tejcurrent

That's too bad it didn't work out as planned- it's always something! Still looking promising, do you have any previous scores to compare for this thread?

Coming from you those should be some good numbers! I'm tuned in

7.5 feet net at 36hz. I like the tuning pretty well, maybe a bit lower if you listen to c&s music a lot.

I had planned on emailing nick as was suggested but just wanted to know where you found this info? that'd it be pretty much the same I mean. Appreciate the info either way I talked to him when I bought my 21" Wardens and he told me the enclosure recommendations were the same. I use 7.5 feet net and 125 square inches of port per sub, and I like the way it sounds. Meters within .6db from 32hz to 45 hz. What amp are you using? honestly looking at a single ap1500d until the new 40.1 comes out then i'll be using one of those. I would have no hesitations using a 10ft box + large port area with that 1500, though you may or may not need to change things when you switch amps to one with around 3k watts more power.

I had planned on emailing nick as was suggested but just wanted to know where you found this info? that'd it be pretty much the same I mean. Appreciate the info either way I talked to him when I bought my 21" Wardens and he told me the enclosure recommendations were the same. I use 7.5 feet net and 125 square inches of port per sub, and I like the way it sounds. Meters within .6db from 32hz to 45 hz. What amp are you using?

Enclosure recommendations are the same as the DP. 7.5-10ft net with 12-16 square inches of port per foot.

With your vehicle it sounds like you just need to work on your enclosure. The audible difference between one ported and two sealed subs on the same power will not be that great, and you'll find that you spent a lot of money "upgrading" just to be let down a week or so later. Sounds like you really need to look into vehicles like hatch backs and SUVs.

Thank you. I figure at least doubling the power to the subs should make a difference- and it'll be running at 15 volts instead of 13

Template for the quad bracket -cad drawn and laser cut. A few adjustments needed made, but the real thing should be on my truck by monday or tuesday. Again, these are just templates, the real one will be much thicker steel: Thoughts?

x2 Or fiberglass + resin.

I built a box for a alpine type-x 12 with stock charging and barely rms in my wife old malibu. Had no trouble doing 140, and 138 on thug motivation 101 - all legal sealed t/l #s, and I'd expect better results from the Q. I wanted to put in a BL and 2kw and bassrace the 39.9 class, but my wife didn't care about it enough and wanted her trunk back. Often what sounds loud and what meters loud aren't exactly the same though. I would just build a good daily box and hope for the best. If you don't get the numbers you wanted you can always rebuild a new box or work on the one you have.

Please respond when you get a chance, it will help a lot. Some h/o alts are more likely to fail. I've installed brand new alternators (one being Powermaster) and had an issue even brand new. My brother had 2 die on his truck before he got one that worked for him. I wouldn't rule it out until you get the dmm and check things. You're talking about $20 or so for a dmm, which is cheaper than upgrading the wire alone.

x2 plus ballgasms.... who doesn't like the feeling of their testicles dancing around at 140+ db @ 30hz? 150db+ FTW!! x2 150+ @ 30hz is fun for sure Nothing like that feeling of the air vibrating in your chest as you breath. It's fun, and nice to design and create a system yourself. That's why people stay on the forums. Few people build a system then use it till they sell the car or 10 years later, within months they have planned or started the next upgrade.

Very impressive, that's an interesting sub/port setup too.

Where are you located? If your in SC you're within a few hours. I dropped off my bracket for auto cad and laser cutting. They're going to get back with me on pricing but within the month I should have my quads on. I got a sweet price on 1.5" threaded rod for bracing, so the new boxes should be braced nicely Hopefully I'll have this done whenever you decide to come through this way. I can get better pricing for buying more of these quad brackets at once. If I did a pre-sale/group buy on here would anyone be interested in a high quality, low cost quad bracket? We're talking half the price of other companies, and I'm all about saving myself some money. Not trying to compete with any brands, just get a few people in on like a group buy of these to get a low cost. They could be modified to fit 2 or 3 alternators I believe.

Take a DMM, or go to a shop like Best Buy that has installers with DMMs. It's only 20 bucks for a cheap one so I'd buy one- they're good to have around. Check your voltage at the amp when its playing, preferably around the volume where it shuts off. If it's below 12.5 or so you really need to upgrade your charging. If not I'd look into other amps. My experience is that by the time those amps put out decent power they're starting to clip, though others swear by them. Also you say you have a h/o alt, what brand? How old? If you can post up what your actual voltage is at the amp on heavy bass notes there are more suggestions we may be able to offer. Good luck.

Lol, that's all you. I think you already told them that- and from what I saw your AAs absolutely would. For the new build I'm thinking two separate boxes again, either 7.5 or 8 ft net with 115 sq of port per box. That would let me quickly go from 1 to 2 subs, with boxes I could handle alone. Still crunching numbers on them.

Pretty much. One of the guys at the shop was pretty cool and actually has used some good equipment. Everyone else made it pretty obvious they don't really know what they're talking about. I'm not the kind of person to go to shops and act like a smart ass, but I hate the kind of installers that treat every customer like a retard. I bought my h/u from this shop, and the installer told me converting my vehicle to double din was impossible. He told me American Bass amps were crap (I tried to tell him it was AB not American Pro) and that was pretty much all he had to say. There's nothing wrong with not having a large system or great equipment, but when you're around car audio all day and still have no clue. Man I can't wait to turn things up! Oh I forgot to post- I got a new table saw to replace the one that was stolen! Hopefully I'll be doing box work in a week or so

I played Jeezy- White girl for a minute today for some guys at a local shop. No one really commented, except for one guy who said he had seen wardens in a club before. I said it may have been large speakers but doubtfully wardens, and he assured me they were wardens in folded horns After he stuck his head in my door and had the air blow his hair and shirt around he told me my system sounded like what 2 good 15s on 1000 watts sounded like 15 years ago lol. I needed RCAs, but there's a good reason why I never go to shops anymore if I can help it.

6th order with 30 18s and 100,000 watts? Good luck I do hate to see threads started with nothing more than a goal. It's like if I posted "I'm going to be banging 30 super models on my private island- keep an eye out!" I'm not saying it couldn't be done, but if my neighbor said it I'd just sort of be like

You are correct. I've had people cut some cuts on a panel saw and cut them crooked as hell. I mean almost 1/2 inch shorter on one end than another. I'll never do that again.

The sealed Q will probably be easiest to make sound good, while it can take several tries to get the sound you want from a ported enclosure. Audible output shouldn't be too different from one to another, though that's really install dependent. From your music style though the sealed Q will be a good choice. Also with a ported BL it can sound good, but you'll need more power to make it worth choosing over the Q. Have you considered two sealed 10" SSDs? And what amp will you be using?

There is no spec sheet.

Bracket is finished! There will be slight changes to the spacers on the alts so they are more even, but I'm going to the machine shop tomorrow. Pulleys located: The line represents a 90 degree bend in the metal: Belt wrap?

I found a few pics I took while test fitting. You can see where pulleys need to be. I was at least a good 6 inches short, and this belt is 9 inches difference. Also looking at the pics, it's funny how when you wire for 4 alts and don't have them in how bad wiring looks. I have my extra + runs on the alternator post, and grounds on the battery terminal. There will be one run of + and ground per alternator. They will also all be looped together. There is a fold in the bracket that I couldn't make with 1/4" mdf, but in metal it will add strength and allow me to run any wiring I need under the alts and bracket instead of over.