lee

I'm not surprised he said that. Another car audio sales rep with the ''deer in the headlights'' expression lol

Anthony, could you give us more detail on how you want to go about this? I heard something about a convertible ect. but we need more details like, how much power you will run,what amps, etc. I have a ''Q'' series and my poor car is taking a beating. I even think an SSd or two would be up your alley. Seriously though, you cant rely soley on the numbers given by the manufacture to make an ethical decision on what sub to purchase. For instance, the SSD has a power rating of 800watts, doesnt seem too impressive right? Well, it will do just fine being mellow on some smooth jazz or any soft passage style music. Then you decide you want to shake up the block a little, so you crank it up and a new beast unveils itself, destroying everything you throw at it. Trust me man, dont dwell on the numbers. They all handle well over rated if done with respect. Just some food for thought

Because, just incase his install doesnt have the backbone behind it the btl will not be in his best interest. You need a strong electrical system, lots of power, and a well designed and strong enclosure , among other things to do a btl any justice. Anything less and the btl would not be as impressive as would something from a lower series of speaker. That's alot more money involved to support a btl sub properly, don't you agree?

yes

That's what you need to do first Autozone doesnt know how to check alternators properly I called him today and only kept getting his answer machine. He wont be back until monday

No harm, no foul. Thats why I posted because it seems he went around it by replacing things.

no pun intended

I know those kicker zx1000s bench around 1100-1200 watts, you're good there. However, you are on the higher side for volume. Together, big box plus big power = bottoming out on some low notes. I suggest you raise the subsonic filter frequency until the sub doesnt bottom out at those frequencies. Only other thing I think it could be, is two or more panels smacking together causing a claking sound due to the thin wall material or joint construction they use in pre-fab boxes, (usually 5/8). This has happened to me in the past, but would be the last thing to check due to the top issue more than likely being the problem you're having trouble with.

listen to what Nick said, he knows what he is talking about.

I was thinking the same thing brother

That's a stout score

Well the battery is DC ( one way ) and it fell on speaker outputs, AC (speaker moves in & out). does the sub still play normally till you shut it off? then it pops?

he already stated no. What head unit do you have? Can you explain exactly where your grounds are and how you changed them to try and fix it? I read this thread over again and did not see where he said that. I found ''power & speaker'' and that is not the same thing

Should be a hot seller

sounds to me like the soft turn on circuit or ( anti-thump ) circuit got damaged.

Any sneek peek pics of this possible? I'm interested

(1)What amps are going to be in use? (2)I think you're about 100 square inches shy of what you'll need for two 18s at 12 cubes your #s = 16.2 cubes before displacement, minus .7 for your port, minus .26 for each btl 18 so .52 total for subs. So 14.98 after the two not including double baffle or bracing etc.

If he typed it correctly, he has the new punch 1000 (P1000.1bd) not the power 1000 (T10001bd) I dont see much over 12?? watts with the punch model. it doesnt have the beefier power supply and such as the power series models.

a little steeper than some, but you get what you pay for

I'm impressed you're starting off your first with good equipment, unlike the majority

Indeed!

I honestly dont believe the PB3000 could keep up with the sundown. however, these are my opinions, not facts-----yet

Are you running your rcas and power wire next to each other?

What did you use to get the battery to look new again?