NB50

Please pick up a piece of paper or a pencil or even set up something in excel. I don't find that calculator accurate at all. for the dimensions given I got 2.06ft^3 @ 39hz thats without speaker displacement.

No they don't use the coil size. http://www.soundsolutionsaudio.com/forum/i...c=10067&hl=

http://www.soundsolutionsaudio.com/forum/i...?showtopic=8161

It Looks alright but not my style. But heres the real question why is there an RE sticker on the back and why is there RE subs in a DC Audio van???

Ding Ding Ding, I Think we have a winner. VERY STRONG possibility for my new driver.

These are the only ones I know of that are readily available. http://www.zaphaudio.com/6.5test/compare.html

Thanks for the compliments. As for finishing them heres what I have planned. I plan on making an enclosure in the shape of a trapezoid on the top of it(end opposite of the vent opening) to enclose the tweeter and crossover. Tweeter I was looking at is this. http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl.cf...tnumber=264-822 For a crossover I was looking at the premade ones from PE or picking up board from Radio Shack and making my own. Im open to crossover point suggestions. I was thinking about 2khz http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl.cf...tnumber=260-140 For finishing on the enclosure I was thinking of this. http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl.cf...tnumber=261-610

Ive seen them in concert opening up for System of a Down. Mars Volta really wasn't my cup of tea though.

I am not a fan of REs box calculator. Here is why. 1. How can they allow you to put in a longer port wall 2 then possible. box width is 31in internal of 29.5in subtract 6.75in from that (6in for the ports on each side and .75in for the port wall on the left side. So 29.5 - 6.75 = 22.75in so having a 23in port wall will mess up tunning. 2. I do not find the box volume to be correct. Internal dimensions are 29.5 * 14.5 * 14.5 = 3.59ft^3 good so far then to subtract the port volume 3.75 * 14.5 * 40.5 = 1.27ft^3 Its 3.75in because 3in for the port and .75 for the wood. So you have 3.59ft^3 gross - 1.27ft^3 port = 2.31ft^3 already smaller then their total box volume and you still have to subtract woofer displacement. All this leads to mis tunning. 3. If the back wall is the full length that in can be in this case 22.75 you still need to add port length when figuring out tuning frequency because it ends in a corner and the corner adds length, in this case 3in all this effects tunning frequency also. So to answer you question will it work? Yes but not at the numbers that gives. By the way for those specs in there I got 2.16ft^3 @ 33.6hz with 20 in^2 of port per ft^3. That is with sub woofer displacement. Which should work fine.

Heres how I went about it. I started by reading this simple tutorial. http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/ind...?showtopic=1828 Then I read all of MJKs pdfs on his site. http://www.quarter-wave.com/ Then I read info on this site. http://www.t-linespeakers.org/ More particular that really clears up MJKs findings and adds some others. http://www.t-linespeakers.org/design/MJK-f...mies/index.html After all that I felt somewhat confident enough to try a design.

Cant complain about keeping the same looks and adding cooling ability. Looks Great.

I have been debating on what to do with the Mach 5 MLi's that I bought. After debating on the decision I decided to try to design a Transmission Line from them . Heres what I came up with. Its a Transmission Line enclosure tunned to about 52Hz. Now I dont know everything about designing enclosures but I read all that I could and tried some things that I thought were a starting point. The box is not nearly finished yet. I still have to add a tweeter, crossover, experiment with stuffing, and put a finish on it. But it is done enough to give it a listen. Listening to I am fairly pleased with the way it sounds. It almost plays low enough to not need a dedicated sub woofer. It is still a work in progress and I need to build another one to make a pair once every thing is figured out.

I am really wanting to see what this driver is capable of. It is added to the possible new driver list for me pending price point and time line.

You gotta tease us like that

wow I havent seen those in a while... What were they asking for them? Im not sure I was just browsing through the store when I saw them and remembered how I always wanted some. I think they were used though cause they were in some fiber glass enclosure. The store they were at has alot older stuff laying around, I bought a US acoustics 2300f from them over the summer I also seen some Orion HCCA G5s, 2500D, older Hifonics amps, older Rockford amps.

Welcome I'm jealous of all the old school soundstream you have, I almost picked up some SPL mules at a shop the other day.

Apple has a lossless codec that is supported by the ipod. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Apple_Lossless

Yes, you only wired 2 of the 4 coils up. you need to wire the positive on one coil the the negative on the other coil not the same coil. Notice on the diagram that the wire goes across the woofer to the positive not to the one right next to it.

Why do you care how its going to sound if its "Strictly only a SPL car".

If I understand you correctly your using one coil from each woofer on each channel. If so that would only be 2 ohms per channel. You cant cheat ohms law thats why its ohms law and not ohms theory.

ok thanks, but does that mean that i have to provide 200 watts of power to the component set? I still don't understand how both speakers can see the same amount of power, isn't there a split? i am sure you are right, but can you elaborate? thanks so much!! No you dont have to put 200watts. For an easy way think of it like this 20khz - 2khz (just example numbers) your tweeter receives 100 watts of the power and for 2khz to 60hz (just example numbers) the mid receives 100 watts. Its not splitting the power but splitting the frequency range. hope I explained it right and clear

I only messed around with raid a little bit so I can only help a little bit hopefully. What are you looking for out of the Disk configuration? Are you looking for data security, performance, or just one big disk to store music. For data security Id use RAID 3, or 4 but you lose one disk drive for parity bits. For performance Use Raid 0 this is the one I used but beware if one drive fails you lose everything like I did. Just on big disk to store the music look into JBOD (Just a Bunch Of Disks) once you fill up one drive then it starts to write to the next but still appears as one drive. link to help http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Standard_RAID_levels Memory as much as you can afford but I wouldnt recommend going over 3GB ive heard windows XP 32bit wont recognize over 3GB Monitors I like the samsung that I have does fine for what i use it for movie and games look good on it. The one I have is a Syncmaster 205BW

If the sub you want to use displaces less space than the Icon, your box tuning will be higher. On the other hand if the sub you want to use displaces more space than the Icon, you will lower your tuning. this is an old topic and thats wrong less displacement = lower tunning , more displacement = higher tuning when keeping the same port length and area. But Just changing sub displacement(couple hundredths of a cubic foot) would not change the tunning enough to notice.

Ordered my six Two for sure are gonna be for the car. Maybe all six if I feel ambitious or the other four will be for some home stereo speakers.

To be ultra mega safe yes 300 amps This is up to you circuit breakers can fail, meaning after they trip alot the contacts on them wear out and they can weld themselves together preventing them from tripping again. And fuses can get expensive after blowing a couple times.