tejcurrent

I helped my bro set up a BL 12 in his truck on a bxi-2006d a while back, it takes it fine at 1 ohm. I'd choose the two 12s just because there's more cone area than 1 15. If the one 15 is cheaper for you though, and money is tight, I'd get the one sub and upgrade later. Just spend the time and money on a good enclosure and wire. My tahoe held the 2006d at 13.5+v with it's factory 130a alt and a good battery, so if yours is similar you should be fine. If you check the electrical section of this site there are numerous posts about the big 3 and how to do it. If you stick with 2 SSD 12s and give them a good box with more than double the power you should have a nice increase in output. Hope it works out for you.

Finished the front doors, review after the pictures. Panel removed, the moisture barrier on the front is held in place with tape style glue, not the nasty caulk in back. It's not as effective once it has been removed once or twice imo. Cleaning the door for installation. There's another brand "door kit" right at the speakers, it's two layers- not really bad stuff but no where near as good as the Damplifier. Covering up for the spectrum, damplifier installed. Just two sheets on the outer skin, but two good coats on everything is enough to make up for the lack of mat. Drivers door, I skipped a few steps on this because it was hot as balls and there was enough pics of the back: Made a tent to block the sun- near 100 heat index and 90%+ humidity. Final thoughts: This stuff is awesome. Pros: -Much quieter inside the vehicle- less traffic noise -Better bass response from the 6.5" driver. I was listening to Placebo and actually heard bass from my front doors, which was almost non-existent before. I had my x-over set around 65-70hz just because it sounded like crap before, just to find out it was the vibrations sounding bad, not the driver. Now I have to adjust my amp and see what I can get out of them. Solid thud when closing the door, it sounds 'sturdier' if that makes sense, higher quality. -The damplifier has such good adhesive you can not leave it in the sun because it will separate- sticking to the wax paper. I put mine in the freezer for 10 minutes before installing just to get it off the backing without issue. After you put it in place there's no chance of it coming off though. Cons: There was about an inch of solid stuff in the bottom of my gallon jugs- roughly 1/2 a quart. So one quart of unusable mass between the two jugs. This was not left sitting, this was unable to be stirred as soon as I opened the container, like it was already hardened. I tried everything to get it usable and it was just waste. The gallons weren't left uncovered and were stored in my house at 72degrees. Still worth it. Overall a great product, good service, and I will never use anything but spectrum unless damplifier becomes cheaper. It's soooooo easy to spray in door panels compared to trying to roll mat out to adhere. I can see where it's a little difficult to get even coverage on strange shaped surfaces, but it's easier to install in hard to reach places, and faster (imo) than fighting with mat. I just don't like rolling mat on. Time to take M5's advice and do a 2/3-way setup, just need another amp.

Time to spray- one full container of the gun is 1/4 gallon. Make sure to cover ANY exposed area you don't want treated- windows, seats, ect. I intentionally let some over-spray get on my interior just to see how easy it is to remove. Once dried it scrapes off of painted surfaces and leather- so if you get a bit of mist on things don't panic. I would NOT let any get on a custom or cloth interior though. It does not wipe right off, it does need scraped but it is not permanent if you don't want it to be. Grocery bags work great to cover motors and door handles that don't detach easily. 80 psi on the gun. After 24 hours I reapplied the plastic moisture barrier, using the wooden roller to put pressure on the old adhesive. It still works great, no need to replace it with something hard to remove if you need to replace a something in there. I haven't had time to do the front yet, it took so long to clean everything good I ran out of time before it rained. I will update the front door pics and tire well pics next weekend if it isn't raining. My initial review- easiest mat I've ever had the pleasure of working with (used about 1/2 dozen brands). The spectrum was a bit messier than I anticipated, but it was SO much easier than banging up my knuckles trying to reach corners I couldn't see. I ended up with 1-2mm of Spectrum on all treated surfaces, and I think it does a good job. 3 coats (3mm) would probably be great, but it's so much quieter I don't think there would be much difference from a little more. I am excited to treat the rest of the vehicle, I'm sure it will be so much quieter a ride as it made an ENORMOUS difference on my rear doors. Anyone interested in seeing more pictures can visit the full log: http://forum.ecoustics.com/bbs/messages/4/580630.html Thanks for the great product! Only company I'll use from now on.

A scraper works great- just apply enough pressure to get as much of the stretchy glue off as possible without scratching the paint: Use a rag or two and some acetone to remove the excess glue off the metal. Also clean the entire area to be treated to ensure proper adhesion. I prefer to cut the largest piece possible, start a corner, and roll it so I can install as large a piece of deadener as possible without seams. You can also cut it into easily manageable pieces. Two sheets of deadener just covers the large flat skin layer on each door, I recommend a door kit for every two doors to treat. I used painters tape to cover the areas I don't want spectrum to get on. Normally you would not need to do this, and would want more coverage by the mat, but the spectrum will get those curved areas much easier for me.

