the727kid

Sweet =D PM me a price, and maybe the other option if you want to keep it secret

Extended lenght coil... do you mean like a longer former? And the sub came as a D2 I mean a D1 would be optimal for me but would it work with the motor?

Yea thats what I figured what happened. I actually put my hand on the sub right after I turned it off and it was only luke warm. That song is just nasty though... basically a solid 26hz note. And a 15" D2 recone.... I'd like to give it the power if it I can get something that will handle it fine.. what are my options?

So I got bored today and decided to test the Nightshades limits.. it was taking every note solid @ 1500watts without even breaking a sweat... So I droped it down to .5, lowered the gains a lil bit... testing it at typical music levels seemed to do pretty good.. a lil stress but nothing serious... put on Burning Up Chopped in Screwed... pretty much flexed the piss out of the car for 15 seconds and it started smelling bad... turned it down real quick. Put it back to 2ohms... played fine for a little and then gave out. Sooo Jacob any type of specialized recone I can get =D? I ripped her apart to find this...

Haha I'm pretty happy with it in the big ass box it's in right now =D I'm excited for this box.

I'll have build pics of a 6th order this weekend hopefully =)

Hmm what is price on them? I would probally seriously consider as long as they could play good musical.... how would it sound compared to the nightshade

New box for the Nightshade... a 6th order =D... thx to 80inches for the design!! Thinking about doing a light coat of black and then putting grill cloth over so it just looks like a wall.

Let me know when your at the shop by my house, I want to come check out the van!

That motor is huge lol, how long is the damn coil?

How well could these perform off 100watts each compared to say the Tang Bands 6.5 subs?... only looking to play up to the 220 regions. They would probally be in small kicks.

I will be running my Sundown with the 3kw @ .5 daily =D, gains will be conservitive tho.

If someone needs a D1, we could do like a 3way deal cuz I would prefer a D2

First off, on music, that tweet will very very seldom see a true 100wrms for more than a split second. Now if you want to bring up the facts, yes a test tone at 100wrms could potentially damage the driver. Who the reck listens to test tones? I typically run 2-3 times as much power on my drivers than they are rated for. I have yet to this day lost one because of power. Let me rephrase 2-3 times on my mids and tweets, I personally think 6000wrms (I have 1000wrms subs)on subs is rediculous for anything more than competition. If you don't clip your amps, set your gains correctly, and KNOW WHAT YOUR LISTENING TO, you should have now issues running "100wrms" on a set of tweets. What? That is completely off subject lol. I want evidence proving that a speaker on a passive xover sees nearly the same amount as a speaker ran active.

The crossover causes very little power loss unless there is an attenuation circuit on the tweet. Evidence? First hand experience has shown me otherwise.

Since you have the ability, I would definitely run actively. That way your mids and highs can sound exactly how you want them to. I agree, I just have to find strong enough tweeters to take ~100 watts, thats why im passive right now unti I find some. Your tweeter isn't going to see any more power by having its own channel. Crossovers split the frequency; not the power. If i have one side running off 100 watts passive (Ch 1), the tweeter itself is not getting a full 100 watts. It would be if it had its own channel No, you don't understand. The tweeter will NOT see any more power by having its own channel. The power is NOT split by the crossover. Running a speaker passive off 100watts and active off 100watts (its own channel), is a big difference. The passive xover will asborb a lot of that power and the tweeter won't see nearly 100watts, but running it active it will see all 100watts. Unless of course he is talking about bi-amping it.

Many folks will be surprised how well these do on the low-end Does it better than my 2 15" BLs, but they were starved for airpspace. No numbers yet, everything is out of the car right now, I am re-wiring the car, sound deadning the floor (trunk and doors done), wrapping my door pods, cutting out my rear deck more, and making a new rear deck cover. I could toss it in real quick tho if someone local has a meter.

Box is 4.5cubes @ 31hz with 79.75^2" of port. Lol yea it barley clears, infact there is a trim piece there I had to take out to make it fit.

Sundown 3000 for now @ 2ohms, once I get an alt, it will be ran at .5. Just tested it a little with the car off @ 2ohms... first off the sub is very accurate, better so than my BLs were. And @ 31hz it was getting nasty on the lows and still getting darn loud on the highs.

And pure sex is the only thing that descibes this lol. Hmmm... Nothing special lol But check out this bad boy Next to its lil lil brother, the SD-1v1, and its competition, the BTL. Chrome basket, black motor :drool: Woven Tinels And Jacob, you must be one picky person lol, I don't see any defects to my eye. This thing probally is going to get mounted inverted, it's too sexy to keep it hidden.

As for fans... should you have a fan on one side blow, and another fan on the other side pull the air? Or say both blowing towards the amp?

Have any cosmetically damaged nightshade 15s? Price?

Glad your ok, and sorry to hear about the car. I had my first car totaled and still wish they didn't =(. They will total it if the cost of repairs is 75% of what the car is worth I believe. So I think you should be good. But that box wasn't really secure, at least it doesn't look like it. That little L bracket won't do much when force is applied especially with that big box. Try bolting it down to the trunk next time.

Told him to do a polarity test with a 9v and he said both pop outward.

Know this is probally a hard question.. but what would be a good starting weight for someone not too strong?