NB50

Yea that isnt that much space to work with if you can squeeze alittle more room Id look at some TC-9s. http://www.tcsounds.com/tc9.htm Now I Have 2 12 Cerwin Vega VMAX in a 2cuft box tuned to 34hz (they recommend 1cuft per 12 and a tuning of 37hz). http://www.cerwinvega.com/vmax.php they look like nice subs built fairly well for a mass produced product dual spiders woven tinsel leads and they can be found cheap. The thing is I have never liked the way that they sounded but I dont have enough power going to them. Anyways Id look into getting a little more space and the TC-9s.

Out of those two I would pick the Bxi2006 and set the gain to about 1500 because i believe they are a little overrated. But I would really consider picking up one of these SAZ1500Ds from Sundownz http://www.soundsolutionsaudio.com/forum/i...?showtopic=9473 for a little bit more money you get a helluva lot better amp and full warranty(comparing against Hifonics Ebay pricing and lack of warranty).

Im taking a guess and i think your talking about these. http://www.twacomm.com/catalog/model_83-95...BC3468B1FCAB164 I haven't really seen them in 8 gauge but i think your best bet would to buy 10s and pull the plastic off then open up the end with some pliers lay the wire in and crimp it back down and if you want throw some solder on it. you can find some locally at a hardware store or lowes/home depot.

You should be happy with the 880. I have heard of the problems but i have had mine for about 9 months and haven't had any problems with it. There is a grip i have with it but nothing big like when I put in a disk loaded with mp3s and put it on random when you press the next button it goes the the next track instead of going to a random track. like I said not a big problem but would've been nice to skip to a random track.

I'm sure you could tell them till your blue in the face but they aren't going to change their mind. What most people don't realize is that some amps can look similar but be completely different just from the quality of components that are used in the amp. Now I haven't got to use sundown amps yet (I'm planning on some) but just from seeing reviews, the customer service, and the warranty let alone trying to give a .5 ohm warranty only having to take it away because of users not being able to use it right. Sounds to me like a great company that has a great product and is willing to back it up.

I just got back from vacation to find the package on the kitchen table opened it up only to be confused and a little disappointed. Its not that the light gray ones look bad but I was really expecting the dark gray ones. But as always like an excellent business man Scott is on top of the problem.

I figured it would work. ngsm13 How do you like the P8DVD. I was thinking of getting that unit but figured if i was going to do it i would go with navigation too plus i started looking around for the unit and it looks like its hard to find. I guess i forgot a question and that is how would the stock wiring harness hold up against two head units. 1. Should I run a power and ground and do some kind of distribution center under the passenger side dash. Im looking at the installation manual right now and it looks like all i need to worry about is Power, Ground, and Accessory turn on wires to get power to the unit. 2. Am I missing any other wires that I need to worry about that are under the dash that the other head unit already uses. Might have to find out if SSA is going to carry the N3 . Thanks again for the Help.

Looks like a really nice project car. build yourself a copo kinda car keep the dog dish wheels and six cylinder body look and stuff a LS7 with a six speed.

Well I really like my current head unit which is a Pioneer 880PRS but I kinda would like to add navigation and DVD capabilities. So I started to think on how I could do it suggestions would be appreciated. I would like to keep the 880 as the primary unit and the nav as the secondary. My current idea is to add a Avic n3 and hook up the audio through an auxiliary adapter something like this http://www.pioneerelectronics.com/pna/v3/p...0_35681,00.html Help is appreciated.

Looks really nice . I like the pieces that match the amp mounting plate too if it was just all blue then i wouldn't be too sure then but it looks great.

I will second the 2 12" SSD option I think you will be very pleased with them. I had 2 12" MTX 5000s in a sealed box in the back of a 1990 firebird and was very pleased with the output from them so the SSDs should be ALOT better then those were.

Im On there (Nathan Bishop) If its not to late can I get 1 of them with no Built To Last if not thats fine.

Yes leave all stock wiring alone and just add to it current will choose the path of least resistance.

I havent got mine yet but I came in just in time before you left for a business trip. I sent you a pm on may 2 with all my info for the stickers and shirt. Also could you let me know if you recieved my payment for the team shirts sent on May 4 for 2 XLs and that I am all set. It was the first time i used paypal and am a little uneasy about it. I understand you were away on business.

So you just have 0/1 gauge to the box and then the stock wire from the box to the battery. If so I would put 0/1 from the box to the battery. Also as long as you have 0/1 gauge from the front battery to the back battery should be fine dependent on current draw.

<--- My 2200f As for the USX series it might be hard but maybe you could find out the serial numbers on the zed made ones and look for that. Or just buy one and maybe get lucky on getting a zed, I have a shop by me that still has a 2300f that was there when I bought my 2200f there 8 years ago, so you could still get a zed. Anyhow I wouldn't have any problem running the USX series zed or not I think they will be just as good as newer stuff if not better.

2 12" MTX Thunder 5000 US Acoustics USA 2200f Pioneer dehp2000 in a 90 firebird

I used to have 1990 Firebird formula so i am a little familiar with the "trunk area". It could be possible but your gonna have to get pretty creative. Maybe fiberglass the "cargo hold" to get the most air space from it. Heres something I just threw together I don't recall the dimensions of the area so you might have to reposition some things or add more ports. Also I'm not to sure about using the "cargo hold" as it might be a dead spot for the air flow.

Looks like there is a lot more room with out the subs inverted. wish my dad was into audio but then with always be fighting whos is louder, like in golf when we see who can hit the ball farther then each other.

They all look like more then capable amps. I would choose the amp with the best features on it like subsonic filters, crossover, connections, and others.

I believe RCAs are positive inside negative outside. I would double check all connections from loose fuses to loose grounds and all the amp settings gains and crossovers. and some absent minded mistakes that I make often like make sure you have the RCAs plugged into the inputs and not the bridge output/inputs. If you have an extra amp and the time I would throw the other amp in just to make sure if you didn't come up with the solution.

Saying "I wanna be heard a block away" is like signing a death wish when you post it on a forum. It just makes the person that said it sound like an ignorant S.O.B. Being heard outside the car is annoying Im not gonna lie I turn the music up loud when moving turn it down at stop lights and neighbor hoods. I try to keep it under control because it does become a nuisance. I have neighbors that even while im typing this at 1am coming home or leaving with their stereo up loud enough for me to hear it in the back of the house. All Everybody is saying is be responsible with it. And any of Fi's subs will be able to get fairly loud and sound decent doing it. its all dependent on space available and power available.

X2 and not just speaker wires, were talking grounds, power, and if your fuse is loose.

Actually the 3000 is rms power. http://www.maxxsonics.com/crunch/GP_amps_details.html They did something weird with their ratings where the other model numbers are peak power ratings but the 3000 is its RMS rating may be because of the "PRO" tag. http://www.cardomain.com/item/CRUGP3000DPRO All I'm saying is it looks like a decent budget 3000 watt amp. I already have my eyes on a different 3000 watter thats not out yet. And I would never mount an amp to a box nor would I recommend it for that reason and it makes it a easily bundled package for theifs.

Whats your guys opinions on these i know they just came out but we can get preliminary opinions. http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_image...775_62_full.jpg http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_image...775_63_full.jpg http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_image...775_61_full.jpg http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_image...775_64_full.jpg