shizzzon

dude, seriously.. i was sweating just watchin that video...

u sound like me stefan.. i'm well under 160 too.. I've weighed the same now for 10yrs.. I will eat the hell out of some food.. what does it do? nothin.. just goes thru me normally so i can eat more later.. Bout 2-3yrs ago, i was diagnosed with a food allergy because my stomach had been hrutin for 3-4months and i couldnt take it anymore.. Ever since i am eating better for my system.. people thought i was gonna gain weight now... nope... Didn't lose or gain when i was eating wrong with this food allergy and i still do not... So for people like us.. we will always be Team PencilSticks

lol.. and the big bar going into your room isnt?

get some boob implants...

yea tell me bout it.. the 3k does and the 1000c4 did too.. Well, if it does, 807tubenut knows how to fix it so if mine do it.. i'll just get it fixed. Also.. my amps are now in transit... Sadly.. i may not be able to run all 4 though.. damnit damnit damnit.. My car's payload capacity is at maximum limit and exceeded by a lot for this build and i may have to cut back on some things.. unfortunately....

no offense but after that post u just made, i am not going to believe anything u may have heard at this point... Switching the polarity of ONE sub doesn't magically make it louder... AC is AC and you can't argue with that... So what you heard is nothing different and if u did.. then when u hear it playing less loud.. you are hallucinating. Secondly.. why are you so happy about running a sub @1ohm in the future? 1 ohm, purely sucks.. i just don't get it.. 2ohm or 4ohm if you knew what you were doing.. I like to save the life of my soft parts when running audio equipment instead of cooking dinner with them.

i work and live around world record holders so when someone like u comes in with a vehicle i'm familiar with.. i tend to give off what i know about them.. In terms of that question u just asked.. i can't answer that... I mean.. if u are dead set on losing ur window.. then.. i'm sure u have the room to effectively run that 18 like it, just forward.. I just don't like losing viewing area on street based designs but i know u said u dont care bout 100x already...

i'll just tell u this as a last resort to change ur mind... Now this guys setup is a single 18" btl but it's sub up, port to drive side. single 8" aero. 2 sundown 3000s strapped @2ohm to this 18 Box is 4.5cuft NET @42hz and does drop in the low 30s. 153.4db at passenger headrest with door open.

seriously- how bout a single 15 BTL? I know these trucks like sub up, port to the side.. For an 18? u would have to fire forward AND i would prefer to do a design for u while retaining the back window view while driving.

it depends on the properties of the tape.. I'm sure if u get some high temp 200F double sided tape that it won't.. I was just looking at 3M VHB tape.. That would work awesome for you but because you must buy it in rolls.. for this little project it's not worth it.. Each roll is $40 and is rated to handle up to 300F continuous, double sided, and xtreme high strength capable of replacing mechanical connections and can be used on plastic and painted surfaces.

Did you see a black cat? then another one that looked just like it? If you did, then it's a Deja Vu. It happens when they change something..

i should give u a demonstration of how strong Fasco 110 is 24hr after it's cured.. good luck on separating 2 pieces...

Hold on hold on.. let me understand this right.... You don't want to put it back where it was because you "MIGHT" need to pull the head unit out? For what? when? why? Whatever you need to do back there, do it now then put it back in and secure the voltmeter back in place. Why would anyone ever normally need to take the headunit out? And even if they did.. we are talking about securing the voltmeter with double sided tape.. TAPE.... Pull the tape off.. put some more on there, done... It's not like u are welding it in there and gotta cut the dash out just to get in there, lol..

got one of the sides secured in the car today... Waiting for the other side to finish drying(being vertically leveled so i can attach the other side)... I believe the 1st side is pretty secure, lol.. It's attached to 5" of wood, expanding foam, 2 runs of steel.. and held by titebond, Fasco 110(the best glue out there) and lots of screws... It's funny but i required so much torque to drive these screws in that my 12v drill just stopped turning on a brand new charge! I had to go borrow an 18v drill just to secure the side of the wall in place, lol. But, that side is tack dry now and i started beating it and it appears that it will not flex whatsoever.. it's pretty damn strong, hehe.

are those amps strappable? if they are, make sure it's in the Master position. Other than that.. it's most likely a signal issue. Take another source like an ipod or somethin and run it's line out to the input side of the amp and see if it still whines.

Word on the street says everybody that has already payed for an amp.. they will be shipping out at the latest Monday, 5-23-11. Expect updated tracking info either tomorrow or tuesday.

Busch gardens and magic mountain is good... But other places that is not owned by Six Flags have some crazy ideas on rides. If u havent ever been to cedar point u should go for 2-3 days.. it takes a LONG time to ride everything.

u talkin bout the ride at kinds island where there are ufos everywhere? Yea that ride is decent. There are some coasters i want to ride around the world that i havent yet. Cedar point was by far the best accumulation of awesome and crazy rides all at one place.

pure copper needs to be protected or it will oxidize.. go to a hardware store and look for an anti or no-oxidant gel or paste u can apply to the exposed wire after securing it into a terminal.

you do not replace, you add when doing this.

Came across this video of Skyline Park in Germany.. Apparently.. they have a ride here that is ridiculous.. Let's just hope the chain never snaps... And also, let's not forget the longest.. most crazy "virtual built" rollercoaster... IF they built this.. i would SO ride the hell out of it!

hmm ok. Tell me how high u can go before u reach the bottom of the back window?

oh.. your best bet is to fire up port out the side in these trucks... Funny thing is my buddy used to have one and he had over 18" deep so i don't know how you have less unless you just won't want to move the seat up a couple inches.

And how are you basing your opinion on this? OP- what vehicle is this going in? I seen you post dimensions but am having a hard time figuring out how you have 47" wide, 35" high and only 15" deep unless you are trying to install in the back of a 7seater van or somethin..

lol, u know us car audio guys need the turbos after we install our stuff just to get back to stock speed, haha.