shizzzon

you may like this GMC- my amps were wired at 0.4ohm daily, 4v preout, gains 60% up. When they did shut off from cooking in the sun while i was at work, they would go into protect... TOO HOT for ambient reasons.

ehh.. i know this may sound stupid on my part.. but if they have yet to shut off.. i wouldnt worry too much.. there has only been a couple times where my amps have shut off, and that was as soon as i started my car after workin all day. Car be parked in the sun.. approx 140F in the car.. heat just aimin directly at my amps all day thru the hatch glass.. I would have to open my door and let al the heat out for a couple min.. then turn stereo back on and all would be fine. I could bump as loud as i wanted to and it would not turn back off. Ambient heat has a lot to do with how they feel and how hot they run too.. Just like computers..

how hot are we talkin? Will it literally burn your hand if u keep your hand on them or does it just feel very warm? I ran 6 3500ds (audioque) within 1in from each other for 13 HOURS (road trip) to SBN this year and when i got there, they were warm as hell and i still competed and never went into thermal protection. I've felt plenty of hot ass........ amps, hehe, but none hot to burn you. If they are that hot.. they wouldnt stay powered for long.

Another pic so far- I have to keep all these 2x4s ran across so the foam doesnt try n break out while it cures... I'll have to wait at least a day before working on this area anymore.

Hey soap.. u see who currently holds AS2 record right Right here in KY. Ben Wood. I helped him build n tune that setup. I'm hopin he changes his install before finals... I'd like to see a 147 out of it but i dont know if he's got the time.

got another pic of progress so far.. Got the sides filled right now. Now, i'm workin on filling the void on top of the rear wheel well... hopefully i'll get that done today and get a pic of that.

Text Sent.

um... isn't that normal?

he might be

ok he will

talkin to myself... literally

I was showing off your meter at a show today to the local shop, they really want one....bad! We still have plenty in stock... I just hope we don't run out within the next few weeks though... Company is closed until mid October. On vacation I, on the other hand, will not be on vacation for another 5 months...

you know, i totally forgot if u cant choose between everything already listed, you always have Team PSI to go through.

if she or whoever wants to run those shows needs an actual accurate pressure meter, either you or have them contact me. PM me if serious.

yea the term efficient is loosely thrown around on high rise subs... It makes the electrical system real efficient.. but u need or want lots of power to take full advantage of them... So, not efficient on amp requirement or potential but efficient on battery requirement.

when u keep sayin loud.. i'm gonna keep sayin, because i'm DC biased, Dc Level4 XL with SPL motor. U can dump a few thousand to it since they have high rise.. it won't kill it. Don't worry bout power received, they are efficient. They are more efficient than the stock lvl5 motors are. U also have Nightshades too if they come in tens.

Would it be better to actually talk to someone in person? It sounds like you need a counter person to answer questions on things u read about...

u can go to www.the12volt.com or www.bcae1.com and read up.

single sub should excel over 2 subs n that space even if powered by same power.

the lvl5 10 may be too wide due to the bracket. IF anything DC, i'd vote Level 4 XL-SPL motored. That way u can run all the power u want to.

start by removing one speaker out of the door at a time and playing. Sounds like at least one of your speakers is grounding out on the frame.

just check fuse for alt turn on. Also, i'd only recommend removing remote turn on if stereo still doesnt turn on after ensuring the ground is secured. I would get a dmm and check 12v constant on to make sure it's there at the headunit Also, check the ignition wire too once key is turned over to make sure that wire is reading right too.

i forgot to say why... Replace alt fuse ONLY if it's popped. If it is u replace with higher because typical HO alts pull more exciter current.or whatever it's called.

check your alt to see if it's putting out anything. If it's not, pop fuse box and check alt fuse turn on fuse. It should be around 10A or less Replace this with a 15A fuse Next, check ground on headunit and also remove the turn onlead from the stereo if it still doesnt turn on to see if that helps.

actually, my agm charger has gone over 16v before but it does it to excite the battery. If it's REALLY cold outside or discharged bout 30% or more, it will raise it's voltage between 15.7-16.5v for just a few seconds then drop back to 14.7v solid til it's done. It's nothing to worry about. I've done that for a whole year and the batts have never got warm or warped or anything abnormal and still read 13.16v when fully charged.