shizzzon

i'll get back with u by friday

I know some people may not know this or may forget but there is an update to this software that will suppress pressure being read below 20hz. I will note that practically nobody needs to use the update even if the meter was somehow reading 130db @ lets say 10hz because your actual pressure reading at whatever note it is will still be just as accurate as the termlab is. It's just apparent that it does read pressure below that threshold and users have the option of installing the update to prevent that from showing up before you actually meter.. More of a cosmetic update than anything else. It doesn't effect performance with or without the update UNLESS you are metering below 20hz.

yea i know, that's why i thought he had it connected to the yellow wire because that's always hot.... but he said he didnt so i want to know if the red wire is still showing a voltage reading when the car is off... If it is... then either that's NOT the ignition wire, or something has been bypassed.

lol, i'm waitin for this answer

hmm... measure voltage across that red wire when the car is off. see if u get a reading.

easy question- What color is the wire that you used that is spliced with the remote wire? It suppose to be RED. If u spliced it with the yellow wire... then there's your problem.

Fast answers- 1. Yes. 2. No.

SSA Forum - * Bigrank916 - USB/LCD Meter * woodskilla - USB/LCD Meter * oscar r - USB Pro Meter * SexySoundLab - USB Meter * power-fanatic07 - USB Meter/LCD Meter Other Forums - * 01SpyderDb23 - USB Meter * 90TalonTSi - USB Meter ROE Forums - * djmatrix313 - USB/LCD Meter * lifesfordeath - USB/LCD Meter CA Forums - * audio_phill - RTA with enlarged bandwidth to 20hz-22khz CACO Forums- * Team Aftermath - Robert - USB/LCD Meter Total - 11 Can we get to 25 for the ultimate discount?

sorry to get off topic but u been askin that forever, lol. I don't care who comes down whenever.. If u wanna save some gas, I'll be goin to a show in Evansville, IN on 5-22-10, u can meet me there if u want.

This is very true. He was the one who went on his own to get this meter to his door. I like the products this company manufacturers and decided to import these so others could get them too.

I am an intel guy all the way. AMD may post better benchmarks in games STOCK but that's it. Intel is ahead of AMD overall in everything else speed-wise. Also, I do love NVidia and their drivers are far more user friendly than ATI's are... but ATI is cheaper than NVidia and they are both competitive...

sorry to say this but look at it from this perspective- That 1500w amp on music should rarely be pulling above 100A and if it does, it's very fast and that's it. your alternator is capable of outputting 110A at idle (supposedly) so for u to be dropping that low means your alternator rating while driving is a lie... Second, if u were to tell me that you had a STOCK alt and a single yellow top in there, dropping that low may be normal... However u have a H.O. (supposedly) Get your dmm out and check to make sure the voltmeter isn't wrong first. If it's not wrong, jam on it for a while then turn it off and measure voltage at alternator, then front battery, then at amp. This allows the wire to heat up to get better voltage drop measurements, if there are any, to see if u have any problem areas.

Those of you interested, do not forget about the group buy that is in the for sale section! One person already tried to order there's immediately and was referred to the group buy to try and save them money, lol. Funny, but true. The meter has already been used and is quickly responsive but I'll let him tell u all his side since he's so elaborate, hehe.

if u gonna try it, make it more than 1" tall height-wise. I don't know if the air can be felt ALL the way around the opening but allowing only 1" height all the way around is asking for port noise. I'd do at least 3" clearance and make sure the internal box is 3" from the back of the design as well.

I havent personally but their the guys to go for reconification

pull it out of the box and see if the spider has come unglued

i also notice u say u leave the radio on all the time.... Low voltage problem?

maybe the remote line is too weak to power up both amps. Get you a relay perhaps?

Word on the street is nobody took a video....

it prob isnt gettin warm because you are playing a tone around tuning which has higher impedance rise = less real power. To make a point... put a 60hz tone on it and do the same thing, i bet it got hot quick, but dont do it too.

that must be a typo... They want 180 for a recone to an SE? The BL recone is cheaper than that...

take a small piece of wire and connect it into the power insert on your amp. Take the other end and touch and hold it inside the remote insert. This will temporarily "jump start" your amp to see if the remote line needs attention. If your amp comes on, then the headunit needs attention. Curious as to how the voltmeter gauge is wired up. Where does it connect to?

no problem, custom is always the best. You are in control of anything that happens and can fix it with ease... plus it's just so much better. you'll see when u do your first one.

u want to OC something.. get in touch with me. I'll tell ya how to do it safe. All i need to know is the brand and model of your motherboard and the memory modules u are using, model number specifically. From there... i need to know your current cooling solution on your processor and how it was installed on your processor. I have a Q9300 that is set to run stable on an everyday basis - 24\7 from 2.54 to 3.33ghz on aftermarket cooling. runs no hotter than 57C on gaming. I tried to go higher but due to my memory speed needs to be dropped for slight tweaks.. it's not worth it for my purpose. I can get it higher but what i do.. processor speed isn't as important as memory speed.

Jesus! And i thought walls for terrible for driveby... and vans too due to their low window area... You have completely killed that thought! Will they let you run in a driveby class other than DB5 since u run off of low power?