filtor1

I wouldn't put that much power on a Q daily.

Amazing work! I love to see those creative details thrown in to give an enclosure that personal touch.

Yo Adrian, good to see you lurking around here. I wish you were in town. I don't htink I can rip down this 4'X8' piece of 3/4" MDF by myself. I am going to give it a shot though.

Plans run $25, and you can simply shoot an email to Dylan @ Fishercustoms . com to get a design made up. Thank you good sir. Email sent. Replied I can't thank you guys enough for the speedy response and the sick box you popped out for me. I only hope I can build it and do justice to the design. I am going to try and work on it tomorrow. Is it ok to post build pics here or would you rather I didn't?

I contacted Fisher Customs to design one for me. I will let you know how it turns out.

Plans run $25, and you can simply shoot an email to Dylan @ Fishercustoms . com to get a design made up. Thank you good sir. Email sent.

Where should I post a request for a design? I am basically looking to do Model: 4.0@35Hz_12 pair but with 3 changes. 1. Bump the width to 40" 2. Tune to 32Hz 3. Counter sink the subs into the baffle The subs are the AA Havoc 12". I can provide the tech data if needed. What price range am I looking at for plans? Thanks for you time and effort. Chris

Here is a few more places I tried to calculate the length. 28.76" http://www.carstereo.com/help/Articles.cfm?id=31 RE gave me 13.25". http://www.reaudio.com/speaker_box/LPort_Box_Calc.html

Also, when doing a center port, do I split the difference between the two rear panels? Or do I make them both equal to the total length independently. My center part of the port is 14.75" after taking into consideration the back wall .75 and the width of 4". The total length, if it is indeed 31", would I take 31"-14.75"-.75" for the width of the walls so = 17". Do I need to add a 14.5' X 17" piece to each side to achieve the required port length? I am still using a 32Hz tune. I hope someone understand what I mean. I don't really know how to explain it better.

I had a free day today and decided to start laying out my panels. I have also decided to go ahead with the slot port. I want to avoid any chuffing, especially because the subs and port are firing directly into the cabin this time. I have use a couple of different online port length calculators and some of them are giving me conflicting information. The box is 40" X 16" X 18". I want to try and build the port in the center for weight balance issues and to add strength to the box. The port is going to be 4" wide and 14.5" tall (internal dimensions. The net volume I get is 4.12cf, and 5.33 gross. One calculator I used gave me a port length of 30.76". http://www.the12volt.com/caraudio/boxcalcs.asp#rec Another gave me a port length of 28.67". http://www.mobileinformationlabs.com/HowTo...20lenth%201.htm This is with the slotted port option selected. Without it I get the 30.76" as in the previous calculator. Which one of these sources should I go with? I would love to get this done today if at all possible. I wonder if I am being to picky over two inches of port length. Chris

I have only missed one year since 93' so I will def be there. Only spectating though. Although I love the sport, I suck at installing.

^^^ great news to hear. I really wanted to pick up a pair for my office but I already have too many outstanding projects. Maybe there will be a couple left when I get finished with the current projects.

Great deal on a great amp! I already took advantage of it. Free bump.

I think it looks just fine. Old school JL FTW too!

I think it is a great service to offer as well as opening up some possible new markets. I say do it as long as you can project a gain in net income. But you know I have already made good use of it so, take it for what it is worth.

Any time!

I have also read those same threads. That is actually why I chose to try the Precision Ports. I have known others to have great reviews, so who knows. I shall test.

I see. I will give them a try, since I have 2 sheets of 3/4" mdf and see which I like better. I will build one box with the slot port and another with the aero's. The good thing about this install this time around is I have decided to try some new things. So if the first one doesn't work, then I will throw the slot ported one in. I can always scrap the other. I appreciate your input.

WOW! Great job!

looks close enough.... IMO you really DON'T have enough port area.. you really need about 2 of th areos per sub. however the length you would need wouldn't work out.. Edit:left out a word Don't makes a big difference in that statement How do I know what would be enough port area? Is there a spec that can be used to calculate or know how much is required? The last box I had utilized a 4"Wx14"Hx17"L slot port in a smaller enclosure but I didn't design or build it. How much port area would you suggest? Would it be better to sell the 4" aero's and revert back to a slot port? I could do 4-4" aeros and port through the rear deck, but I am trying to keep it as simple as I can for now.

There will be plenty of pics. I promise.

And the old... http://www.soundsolutionsaudio.com/forum/i...?showtopic=7136

The new... http://www.soundsolutionsaudio.com/forum/i...showtopic=24304

Putting it on a pair of AA Havoc 12"s in a 5.33cf gross enclosure with dual 4" Precision Port aero ports and tuned to 32 Hz. This is replacing my 2-12" Fi Q's in a similar enclosure with a SAZ1500D. I may add a second run of 0gauge to the back battery. Big-3 is done in 0gauge too. D34/78 under the hood already and a D31A (was in when I was using the SAZ1500D) will be in the trunk. If money permits, I may add a second D31A, but I don't know if it will be necessary. The only thing I will be doing in the near future is upgrading the alternator. I want to test out this electrical and see if it is sufficient first. The rest of the system consists of a Pioneer 880 and a Kicker ZX850.4 actively running a set of Rainbow Powerline CS's for my front stage. No rears. As you can see from my choices in amps, I like to have a lot of headroom. There is somewhere in the range of 260-300sq ft of deadener too. A combination of Stinger Extreme RoadKill and Rammat BXT90. This time the subs and port will be forward facing and sealed from the trunk. The TDX's before, and the Q's ripped it up so I want to try and eliminate that and all the associated rattles. I am also hoping to gain some output as well by taking the trunk out of the equation. We shall see if the power and new box and position of the box does the trick.

One more thing, thanks to Scott for designing such great stuff. Even though my wallet shivers, it is one of the few things I have that makes me happy. Thanks Scott for everything you have done for me and this hobby/sport. I appreciate it!