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emperorjj1

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Everything posted by emperorjj1

  1. getting off that cap shouldnt be much of an issue. you have to be careful but once its off you can ca glue that inner cap back on (the top is really cosmetics where the inner really is the "dust cap")
  2. with any of those complicated woofers your not going to get any kind of recone by anyone but the manufacture
  3. pico fuse?
  4. not sure if rockford even sells the kits or they just do them in house. GL reconing that bitch. If it makes u feel any better one of our customers at the shop has 3 re 8s blown by a shop when they cranked the gain crossover and every knob they could find on his amp. 3sixty FTW just mute all the outputs and dont worry.
  5. sweet. i bet that's whats giving me issues right now. Amps been doing very good thou. Doesnt even get close to hot and im hella happy with the remote gain knob. Thanks for everything
  6. quick question for ya jacob. if the amp is at 16v does the remote need to be at 16v too?
  7. 13v is the remote. the remote is connected to the HU which is off the 12v stock electrical. I actually have a voltage guage and it normally reads ~18v. Lowest ive seen is 15.6 or something like that for half a second with the car off and playing it for a while. I wouldnt think that wouldn't explain the cutting out but i'm open to any suggestions
  8. the vegas buildhouse did close. They are now located in cali. If they build woofers there i dont know, prior to the move the MT, and SX were built in the US with the re, sr and se in china
  9. i didn't ground the rcas to the HU but since its a pioneer i fixed the "pico fuse" internally which is normally fixed by grounding the rcas at the HU. i did check the remote wire and it reads fine. Ill add a relay if necessary but voltage on the remote isnt dropping and doesnt read low at all
  10. correct. i thought u were replacing the stock mids?
  11. second skin is the chit
  12. how much do you want for said broken amp?
  13. oh forgot to add... i have everything hooked up to the HU remote as is. The voltage doesn't look funny at all and is reading 13.__v at the sundown. Should i wire up a relay to the remote?
  14. I have a cobalt that comes with the battery in the trunk stock. It was grounded to a piece of sheet metal that was spot welded to the wheel well. I had to remove said piece to fit the 2 extra kinetik hc16v running off the second alt. Any way i have all the batteries grounded with 2/0 to one spot (sheet metal) and the amps hu and processor are also indirectly grounded to the same spot. The only thing audio wise not connected to this one spot is the second alt which is grounded in the engine bay instead. Even as such I've experienced tons of ground loop. So the past few weeks I've spent rewiring my car and doing some tricks to eliminate the ground loop. The hard work paid off because there's no longer noise with the car off (ya i know) and other then the tweeter amp (301x) there's no more alt whine. So right now the only issues I'm having is the slight noise in the 301x (used to be louder then the music so i'm happy) and what sounds like my sub amp (saz-3000d) cutting out. Now i know the sundown isn't cutting out do to low voltage running at 16v and the only thing that half makes sense is possibly the RCA's to that amp but im pretty sure thats not the issue. So my question is do you think if i were to run another ground to the actual frame of the car that would make any difference? And any ideas on what could cause the sundown to act like its cutting out? (Works fine on the bench, has solid 2/0 wire connections, and the protect light doesn't light up at all)
  15. if scott cant get you something u can always check out the hertz hv200
  16. the postal service - such great heights - such great heights
  17. go sealed... without driver specs u can never get the "right" box
  18. lol my 7 and 8 sound pretty darn good... but ya tuning a 3way active setup is a bitch
  19. looking for more midbass? or whats the goal?
  20. not really. Damp pro is basically 1 and a half the regular damplifier. Damplifier alone is comparable to (in thickness) alot of the other butyl products out there and damp pro is just that much better. A good way to look at it is how much coverage your looking for, how much money your going to spend and how much your going to buy. When comparing 80sq ft of both the damp pro isnt that much more price wise.
  21. new ones are sorta crap

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