Jason Witt

Undo your RCA grounds from the head unit, find a new location to ground your receiver and that may take care of the popping and feedback noise. Try to find a new location to ground your amplifiers too. Make sure they are clean, solid, and well connected. That could possibly cure all of your issues. Oh yeah, buy a new battery as mentioned as well.

I have heard mixed things with Crescendo amps for mids and highs. I have heard nothing but good reviews on the Sundown. So yeah in the terms of general quality i'd still put my money on Sundown. These amps have never given me any issues.

The Sundown is worth the extra money IMO.

I hope you can get this resolved. I had a similar issue with a sub shipped to me from FI, and they took care of it for me. I will continue to do business with them for as long as they are around. They do pack their subs well, but fedex throws those things around like bricks of dogshit.

You aren't going to need a huge enclosure for those subs. Maybe a total of 3-3.5 cubic feet.

Well I have hit yet another snag in this project. I have to replace my rear struts before anything else can be done. Shouldn't be too big of an issue besides the funding. I hope to keep things on schedule and will update this log with everything being done. To all of those reading and watching my build, if you are new to audio, it takes a lot more than just throwing a box, some wire, an amp, and subs in your car to have a slamming system that will last for years. It gets expensive, and these kinds of issues are to be expected.

You are on the right track here. Take your time and learn as you go.

You cannot run a pair of DP's on that kind of power. What kind of coils do you need to get? Well some that can handle that much power, and it won't be on a DP.

You have to recone the subs like I said. There is no other way around it. Don't put so much power to them next time.

Nobody is saying any of that. The proof is in the pudding and you have burnt and locked coils. Too much power on the subs.

You can't be silly enough to think that we are that naive.. I don't see a 57.7 here.

I am an hour SW of St. Louis.

157.7? Come on now..

MWSPL? If so there is a good chance you will see me and my team this year. If you are trying to set a record, you have some tough competition.

Upload them to photo bucket then copy and paste the image on here.

Lol, what class are you in man?

Burnt and locked coils are a good indicator you over powered them.

Sounds like you did them in with too much power. A 1500 watt rms sub doesn't need 3200 watts thrown at it and be expected to survive for too long. Oh and

Compare those results with another calculator and see what you get.

How does this work? If it is seven inches in width back, why would you want the port wall 3.5 inches from the rear wall of the enclosure? To my understanding, half width is okay if you do not have any bends. The port would just go straight back. He's not saying the inner port wall needs to be 3.5 inches away from the rear he's talking about measuring the "total port length" when you measure an L port you measure down the middle between the inner L and Outer L to get the total length. Here's a rough illustration that I found... I know what you are saying. Total misunderstanding on my part.

Every enclosure I have built, I have the width of the port the same, before and after the L. I have never had any issues.

How does this work? If it is seven inches in width back, why would you want the port wall 3.5 inches from the rear wall of the enclosure? To my understanding, half width is okay if you do not have any bends. The port would just go straight back.

Okay, you are going to use the total port length of 33.5 inches and make the L 7 inches from the rear wall of the enclosure. You want the back port wall the same amount of space as your inner width (seven inches) from the rear wall of the enclosure.

What is the inner port width?