they never heard of it but instead of knocking it they said when i get it bring it down so they could have a listen to the subs... they also wanted some T/S specs on it so if a customer had one they would be prepared ahead of time to build a box correctly.... the other shops pretty much say the same chit.... "I never heard of Fi, I wouldn't buy it" "Fi is a no name brand probably built in china/Korea/Taiwan" I never go back to those shops... I hate ignorance..

163+ WHAT WAS THAT !!! WHAT !!! I CANT HEAR WHAT !!! LOL Man that is freaking insane i can't even imagine what 150+ is like... Anyways on to a more serious tone

suburban has more cargo room then the yukon ? Damn i haven't looked in the suburban in a long time

Hmmm Thought you needed TS specs of the sub to tune correctly (Xmax, Displacement etc) ?? Eh i guess so for a "ballpark" tuning

You have 2 10,000 watt amps ? http://www.soundsolutionsaudio.com/forum/i...?showtopic=1118 here is an excerpt "A typical Class D amplifier is about 75% efficient at full output. A typical Class A/B amplifier is about 60% efficient at full output. Essentially, divide the power output at full capacity by the efficiency, then divide by the test voltage. For example, an amplifier is 75% efficient @ full capacity (1000 RMS with 14.4 volts). This means that current draw will be 92.6 amperes with a sine wave at full capacity and, obviously, less current draw at less than full capacity." now that is a 1K watt amp at 14. volts and it only draws 92 amps if your class D amps draws 1,000 amps that means it's essentially a 10,000 watts a piece from what i gathered... what kind of amps? I have 2 merlin md.1d 1K watts class "d" amps 1 soundstream rubicon 502 100 watts per channel class "a/b" amp All on one yellow top in the back stock batt up front stock alt and big 3 ... My volatge is steady at 13.7 volts and when slamming hard and rarely drops below 13V with the car on....

steve I am learning a lot on these forums and i would like to hit up some of your experience... Question is when the subs face each other like that will there be any negative or positive effects... like when one sub pushes out will it have any effect on the sub on the opposite wall ? thank you for your time and knowledge...

2 batts get my vote... IMO i don't like to sacrifice performance for aesthetics

I think the saz-1500d on stock SSD's 2 SAE-1000d on SSD's with the flatwound coil OR 2 SAE-1000d on SSD's with copper coils AND BP option just my opinion or more so what i would do in your shoes mad...

Well this is how i have mine all set up Alternator ----- fuse box - starting battery \ \---fuse----trunk battery------fuse----distro block------sub amp(s) and front stage amp... So i got two wries coming off the alt... one to the fuse box of the car which then goes to the starting battery....... And another from the alternator to a 250AMp ANL inline fuse then to the trunk batt then to another 250amp ANL fuse then to a power distro block then to the amps....

LOL @ acidburn yeah good thing he is gonna "vertically biamp" them

Bro no problem drink it up just don't drive man

If bare power wire was touching bare ground wire then a lot more then his amp would be hot... I didn't even know walmart sold an amp kit.. Yeah tej I've never seen 5 guage car audio wire before.... Don't know why he went 5 instead of standard 4 gauge or 2 gauge.. When i was an installer back in the days i was always taught 2 things NEVER take a short cut on wires (routing, connecting, gauge and length) If you have to question and wonder if the power/ground wire is to small a gauge then it probably is...

Well it won't mess anything up but it isn't safe either.....

i believe it's low voltage at high volume... (a 1ohm set-up with a 60amp alt is a bit pushing the envelope) If you can scope the amp meter the voltage while playing it and see how low the voltage drops... Have you done the usual Big three extra bat in the rear ?

5 guage? Where did you find 5 guage way to small in my opinion but such an odd guage

I actually had the same questions you had a while back I have a stock scion battery up front and a yellow top in the rear... Not one issue... system runs fine no more light diming... If you plan on running the system A LONG time with the engine off then i would recommend an isolator... If you're only gonna really run it while driving then none needed... I pound my stereo with the vehicle off for maybe at the longest 1/2 hour and no problems with the one up front

No isolator no problems steady voltage at 13.4V the batt would depend on the Alt size and the current draw of your system