tejcurrent

I did one alternator so I can swap it in my drivers position, take off the black one, and get the remaining three taken care of. I need these alts on here pretty quick, but it'll be a few weeks till they're completed. This is just the standard aluminum pulley, I had someone want black pulleys so I just got a few extra done at the same time. I'll have some new pics in a few days with this installed with black pulley.

DC?

This should have been released weeks ago, but problems in the shop are holding up every new release. The bracket is finished just waiting to machine some out. The kit uses a GM AD244 alternator as the 2nd alt, and keeps the factory the same. 7 groove belt, 1/2" solid steel plate. If you want more info email me at [email protected].

Thanks! I'm going to use the 2 1/2" copper bars for + and ground right next to the amp. I'm thinking 5 runs of power and ground a foot or less from the inputs, then the 2 runs straight into the amp. I don't feel like getting new busbars made that plug into the amp, so this should still help a lot. Anyway, I'm not sure when I'll have time to get the amp in I'm just neck deep in work. Also I'm debating on where to mount the amp until I get the other subs in.

Amp arrived, but I dont know when I'll have time to install:

Too many variables. Voltage drop, box size, vehicle freq, cancellation, and the list goes on. If you have to ask my answer is more sub is less likely to die with less power than less sub and more power.

Because those subs sound really good, but are just in a totally different power range. Comparing them to the TSNS would be apples and oranges imo. You really have to start looking at things like the Fi BTL, DC Lvl 5, AA SMD, RD SHW, IA Warden, and so on to have a fair comparison when looking at power handling and intended use.

If the internals are all upgraded, there's no reason why a factory case can't be used. Normally though a beefed up small case alternator will be more likely to fail due to heat. The best thing to do is use a large case when looking for high output, you get more power normally and a longer life span. I would contact all the companies you're looking into and see if they use a factory case, or a larger case, and what their warranty looks like. High output alternators are more prone to failure because they're pushed harder. Simply put you can only get so much out of things. If you were to drive around at full open throttle your engine may last as long as the next, but it is seeing more strain so more likely to have problems. Best luck!

Often you get what you pay for. I understand what you're saying impious, but using the standard case the only other parts that are upgradeable on the AD would be the voltage regulator (which may just not be mentioned). I know nothing about the company, but I really don't see anything wrong with their statement since they could just mean they use standard AD cases- which pretty much every company does anyway. If it was me I would spend the extra money with Mechman or DC though.

There were some CNC problems that have held everything up a bit. From what I was told (a mech is coming back out this week) a bearing went bad, and a new encoder is needed. Once that's back online I should be able to get back on track within a few weeks, but that was a major set back. Troy

If I had someone willing to let me yes, but at the moment I have to keep all vehicles I work on ready to put back on the road within hours. If I could use your vehicle I could have one made in a few days, but locally there's no one who will let me remove a/c even for a day. The lot I normally pull vehicles from is almost empty right now, but the next time an Astro rolls through I'll put some serious time in it. xmikedxl- I should have a few ready to ship in another week or two.

I strongly doubt it will fit the astro without a ton of moving things. I'll post pics in a new thread next week probably, and if you think you could make it work with relocating things we could work something out. I'll PM you next week once I get a few pics. I'm pretty skeptical about it fitting, but if you're willing to do the leg work on it we can definitely make something happen

I believe the confusion is that M5 is stating equal average power is equal, period (which is true). Nick on the other hand while agreeing on average power, is saying that while voltage and amperage is the same, the actual total power over the duration is greater in a square signal, and that the lack of rest period adds to heat and speaker failure. Correct me if I'm wrong as I just skimmed things since this turned into a really long thread, but Nicks testing seems to be closer to real world application than what you're saying M5. Most people either set their gains by ear, or with a DMM without using an O-scope. Even people using a clamp meter will get the same 100v 10a, and assume they set their gains properly, when in fact the square signal of the same voltage and amperage will be applying the peak output for a longer period of time. Either way they may have 1000 watts, but with one being damaging to the sub. Sort of like starting up a tread mill and having the "warm up" time where you gradually increase from a walk to a run and back for the cool down, or you could just run full speed the whole time. You may have a 'peak' of 5mph, but you're going to be worn out running full speed the whole work out. Also glad the OP got his sub taken care of, Fi's C/S has always been great imo.

It will be just 2 alternators. To fit any more it's really necessary to move some things around under the hood. Since most people want a quick bolt on without replacing or relocating things it's not really top of the list. If there was a big demand for it I would look into it more as I know at least 3 will fit, but to make just 1 or two it would be so expensive I doubt I'd even sell that 1 or 2.

