SouthPole1989

jensen more then likely uses lower grade componots. and the higher voltage does to things: 1 is that is less prone to noise and 2 it allows you to turn down the gain on the amp with out losing anything.

hi, i got around to measure to see where i can mount the amps that i am about to get. and it looks like i am going to have to mount the 1500d on the enclosure. now the enclosure is 3/4 mdf with bracing. i figure if i mount the 1500d on a 1" thick mdf board then mount that to the enclosure that will be enough to limit the vibrations and any other problems with mounting amps on enclosure. so will that be enough or should i go thicker.

would doing a ib set up with like 4 sets on the board and then the other 2 sets where they normally are. work. oh and it is 2 12" not 15" oh and what about these http://www.onlinecarstereo.com/CarAudio/Pr...ProductID=12431

whats considered very efficient. i saw some speakers that are like 93%.

ok. how can i tell if a set can keep up with the two icons.

Then you wasted money that you could have put into the front to actually do what you want your system to do. not really, i didn't have to pay for them.

how do the 12" compare to jl's w3v3 granted that i think the w3 are targeted for low wattage spl.

yea i know but it is a sedan and i do have passengers sometimes.

i do have rear fill.

hi, i am looking for new speakers (i finally found someone to buy my xxx comps) and i don't want to spend more then 200 bucks and i saw the new Alpine SPX-17REF and i am wondering if anyone has any expericance with them. and also if they would take 125 rms and if they could be enough to be heard over 2 12" icons with 1500rms ported.

hi, i have been using my psp for music lately and the difference in volume from a cd and that is huge and i am wondering how can i go about making it louder? i figure i might be able to use a linedriver but then i got to thinkin that might mess stuff up since most are 8 volt line drivers so if a head unit only has 4 volts preamp i can see problems. so can only one shine some light on this. of btw i am getting a Alpine CDA-9885 ( i need a decently cheap but still a decent headunit right now.)

yea, that is what i figure. i am waiting for a reply from db-r to see if i should bother repairing it.

4 ohms, 0 ohm for the ground set all the way down so i can atleast listen to it. if not normal a 1/4 the way up. i can't remove the eq it is my head unit but i did get the amp to go into protection mode with it set on flat. the amp is seeing 14.2 volts and the remote is 12.65 but the thing about alpine is that i need to send it to newyork. ( i already went on their website to where should i send my amp for repair) also i should mention that like 2 months ago the chassis touched a speaker terminal ( i had my subs back to far) and it sparked. and that seemed to start this but it stoped for like a month. then is acting up again.

yea i know worst case scernio is that i will wind up with a sax100.4 if sonic electronix does not honor the warrenty. what is u/s?

solid red. i think it is the one with the abnormal circuit that box.

hi, in my last attempt to rule out installation problem i rewired my whole system again plus i added a ground run and i still having this problem: ok, if i have my eq on my headunit set on flat and turn everything off like loud and my highpass i have to have my gains all the way up to even get 20 volts coming out of it( rated for 100 rms @ 4 ohms) and also if i have my eq set to anything but flat and the gains are not all the way down the amp goes into protection mode at 3/4 volume. and i mean all the way down. like i had one just slightly up and it goes into protection mode and also it does not seem to get as loud as it did before. now i don't have an o scope or know any one who has one to see if it is jsut the clipping indicator. i bought it from sonic electronix back in march i do have a warrenty but have no clue if they will honor it as i do not have any of the orginal stuff. and yes i am aware this is like a big run on sentence.

should i do 2 postive runsof 1/0 from front to back since i can't fit that big of a battery of front.

re audio XXX midrange/ midbass driver. ( i am doing active)

it won't be underpowering that much it will be around around 800 a peaice if you can maintain voltage in the 13's.

ok cool. which would make a better starting battery optima 34/78 or a powermaster d1200? also would it be bad to get the starter battery then like in a month get the second battery with out running an isolator.

true. but when looking for batterys for cars with systems how can you tell if it is enough.

i honestly don't have that much room. i have 8 inch's high be for it hits the hood and i can't lower the battery tray because the tranny's valve body is right below it the biggest for the starting battery is a powermaster d1200 that i could find. but in the morning i will post all the measure meants that i have for under the hood. kinetik says to put a hc1400 up front then 2 hc1400 in the back.

2 sax 100.2 @ 4 ohm sax100.2 @ 2 ohm Saz3000d @ 2 ohm for 2 12" Icon 190 amp alt ( biggest alt) big 3 done in 1/0

hi, i have 2 questions: one how can a person determine how many and which kind of battery's a person needs ( like CCA Ah, etc) for around 2.5k rms and also do you have to fuse a ground run?

Unlikely he'll get anywhere near that. It'll be over 1500w for sure, but under 1750w. Check out the power testing thread for the 1500D. http://www.soundsolutionsaudio.com/forum/i...?showtopic=7116 this link gives a better idea of what it does. http://www.soundsolutionsaudio.com/forum/i...?showtopic=7117 granted that they are strapped.