After winning the contest hosted on another forum a few weeks ago I received a door kit of Damplifier Pro, as well as a Fury knife and wooden roller (Thanks)! I also ordered a spray gun and 2 gallons of Spectrum because I wanted to put at least 2 coats of deadener on all 4 doors. The kit includes 8 sheets that total 13sqft, I need at least 6 ft of mat to cover each door. I used the mat on the large flat outer skin, and spectrum as an additional layer and the coating for the inside panel. I will most likely be ordering a few more gallons of spectrum for the floorboard- I am really pleased with the outcome. Before starting use the button on the dash to disable the dome/door lights otherwise you might have a hot bulb in your hand. Anyway, on to pics: Door kit Product: Doors before working. There are two bolts holding it in place, one in the inside bottom corner and one under the solid handle- 7mm. There are two wires holding it in place - one for a bulb that just pulls out and the other for the power windows. You may need a small screw driver to pop the clip loose but I was able to get it without one. I recommend saving the moisture barrier that comes from the factory. Rain does get into the door panels. Moisture can soak into the carpet pad-like sound deadener on the plastic panel.

Bumping this up in the hopes of updates. I've been trying to hold off for these

Great work, can't wait to see this up and running.

I would pay the extra money for Mechman or another reputable company over Iraggi. I had several bad experiences with him during the course of one transaction.

Very common for voltage to drop .5v or so after startup. My Tahoe would start at 14.4 but after warming up would stick at 13.8 until cooling off for a few hours. An MLA module helped, I start at 16v and drop to 15.5 or so now, but other than that it is normal operation.

Looks like much more port area. A much more suitable box, but I would do some bracing. 3/4" of faceplate that long with no bracing is going to flex.

I did, but then I downsized. I figure 2 22s till I can get a vehicle that will fit 4 without a wall Just waiting on them to be released and enjoying the cargo room lol.

Wow, this is definitely back from the dead there. I believe on factory alt and 4 optima yellowtops this setup did around 152.8 or so at 42hz. This was with hellacious voltage drop (which the mcd-4kws did not like). I added 2 more 18s and 2 more amps and with things no where near turned up and <11v drops my highest score was around 155.6 @ 32hz. I'm still very happy with the subs, I had to change my setup around a lot and I'm hoping to switch to the 22s when they are released. Just playing the waiting game now. Just a few vids since someone asked. I don't have this setup anymore though, still sticking with Fi though. Most power I ever had running in the 2nd vid, and that's with all four amps

Good luck with the sub. I would research some alternator options, just an opinion from someone whos been there.

I'm still waiting to do my install for these I'd hate to build a 7 or 8 cube box for 1 18 to find out I need 9+ for the 22, especially with the rising cost of materials and the shrinking time I have to actually do projects like that. I'm still excited.

Yep you'll be able to recone them..no problems Excellent! I'll probably mail them in when the time comes as opposed to doing it myself, I've seen too many goopy looking dustcaps

Would I be able to recone my btl 18s (old 3-slug style motor) to the 22" basket, or would I be better off just buying new? Thanks!

Sounds like you already have them, I'd get the wall built In the right enclosure they can definitely get the lows (assuming you mean 30hz range) well.

Those vids don't do it justice- that thing is rediculous!

Just bumping this up so it's easier for me to find. I was considering buying the 22" AA/SMD sub when it came out, but if I can recone my BTL to a 22 instead I'd prefer to keep the Fi Logo Been close to 2 and half years now and I'm still so pleased with these things.

? I sold 2 within about a week of deciding to sell them. A lot of people are broke right now- unemployment is over 10% in my area and people like food more than bass for the most part lol. I would advertise on plenty of forums, or ask your local audio shops if you could leave some f/s info with them. These things can take time.

Very nice work, you did a good job making it look good too. I like stealth.

Well I've decided to do a very low tuned enclosure for an alpine type-x 12 I have for my h/t, but I still plan on ported boxes for my subs. I love SPL too I still have 2 btl 18s and 2 memphis 4ks in back, but those will be for show and the 10% of the time I just want stupid loud The other 90% I'm thinking the nice front stage and a single sealed 10 or 12" Q. No, I don't plan on running 18s and the Q at the same time, just switching between the two. If you can tell I'm trying to have my cake and eat it too lol. I'm not looking to win any sq shows here, but I would like to be able to feel like I'm listening to a performance rather than a reproduction. The dark side is just feeling more right the more I think about it

Yeah its been getting pretty bad. To the point of not really enjoying actually listening to music in my truck. Not really liking the 36hz tune of my new box either.

Then I guess 2-way is where I will start. I'll look into the H701, thanks for the suggestion. I'll make a seperate post in the speaker section when I get the new 4ch in and start the process if I find I'm having some issues. Thanks everyone!

Well, the x-overs are much better on the 9853 from the bit I've seen, as well as much better eq (even if it is more complicated). Should I start another topic or do you think you might be able to help me with my other problems here? As emperor asked- the midbass is lacking pretty bad. I (in the not too distant future) plan on running a RF 360.2 for some extra equalization. I could start with the 6.5s and try 2-way, but I really wouldn't mind a few hours of tuning RIckRolled, I can fit an 8" and the 6.5 in the door with only minor work. I want this to look clean and as factory as possible- without any obvious visible speakers. I don't like obvious kickpods despite the advantages they offer- mainly because passengers often treat them like KICK pods, and trample your equipment. Thanks for the help.