Thanks! My cousin stopped by today and took a quick listen, he said something along the lines of "Holy crap that's retarded for 150 watts." I built a nice 7f net box @ 36Hz for 2 IA LI 15's for the trunk of his Buick, powered by an AP1500. He said after a minute or two that it was louder that his install. We're going to drop his setup in his Durango soon though, so there may be a build posted. With rock I've been loving the sound with this low power. My mids can't keep up enough to make snappy kick-drums in music like Devildrivers Clouds over California sound like I would like, but from lots of listening and testing I believe the sub itself isn't at all to blame. I'm crossed over around 60Hz, and the really deep sound of the sub just overpowers my anemic 80-200Hz that makes some rock to me. I'm sure with a bit better front stage (which is in the works) it will sound better. 99% of songs sound wonderful. I listened to every Chevelle CD made, Underoath, Destroy the Runner, Crystal Method, Atreyu, Devil Wears Prada, and lots of Rap, C&S music, etc and it all sounds great. I can't compare it to the XCON or Havoc, but in it's "Class" and power rating it sounds like I would expect, or a bit better. With my last 2 Warden 21 setup I was pretty happy, but following it up with this sub makes me realize what I've been missing for some time. You can hear the full sound of different low frequency instruments much better. It may just be me but every drum (make/brand or whatever) has it's own sound and tonality. Many subs you just sort of hear- "oh that was a 40hz drum hit", where I hear a lot more than just 1 note, I feel like I'm hearing a much more full sound. I truthfully don't have the words or SQ experience to give the review I would like to or this sub deserves, but I'm definitely sticking with T3 as long as their CS is as good as it was with this purchase.

Should be in production within 3 weeks, ran into some issues with the test vehicle. Then the CNC had a bearing go out, and parts to fix the problem are on their way. I'm not sure why, I'm sure it's my fault so I apologize, but I should have at least a dual ready just a few weeks after the 4.3 GM SUV dual and Dodge 1500 Dual bracket come out. Again CNC issues set me back on all projects, along with this crazy weather. Last week it was hailing and it was hard to get test vehicles, this week it's been so nice several people bailed to go out because it was too nice . Regardless I still plan on having at least 8 new brackets in stock by the end of March. Since you're so close it would be really quick and easy to ship, or no problem to meet up and install for you. I'll just shoot a PM when I get some more info for you.

Sure thing! Whenever you want is good for me, maybe you could throw some suggestions on the front stage out there. I'm thinking 2 sets of t3 6.5 comps up front and 1 more set in the rear doors, but I know I'll be wanting more midbass.

lol. I'm thinking 6 from the front, 10 to the rear batts, 2 for the future 2 4 channel amps, 1 for leds, volt meter, etc. and 8 for the sub amp(s). I figure I can run 8 runs within a few inches of the amp to one of my existing 3/4"x2"x9" copper busbars, then the 2 + runs to the amp so there's as little loss as possible. Also having the ground bar where I can have it grounded to every individual component seems like it would simplify and improve things to me. I'll probably also slap some busbars under the truck to the frame, and on the rear battery bank. I still have around 5 ft of 1x2 aluminum bar I'll probably use for the rear batt bank, but I have some 3/8" plate I'm not sure what I'll do with, or if I'll use it at all. Those plates in my hand are in the bottom right corner, I think the big sheet is 3/8" x 12" x 40" and 30 300a fuses. Thanks ManRossDamn *edit- These were the old bars I was considering using by the amp(s), or something else.

I was laying things out, but I'm going to completely redo this area: I tested one piece and liked it so much I started on the rest. I was initially going with brushed aluminum, but I really liked the polished look. It's extremely labor intensive and time consuming, but looks almost like chrome when finished: I was running 4 black alternators with steel center, I'll be switching to white with black center. Hope to have new pics of them powder coated white soon. Also probably adding more alternators.

Here are also a few pics of the main build going on right now. I have 8 runs (4+ and 4 -) from front to back of 1/0, but with the future upgrades I wanted to add 4 more for a total of 12. Here's another 100-some feet of 1/0. Knu Kolossus and kicker hyperflex mainly. Here are my busbars. I was debating between aluminum and copper, but I like the look of the aluminum more and with the size of them I don't see there being an issue. The main bars are 1x2x30 and accept 27 runs of 1/0, and there are 27 blocks that are being used for fusing. Sketch up, then cut.

