shizzzon

Acrylic is plastic sheeting like i was thinkin about... and like u say, there WILL BE SEAMS :( Plexi would be too heavy. I dont think thickness would need to be 1\4".. i was aiming for 1\8" to keep cost down. Anyways, jumping the seams is tricky. I found some stuff online that is suppose to be super lubricated that sprays out. Maybe i could spray that across the seams, i dont know...

it's possible.. I know a close buddy of mine capable of doin just under a 154 with a single 18, no wall. It's possible, just harder. I'm planning on downgrading cone area and increasing motor strength to get me tons louder. I use ~400sqin of port but that's not enough for competition. I'm tryin to get at least 600sqin out of a car... this will be a challenge.

it's a dbdrag style wall. Tuning and peak will change with modification so it's not important. The design isn't even started to be built yet but once it is, and tuning has been set, i will then need to smooth the surface and finish tweaking the tuning again to finalize the design.

I totally agree. #5 is the one that should be made. The rest of the shirts have awesome style but the others do not fit the impression SSA gives.

I am currently looking for the best method or material that can be used inside an SPL based enclosure that can help get an extensive increase in pressure. Lots of people do different things but most follow others... Typical things tried is- sanding wood, applying resin, resanding, resin over, etc.... Ceramic tiles. Using heavy material such as marble or granite(not what i'm looking for). I am looking to find out if sanding and resining is what should be done, OR.. if laying material inside of an enclosure will yield better results. sanding and resining can lead to human error with imperfections in the smoothness and this is why i'd like to see if there are materials out there to compensate for it. I have a large list of materials to choose from but since i cannot physically touch them and know nothing else about what all is out there.. it's hard for me to just say... That's the one, hehe. I have been looking at Acrylic based sheets and Polypropylene. The goal is to have the finest, smoothest surface possible. Weight is also an issue so i cannot build an enclosure out of it, that's why i'm looking into thin sheets or laminate based sheets.

the router 100% Find what the outer diameter is of both speakers than set that size. Measure the depth from the mounting frame and set your router to cut to that depth or a hair deeper. Cut those 2 circles out first. That way no wood falls off and you still get your center point to use. Now just readjust your circle jig to cut out the mounting hole and WALA, done.

Seriously, any company nowadays who still list power ratings by peak power... i'd skip that choice.

this thread still isn't dead. I'm planning on ordering some more tools soon and start making the power\ground inserts and speaker terminal inserts as well. Again, daily drivers need not acquire these... these are primarily focused on the competitor for overkill purposes. in a month or so, i hope to show off some of them. Goal for inserts- For power\ground- capability to hold 2 runs of any size cable up to 4/0 per insert. For speaker terminals- capability to hold 2 runs of up to 8awg cable per insert. THE SPEAKER INSERTS WILL ALSO BE USED to insert in the sub's terminals! This will help those who try to run 8awg wire to their subs terminals and have to keep trimming it to fit! These will come in handy for that purpose. They will also be made in a way to be able to rewire to series or parallel by just moving a cable to a different part of the insert for those who can get inside of their box or if you wish to pull the sub out. You can also do this at the amp but requires a lot of wire runs and is impractical money-wise. I'm getting there...

There's another system i came across too but cant find pricing so must be $$, it's called SPL-X but besides that, that's all i know, lol.

I don't mean to criticize your new build but have you ever thought(unless u are) about building one with neo mags? There aren't many companies doing that right now but for those of us who need 50-100lb motors for competition who can't support the weight when using multiple drivers... there's a big interest in this part of car audio at the moment. Of course it also benefits those who just daily drive too due to the weight of these monsters.

