SS Teacher

I looked at those, but I have no PC, tools, talent, skill, etc! I don't mind going to brick and mortar shops and paying people who love this industry, I just don't want to run components for the rest of my life. The last place I went wanted to sell me a Helix processor for $700 and some HAT components, I'm like why on earth would I buy component speakers and throw the passive crossovers in the garbage? I won't go back to him, but he did have valuable advice about other things. I was looking at the Rockford processor because I know a local shop who does good work and I'd let them install it. I simply don't have anyone in the Tampa area that I know/trust to handle the miniDSP. Anyone on the forum know somebody in the greater Tampa Bay area?

Driver recommendations in particular, recommendations on processors, if I've got everything straight or if my thinking is off, and yes- aiming, staging, and crossover points, that will play a huge role in speaker selection.

I have a 2011 Dodge Challenger with the following audio gear: Stock HU, base model Audio Control LC2i Audio Control EQL Boston Acoustics GTA 1005- 5 channel, 50X4 + 250X1 JL Audio 12W0 in a 1.4ft3 sealed enclosure MB Quart 6X9 components up front woofers in stock doors with CLD tiles, tweeters in stock dash location aiming up. In boxes in the closet BA GT 275 BA GT 2125 Sundown E-15 My goal is going active to get much better SQ, keeping stock speaker locations, sorry I just can't chop up my beautiful car. Budget around a $1,000 or so, I'm a teacher so I'm totally loaded . What I've learned so far... everything is a compromise don't buy anything else before I actually listen to you guys I was thinking of a processor like the Rockford 360.3 which I can get for a little over $400 to take advantage of the time alignment and EQ's to compensate for the tweeter location. Do some parts express woofers and tweeters, I'm liking the $50ish Dayton Audio 7" woofers, and a small format tweeter in the $50is range. Get some MLV for the doors from Don at SDS and have some good baffles made. Getting a BA GT2300 to power an XCON 10 in a ported box made by DC creations. Lose the spare tire (I'm scared!) and have an amp rack made, consider getting a 2nd battery, those BAs are class A/B, and definitely start with the big 3, keep the stock 160 amp alternator. I've done some reading and don't mind going with 8ohm mids, highs, and 4ohm on the sub. I'm a hell of a good teacher and a damn fine student, please teach me!

It looks like a Sundown product because the website from the link said it used Sundown parts.

Hope everybody in the southeast is ok, killer storm rolled through yesterday/last night. Florida wasn't bad, but George took a beating.

Welcome, we're a little light on the bs and real heavy on the helpful knowledge, hope you enjoy your time here.

Post is a little old, not sure if you already bought it, but YES. I have a Challenger, not a Jeep, but I have the tweeter of my component set in the dash and the woofer in the door and really like it. The adapter plate with the tweeter and woofer in the door location didn't do it for me, didn't like the imaging/staging at all. Moved the tweeter to the stock dash location and lifted the sound stage, much happier. If you already upgraded, what did you get and are you happy with it?

for a fiberglass box, when did they start doin' that?

We're saying don't because it will sound like warm @ss. The 4X6 already has a tweeter, why do you want 2 more? Do you have a sub stage? We're not trying to be jerks, but it you already bought this equipment, it's not going to sound very good. Your midbass will be way quieter than all the highs from the tweeters, you'll have multiple speakers playing the same frequency so imaging will sound terrible. If you want real help do what M5 said and post us that info.

Great carpet work, it is really clean!

I am totally using this map in my Human Geography class today!

Procure a mini jack to RCA adapter. Plug mini jack into iPod or phone. Remove RCA from head unit to amp. Plug RCA from iPod or phone into amp. If it works, the problem is your head unit or RCA from head unit.

It's so hard to be patient. Box is looking good!

Get a patch RCA adapter to mini headphone jack for your phone/ipod and use that as the signal to your amp, if it works, you know it's your head unit, if it doesn't you know it's the amp. Could be a bunch of things, maybe as simple as the sub out on your head unit is turned off.

handman84, handyman? I'll call you handyman! Handyman, I'm not sure if you know this but there are some amazing people who run, mod, and frequent this site. Aaron and Mark are co-owners of SSA, Quinten designs subwoofers, M5 and Impious absolutely know their stuff, Shizzon owns/works for an spl meter company, the list goes on and on, tons of current and former car audio shop owners. I could go on, but I will leave many out and others will start to blush or start to think they're hot sh!t (which they are). This site rocks!

HOLY DOUBLE POSTS, Batman! what's going on? That was totally weird, after my last post I saw double posts of my post and Matt's post, but when I reloaded the hop, it fixed itself. I tempted the internet gods by bragging how well the system worked and was punished for it. INTERNET GODS, FORGIVE ME FOR MOCKING YOU.

I run Firefox and have never had the frustrating load times, but some things just don't show up, I wonder if it's the server at work. I use Safari on my iPhone and only a few times some images won't load.

The "universal fit" worries me too. If you read the fine print, it says "vehicle modification may be necessary". If that is true, and I'm sure it will be, it isn't going to be the cheapest, and BS claims like that make me walk away.

I fell you Matt, my mother, brother, and sister both have those kinds of illness. Matt (can I call you Matt, I'm still pretty new here) you have my sympathy, my mom struggled with arthritis for years, it really, really sucked to see her in pain like that.

California, the land of fruits and nuts.

A pair of tower speakers on a few hundred watts would be insanely loud in a small bedroom but would be nearly useless in an open field. The small confines of a vehicle not only trap the sound waves but also reinforce some of the low notes. Every car/truck/suv is different, but some specific low frequency waves will be louder in your vehicle, example your car might have a 3 db gain at 37htz.

The amount of port area is what affects the tuning. SSA has some great enclosure designs already posted and available for download in google sketch up.

That totally sucks, but give them time to make it right. There are still a lot of passionate people in this business that actually care about what they do.

Alton, sub up port back in a trunk? I've heard mixed reviews, most people go back back, or seal it off from the trunk and fire through dropped rear seats.

The old Cerein Vega strokers were an ugly beautiful kind of thing.