I turned the box rear firing and I'm liking it a bit better, though I think there is a tiny bit less output. I'm uploading a few videos right now that are terrible quality, but I only had my cell phone and a few minutes. I sold my 1000.1 and purchased a SD 16k, so while it's in the mail I'm running the sub bridged on 2 channels of my 4 channel amp for a total of 150 watts RMS. It is extremely loud for the power! It's louder than most 1000w single sub setups I've heard, flexes my wipers, my mirrors, my dash,and anything loose in the car. With 150 watts it even does a small hair trick, and you can feel the low notes as you inhale. If I hadn't wired the sub, set the gains, and made sure there wasn't clipping personally I wouldn't believe this sub was on the power it is. As far as how it sounds it blends MUCH better with this low power, I was listening to Chevelle today and the sound was rich and hit with authority. The drums sounded natural, I was going to do more attentive listening but it sounded so good I just enjoyed the music Here is a video from a few days back. It's a small paper trick, but for 150 RMS (before rise) on 1 18 it's very loud. Here is a vid from today, really poor quality cell vid, but at least you get the idea. Don't have a seizure from the changing black to white I don't expect those vids to win any awards, but you can at least see the little bit of flex my 4 channel is powering

I was pretty sure I sent you a PM? If you didn't get it my mistake, I'll send another. You shouldn't have to wait 4 months on the Expedition, maybe a month or two at best. Are you located in SC? I've seen some Nemesis guys at the Sumter shows and I could even bring it to you and install it at a show if you'd like. I'll take this to PM, but I definitely will have a bracket soon. Kryptonitewhite, I thought you were selling your van? I still don't have a donor vehicle to make a bracket for you, but believe me as popular an SPL vehicle as you have it is on the list when I can get one made. Troy

Thanks again! Side firing sounds pretty good. I have to get the current amp and rack out to have enough room to rear fire, but I didn't expect it to sound this good as it is. I'm going to see which way sounds best, but as is really does some damage. Sorry I meant to send you a link to the thread or email a few pics but I've been super super busy. I'm excited to buy a new amp but at the same time sad to get rid of this one as I like it a lot- and the work to remove all that wiring is depressing! Different setups peak differently and all that jazz, and you can't compare the cone area difference between my last setup and this single sub, but this sub sounds moves parts of the car 2 21s did not. It just has so much authority on low notes my steering wheel moves, and my front wiper jump around a lot more. This sub has the tonality I was missing with the Wardens. I gave it a good listening to and I keep getting happier. I don't have enough play time to say it's breaking in, but this sub DOES NOT need 5kw to get loud. If the TSNS was a little more affordable I can definitely see it being an excellent match for a 2000 watt amp. It just keeps getting louder as I throw more power at it, but with not wanting to wire above 4 ohms it's asking like little Oliver, "Please, sir, can I have some more?" I have a long time to give a more in depth review of this sub, but since there isn't much info out on it I will write up some now. This sub looks fantastic, I wasn't sure if I would like the CF cone, but it looks absolutely killer. I want to inverse mount it so the basket and motor don't get missed, but the CF is also too sexy to hide. My hand is sore from holding it up at an angle with 2 fingers while I seated it in the recessed hole in the box, so it has enough weight it isn't a good idea for people concerned with stuff like that. There's the common misconception that if a sub is rated 1000 watts you must give it that, and with it's 5kw rating I'm going to say that isn't true for this sub at all. It looks like it will have no trouble taking gobs of power, but it plays with little power exceptionally well. As far as sound it has a deeper tone to it that I would expect from an SQ driver. For rap and C&S music I would strongly recommend it, but for metal with a lot of kick drums I really feel the need for a better front stage to keep up with the really fast kicks. I keep saying I'll post more later but I'll post more after some more listening.

Thanks everyone! Dictator head on over! I'll be mailing this amp out come Monday though so after that it'll be around a month before I get the new amp installed The 1 sub moves a ton of air, way more so than I expected. It normally takes 150db+ do move my sunroof open, and after a short period of time my sunroof was open. Not saying it's doing over 150, just that it's flexing the bejeezus out of things for what it is! It seems to have a deeper sound than I'm used to if that makes sense. I'll post a review tomorrow after a bit more listening.

I'm going to quadruple this setup in a few months, but I pulled the trigger and bought one so I could do some testing. Not just on the sub, but I have alts that I like to test in-vehicle, and I can move 1 18 that can handle a ton of power around from vehicle to vehicle pretty easy. This temporary setup is 1 18 TSNS in 5ft net @ 35Hz. It's 70sq of port and kerfed. Amp is an American Bass 1000.1 @ 4 ohms with 3 D3100s and 1 240a alternator. Having owned numerous beefy subs I will say the weight and size of the motor on this thing makes it the most impressive looking. 102 lb ship weight The sub has direct 8g leads, using Raptor wire. The Raptor is on the left, some scrap "Amp King" stuff I've had for years and got for free on the right. And the test box: And a short vid. This is with the amp set to keep above 13v with just 1 alternator. I'll post a review a bit later on this evening, but I'm pretty impressed with it. There are a lot of things that I would have done differently if I wanted to spend the money, but this is a cheap test box that will fit my needs and costs very little to build.