SS Teacher

I was in the same boat a few years ago with my Challenger. I used the LC2i and was happy enough with the results.

I'd skip the rear speakers and buy a better set for the front.

Awesome, I'll contact them today. Thank you!

I picked up an Orion 2250 SX on OfferUp for $75 (happy birthday to me!). It was advertised as not-working, but it looks good visually and I thought I MIGHT want it repaired. The problem is I can't find anyone who repairs the older stuff. Amp Medics is 40 minutes from my house, but Steve stopped fixing the old ones (parts are impossible to get). DB-R stopped fixed legacy amps back in 2010. So, anyone know anyone who is willing and able to fix my Beast? (I know technically only the Orion XTR 2250 was called the Beast, but I choose to ignore that fact).

It's certainly NOT the best aftermarket HU I've owned (it's probably the worst, actually), but I went with the Raxiom made specifically for the JK. The stock 130 was hot garbage, this unit is infinitely better AND the integration is seamless. NAV, backup camera, 2 rca outputs plus a dedicated sub output, steering wheel controls, Bluetooth, DVD, etc. It does everything, but like all Jack-of-all-Trades, it is a master of none (other than integration). http://www.extremeterrain.com/raxiom-gps-navigation-jk-j101300.html J=just E=empty E=every P=pocket

These better not come out before the Evil tweeters!!!

Dang It! I saw Aaron posted and was hoping they were ready. Well, all good things come to those who wait.

Other than power handling, what are you looking for? What vehicle and how much room do you have for the box? The enclosure makes all the difference in the world when it comes to how a sub sounds.

I finally got one! $150 on Offer UP (I did spend 3 hours of my Sunday afternoon in my car though). Can't wait to replace that HUMONGOUS PPI Black Ice and put this "little" beauty under the seat.

Hahahahahahaha, that's like asking which brand of amp I should get! Shocks are important, do NOT skimp and buy cheap. I'm running Old Man Emu shocks on my Jeep and I am quite fond of them, BUT certain brands are better for trucks verses Jeeps, AND certain companies cater to different environments. OME tends to be a good blend for on and off road but not "the best" for purely off road. My friend runs Pro Comp on his Chevy (37"s) and has had good results, but went with Blisten on his Jeep. SOOOOOoooo, in conclusion my advice is to join an F150 forum and get advice and opinions from F150 owners who actively off road.

Never herd the ICON, but my XCON pounded with 500 watts, you don't need to give it RMS to get loud AND sound great at the same time.

I said 100 watts at 2 Ohms is easier on your electrical because most amps are more efficient at 2 and 4 ohms. OP decide what route you're going BEFORE you buy amps and subs. Finding amps that do 1000 watts at 1 ohm is easy. Finding amps that do 1000 watts at 2 ohms is wayyyyy more expensive. Finding amps that run at .5 ohm is very hard on electrical as a daily driver.

I'm obviously no expert, but it looks like this ScanSpeak Limited Edition D2604/8320-02 1" Textile Dome Tweeter has an fs of 500 hz, 100 watts of power handling, and relatively flat frequency response all the way down to 1000 hz on axis. This appears to be a very good match with the SSA Evil mids unless I'm missing something. Opinions?

The dealer is nuts. She's going to destroy her drive shafts and ball joints.

I live in Flordia so I can live with 33"s and 3.23 gears on my 2 door manual. I probably couldn't live with it if I had a JKU and/or hills.

I'll measure the volume of the pods FCA uses, but I know they aren't tiny. They might actually be close to the .30 cubic feet recommended by SSA. I just did some research on Aperiodic venting (I vaguely remember that from the 90s), but I don't want to cut up the factory pods unless I have to. I picked 3kHz because I didn't think I could find a 1" tweeter that could much lower than that.

I most certainly do NOT want to fry my HU! Looks like I've got a little more research to do...

Awesome, got it! I'll check on relays locally and if I can't find one I'll order it from Amazon.

Excellent. Do you just run multiple turn on leads from the relay (with 7.5 amp fuses each) or do you run a distribution block?

Currently I'm only running 2 amps and just run the remote wire from my HU to both amps, but I'm going active and will be adding a Kicker Front Row and possibly an Audio Control EQL. I don't think the single remote turn on from the HU will power all 4 components and I'm looking into relays. I hit BCAE1 and I think I need a 12V 40amp relay, but the wiring diagram shows a distribution block for the remote wires in 16 gauge. Where would I find one? What do you guys do? I looked at autoparts stores (I will not pay $6 shipping for a $5 part) and found relays but I'm clueless as to where to find distribution blocks that small.

Crutchfield and Sonic Electronix have decent how to guides, but... www.bcae1.com is a GREAT website with tons of basic information, check it out.

I bought an XCON in dual 1 voice coils so I could wire it to 2 ohm and take it easy on my electrical.

37"s would require new axles and at least 4.10 gears not to mention upgraded everything in the suspension. I'm sure that Jeep looks great, but it'll be a piece of hot garbage on the trail. Forget the trail, if she hits a pothole she's going to bend the axle. Off roading is just like car audio- you gotta pay to play.

To piggy back what Billy Jack said, most tweeters use Neodymium magnets because they only need small magnets and the cost isn't too much, but Neo on larger speakers is very costly. Last I checked it cost 4 times as much as silver.

Great choice, you can go almost anywhere without the big axle upgrades needed to safely run 35"s.