You guys like it when i tease? lol Well, i'm gonna stop goin to shows for a couple weeks and try and tweak my wall a little. I can't seem to break 153s anymore.. i must be gettin old, lol. Anyways, the last show i went to, my back wall cracked where the allthread is ran at... so it wont be too much longer til i gotta tear down and rebuild. So where is the teaser part? Oh... here it is- Once i tear down and rebuild, after the car is braced for the first time... should have done that prior to the wall, i'l be testing some single sub setups before i build another wall. I've got a part list for a design and some equipment later on this year for the goal i plan on doing this year... oh da da da da da... sometime towards the end of summer, ladee dee dee dee dee... i'm gonna try and break a 160... off of 320A of fusing... Remember, the wall i have now was just to learn off of... the next one will be for real. This new build will go out to all those who are helping me do this... DC Soundlab DC Power XS Power KnuKonceptz The A Team and some other competitors that are not in my class that wish me well Go Team DC Audio...

yea i see... i guess i'll just go meditate til May.

i dont know who u have been talkin too but i have emailed them and this is the 4th day i've waited and still no answer to my inquiries. They seem shady to me... I'm glad i havent already done business with them because the DA wouldnt help me any, lol.

i can guarantee you this- If u want extremely loud with awesome sound quality... you prob spend more money on equipment and testing than u did on those 4 18s alone. SQ cost more than SPL does... well... typically. Depends how loud u are, I'd pick up the phone and call Hybrid Audio and get some knowledge from them and see what they tell you to do. Point is not to use their equipment but they use to be big SQ guys and know what sounds good...

i know what you mean by loud... but do not use the word clear as it doesnt pertain to loud, Sure you can control the clarity of it, in reference to low distortion output, but when it comes to phasing and proper aiming of the speakers, that can throw the clear out somewhat as i would interpret clear to mean more on the sound quality side and it's easier to tune less speakers than it is more speakers. So... for just loud, i'd start doin research on a single pair of horn tweeters and a few sets of woofers for your doors and get your doors sealed and deadened too. See if that's what you want and if it is... then there you go. It probably won't even sound as great in terms of clarity as a stock system would but it will definitely get loud.

because horns rely on the acoustics of the car and how the sound rolls out of the horn to achieve it's efficiency that people assume will be achieved. They must be mounted under the dash properly, otherwise.. it will loose efficiency if just ran wide open like any other speaker.

Not tryin to be Mr Obvious but this piece appears to be cracked-

M5 told me a while back that horn tweeters are geared to just get piercing loud. They are not smooth like normal tweeters, so they are peaky from what i gather. I wouldnt mind tryin some... but do not get 4... That's hilarious.

not set to ohms, u cant...

so.... i drove to daytona for a show. thats 13hrs away for me.

if u add another battery, you need a voltmeter installed to monitor the rear battery. IF, which i do not believe at this moment, that your front battery is severely discharged, adding a second battery will only lead to prolong overworking of the alternator and one would need a remote voltmeter to monitor a change in voltage when the stereo is low or off. You don't want an alt to burn up from trying to charge low batts. But, enough speculation... Don't decide anything without knowing some fact about what's going on.

are your lights dimming fairly low when this happens? From past experience with several other pioneer units... right before it goes into protect, does the bass sound aggressively distorted in any way? If the sub sounds different, like it's trying to do too much right before it goes into protect, your rca preouts may be going out or are already damaged. Pioneer units are 100% prone to this and they need to fix this issue ASAP. I'm not saying that is your problem but if you do not have a voltage problem... i'd be unplugging the rca line from the headunit and plug something else up to it like an ipod or something and see if it still does it.

that's normal. Voltage will increase with rpms and\or a load present.

what about wrap? There was a member here, cant remember his name, that would vinyl wrap his amps, they were pretty cool.

your voltage will likely stay the same from the front to the rear when there is no or a low load flowing through that long power wire. Once a significant load is sent through the wire, you will get to see the full extent of your voltage drop issue when you are not using large enough wire that long, not having a battery in the back.. or having other problems like bad ground. IT should be typical for you to see a 0.5v drop during a load from the front battery to the amp... However, because you are seeing a lot more than that, it's not the size-to-length of the wire.... sounds like loose connection somewhere.