Everything posted by shizzzon
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Fi Q Minimum RMS?
just like SPL competition... Go get you an RTA meter or get some pc software with some existing hardware you have lying around and meter your car's response with whatever type of RTA software\hardware you use and display your results. Opinions don't mean anything when everyone is arguing about the facts... So post facts because everything else is speculation.
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BL vs. XCON ?
they are not in the same class. The BL is a get loud sub no matter what it takes. The XCon is a get loud driver without sacrificing it's ability to stay clean at the same time. The XCon can also handle almost twice the power a BL can as to show you how out of place they are when being compared along with their purposes.
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not enough
i want more.. i always wanted a 150. now i've done it... I then wanted a 155... well, i did a 156 in the kick and felt it when i bent over one time during metering! I now want a 160. It's my belief that 150 is where car audio begins but 160 is where life begins... It's not all that common for a 160db daily driver...
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Two 10" SSD build
just got back from doin some more testing on this car. I was able to get his setup up to a 146.2 in the kick today by just tweakin the box and car some. This is for 2 10" SSDs wired to an Audiopipe 3000d @4ohm. He is looking into a new box design to try and get louder right now. He is only pullin 1,274w of power (97.3A @13.1v) so the SSDs still have a ways to go power-wise.
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HO Alternator Help!!!
may be the belt type you are using. Do you have a performance shop around you? I would talk to them about it and make them buy a new belt and warranty their service so if it happens again... they must diagnose it. Belt squeak can be caused by improper alignment, poor quality belt, belt too loose or too tight i think, wet, etc... When the belt squeaks, take the belt off and examine it or better yet, let someone who is qualified to examine it and see what they say.
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Some flexing from my Jeep. 6th order wall
repost links
- I want to play a game....
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HO Alternator Help!!!
um... you talkin about the belt, right? If the belt is squeaking.. have the tensioner adjusted or you may need a new belt. If it's the belt... that's not the fault of the company who build the alt..
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I want to play a game....
Here you go, this should have been put as the first post- http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=z8IxtDLndMM
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Metered today
when u do outlaw, make sure no sunroof is open and the door is open on the opposite side of the meter. Nothing else should be open or rolled down.
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Teh bass killed my fuel pump...
sorry, dont know what i was thinkin, lol
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Teh bass killed my fuel pump...
88 ford crown vic
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home depot MDF
I've got a portable version of the one they use, I have practically every tool u can think of for projects like this and some odd projects... We even have a plasma cutter... doubt i'll ever need to use it though.
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Chat room
then start chattin man. I'm in there ALL the time... Of course many of u guys see me in there and never respond so.. i guess i gotta give u guys my "Active" chat schedule, lol. I'm open for chatting (should be) between 445pm EST - 930pm EST Mon-Friday. Saturday and Sunday will vary throughout the day.
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Important ported enclosure question
depending on how you tune... you may not even use a subsonic filter. Take a look at my setup- I run 4 15s in a wall approx 12-12.5cuftNET tuned to 27-29hz daily. I have my subsonic filter set at 5hz on all my bass amps. These 4 15s are rated at 1,000w per sub, i run 1750w amp rated power to each one. I have NO unloading issues because i play music that is suited for such designs. Now, there are some songs i listen to that go down to 9hz and i can't crank those songs up due to the subsonic being set so low. The subs move pretty damn good on low power below 18hz as it is. In the future, i will turn the subsonic up a little but for the time being, it's a testing phase thing right now.
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Teh bass killed my fuel pump...
in an older car i used to drive, i had 2 muffler shops refuse to install a new catalytic converter on the car because after having 2 of them die within 1 week time and i pass 100% diagnostics... they blamed it on the stereo system... Not too long later, the trunk latch broke off and had to be rewelded... 1 15 in 8 cubes tuned to 29hz was pretty damaging... The box was bolted through the trunk floor with 3\4" bolts and when the lows hit, the trunk floor would actually bow up into the trunk and back down causing MAJOR trunk floor flex. The trunk floor was made out of just thin aluminum.
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I want to play a game....
757 I was actually gonna post what ///M5 posted because i know how he came up with that number, I'm still worthy with my 757 though.
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kinetik 16v
if u never use the 16v side even for charging.. then 2 of the cells will eventually die and that's not good. The trick to using those batts in a car is you must attach a bank of 12v batts in parallel to the 12v post and your alternator charge the 16v post.
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New Idea!
not really. It's basically downfiring into a loading area. I have tried a LOT of different designs due to the shrinkage of volume i had to work with but i was still able to pull off 6.cubes NET with this design. It should be pretty efficient.
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New Idea!
ok, let me know how u like this design.. For those that dont know... he forgot to subtract the space for his batts and amps but this new design allows room for all that. 2 15" nightshades, 2 6" Aeros tuned to anything u want and have enough room to drop below 30hz!
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spl truck
the driver side kick is metering louder than the passenger side kick? You must be moving a LOT of air.
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SPL Sub
The Warden That's probably the most advanced, shortest answer i've ever given. It's not spl only though either.. that's what's so great about it.
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re doing sub and amps
i wont recommend some great subs and some shitty shitty subs... I recommend what i'd run personally.
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spl truck
ok, do u leave all panels off of vehicle? If you don't try that and see if that doesn help. Make sure port is on passenger side. if that's the design in your avatar, it needs to be rebuilt with the port on passenger side if metering on driver's side. close all vents, drop sun visors down so they are aiming at your stomach on both sides of car. Heat the air up in there prior to running. Make sure the heat doesnt get into the box though, just in the cabin area. This will allow the air molecules to move faster. Resin the hell out of the inside of the box. start fiberglassing the floor and headliner if it's legal.
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re doing sub and amps
yes, they are car audio subs Whichever u choose, make sure it's dual 1 ohm.