NB50

Sneakin

I want cookies. None in the house and a little late to go get some from the store, besides the fact that the roads are probably terrible and I'd end up at the bar instead of actually getting the cookies. I'll just have to live without cookies.

BovQyphS8kA

MMMMMMM cookies

ugh, you make it sound like you got poon from your mom.

http://www.kicker.com/sites/default/files/SoloBaricL72004.pdf

Hmm, I wonder if I should pick up a sub. I believe I seen an eclipse 9152 non pro sub for sale, wanted what seemed to be a pretty cheap price too. Drawbacks are I already have a sub I haven't used yet, don't know if I can spare the cash right now. Maybe I'll see if I can wheel and deal tomorrow.

As before check grounds. Also how old is the serpentine belt, might want to check that also.

I wouldn't have a problem paying that for one. They will do power if you provide them power. One caveat though there is two versions of the amp that can be confused with one another, one is the 1002 and the other 1000-2. There is nothing wrong with either of them but IIRC the 1002 is pre buyout and the 1000-2 is post buyout.

I was asking tuning frequency if it was ported. I would assume M5 is saying that because you are trying to cram a 12" sub into to small of a space. You can do it but it may not sound correct. The way I see it you may have a couple options, get 12's and try them maybe even adding poly fill or building some mounting rings and getting 10's. If it were me I think I would go with the mounting ring for 10" sub route.

Bartender - (hed) P.E.

What are the specs of the box? Sealed, ported, internal volume, tuning frequency. Your goals?

I Need Love - LL Cool J

Port length = .75" for the front baffle + 14.5" length to the bend + 6" of port in the bend + .75" board that makes port wall + 7" port length after bend = 29" physical port length + 3" half port width for end correction = 32" of effective port length. Then way I calculate volume is after the port is already in the box. You cut up the spaces in to squares and add them together. Like this, don't pay attention to the numbers in the picture it is just an example. Where your green area is 33.75" internal width * 13.75" internal depth * 20.5" internal height = 9513.28 in^3 + (the orange area 26.75"internal width * 6.75" internal depth * 20.5" internal height = 3701.53 in^3) = 13214.81 / 1728 = 7.65 ft^3 - .26 sub displacement = 7.39 ft^3 End result looking like this.

Well this throws a monkey wrench into future purchasing plans.

Hate to say it but your still off. You forgot 1.5" in your port length somewhere, if I had to guess it would be .75" for the front baffle and .75" for the port board after the turn(assuming your using .75" wood). Also your volume is not right, your only figuring the internal port volume, in other words you forgot to include the volume of the boards that make up the port. Just a side note also, it bothers me when people figure out the port volume separate from the enclosure and subtract it, that works fine for ports that are straight but as soon as the port turns it will mess up the volume of the enclosure and in the end tuning.

First you ask about the woofers pole vent now your talking about the port, which is it.

The Icon is actually more like 6.75". No clue on the Sundown.

At least the width of the pole vent.

Which SSA 12"?

Lol that leads me to believe that this amp is not a piece of junk haha No I just collect junk. Really though, your budget is pretty tight for the power output you want.

That amp is a piece of junk, you should give it to me.

Internal volume is below the minimum recommended and its not tuned to the 32hz you want. I got it at 4.59ft^3 @ 33.66hz