shizzzon

get soem cheap priced fabric. I bought 4.5ft wide x 24ft and used it all in my car so u will need lot more than that.

i didnt really understand the last part of your comment but we have team meets every other weekend and we personally metered his setup for kicks because he usually runs a single Adassa Warlord in his setup but that's in for repairs at that time. He got the Saz-2000d from a friend who is also building a 10kw+ install who is also a long-time competitor. The guy i am referring to with the 2 18s is snoopdan if u ever heard of him... He's got his own site and has been in the lanes for a few yrs that i know of. With the help fo their knowledge and things i test myself, we are all not part of a team, we all are just friends who help each other. Some info, we keep to ourselves, And walls, i ONLY suggest people run walls if they intend on bassracing or just plain have to to get the most cone area in the vehicle. Walls have no loading area so their cabin gain can drop by over 50%! For straight burps, walls are a horrible choices especially for single or dual subs. If you are referring that the OP's wall is tuned to 24hz... well, he has low port area, that is the whole reason it's hard to get loud. Tuning really isn't hurting that much. You can be tuned wrong and still peak at car's peak.

ok this is my understanding of how they work- Back to the Future The End... Ok, now onto another understanding of how they work- Fluxcaps are used to maintain constant output voltage until they get overloaded. Once they reach their maximum current capability, their voltage begins to drop. The 12v electrical system supplies the power necessary for these fluxcaps to work. So, if you have a single 100A fluxcap that is set to 18.5v output, that means that it will pull current from the alternator and, if necessary, the battery(ies) to properly get the current it needs to step up the voltage. Fluxcaps are rated by their output capabiity, they draw more than what they put out. So, if you have a single 100A fluxcap rated to do 18.5v, based on a constant 14.4v output, it would pull 130.4A after it's 1.5% loss due to efficiency. They rate these fluxcaps at 98.5% efficient. So, single 100A would pull 130.4A at 14.4.. If you had a bank of these fluxcaps, eventually, the alternator would NOT be able to supply all the power.... so you would need a 12v bank of batteries to compensate. So, let's say someone was running 4 of these 100A caps at 18.5v output off of a 250A alternator. Let's assume that only 200A could be supplied to it before it fell to the surface charge... at 13.0v. Let's also assume that average voltage was 12.9v until the draw ended. It would require 145.5A per cap to supply the 18.5v. These amp requirements are maximum requirements to produce maximum continuous current rated output from these fluxcaps. So, now that you know that- fluxcaps can be viewed, in a sense, as an alternator because whatever is supplying the highest voltage is what supplies the power. If the fluxcaps are not being overloaded, then when current demand is requested, it is sent straight from the 12v alt and if not enough, through 12v battery(ies) through the fluxcap(s) and over any 16v batt that may exist straight to the amp. If the fluxcap(s) are being overloaded, just like an alternator which can't supply the current load, the voltage will begin to drop on the output side of the fluxcap. Just like an alternator, it can\will damage the fluxcap if doing this constantly. At the point the voltage drops low enough, amps will then pull power from any 16v battery that may exist. If you have a bank of fluxcaps that require more amperage than what the 12v alt can handle AND you have at least 1 16v battery after the fluxcaps and at some point the fluxcaps become overloaded.... multiple will occur once the overloading ceases. For one, the alt will now be required to recharge the 12v battery(ies) that can to suffer providing large current to the fluxcaps for a high ass demand. Not only that but it's now gonna take even more current to be passed through the fluxcaps to charge any 16v battery(ies) back there... Hehe, so u see how this can end bad if not paying special attention to a setup like this. the alt would try to supply max power, when revved high enough that is, to the 12v batt(s) AND the 16v batt with wasted current through the fluxcaps... what would end up happening now is the alt would again be maxed out and the fluxcaps would start to drain the 12v bank to charge the 16v bank.... Eventually something will die, lol. So, point of this is, there comes a time where a single alternator can only charge so many batts due to a MASSIVE discharge and will eventually die if left discharged too long trying to recharge all this equipment. In my opinion, IF someone wanted to run a single alternator and let's say 2000A of discharge current on the 18v side.. knowing that you must have a massive 12v and a somehwat bank of 16v or vice versa, do NOT let the fluxcap come back on when the car is started and drive at very low rpms to prevent max alt output to try and charge 12v bank. Battery charger would be 105% mandatory in this scenario. I hope u see how these work now. I'm not downing them in terms of them being terrible choice, i'm trying to get as detailed as possible because there is LOTS of responsibility when running these for 18v installs. By default, they come set to provide a constant 14.7v but can be custom tuned to higher voltages... If one needed a constant 14.7, then all the batteries would be before the fluxcaps because it takes more current to maintain voltage. So, if someone has a LARGE bank of batteries for a large install, these would be awesome to have and able to burp at a constant 14.7 rather than 13.0 or lower if u didnt have 100s and 100s and 100s of amps for alternators.

i dont know exactly what u are hitting and your note and all that but this is what i do know- You have 2 18s in 14 cubes net with 140sqin of port area tuned to 32hz. I'm gonna assume that is actually correct and you are now running a SAZ-2000D. For starters, you probably gained a lot because your amps previously weren't gain matched probably. Now, onto the present- Wrong tuning does not hurt your score as much as wrong port area does. If you are serious about burping... you need 250-375sqin of port area. That's one thing that will tremendously help. If you want to continue tweaking things without modifying the wall, then try this- Passenger door open, brace outside driver side of vehicle with as many fat people as possible. take driver door panel off. u need to find your note for sure as well. Try and plug your port as best as possible and run a sweep at near max volume on a tlab so u can see what the car's peak is. i got a competitor local to me with 2 18" RE SXs off of a single saz-2000d in a wall doin 151.7 @36hz at the headrest on a tlab.

ok, i'll try and explain how they work later on this evening after i get off work.

well every alternative is gonna be expensive.. look at the example, lol it's over 20,000w of power!

who is chris fryman?

no, unless i've been lied to my whole life.

If you do not know what these are, i'll explain it then go into great detail about the design application and see if it's what you want... Fluxcaps are not fake, this isn't a movie joke, it is an actual device name given to a special capacitor that does many things- It is a Battery isolator, Voltage Booster!, and capacitor all in one. Standard versions put out a constant 14.7v(some restrictions may apply...) but this topic isn't for 14.7v... this topic is for 18v electrical system. This device can be used on a stock or aftermarket 12v electrical system to bump up the voltage all the way to be able to charge or run an 18v electrical system to get the most power out of your amps that support such voltage. So, how does it work, how much does it cost.. well here is what you are looking at- These fluxcaps come in 3 typical models, 50A, 100A, 200A. I was told to go with 100A with typically any design regardless of power output because they are the cheapest to make. So.. let's get down to price, because 16\18v setup is NOT CHEAP! Let me explain how they work then i'll form an example of how much money it takes to run an 18v electrical system. Let's say you have 2 100A flux caps wired in parallel, so 200A total. They pull about 127A per 100A fluxcap to produce 18.5v @ 100A output. They state that they will limit the current throughput but you can also damage them if it needs more current for high demands for constant use... so it's a catch 22... They told me that when you max out the flux caps capability of outputting currenr, any more current required will cause the rated voltage output to start dropping! so it wil start to go down from 18.5 and keep going. What this allows is for any 16v batts u have to compensate once the voltage reaches low enough. So, the alternator provides the power to make these fluxcaps up convert to 18.5v. If your altnernator can't handle it, u will need a 12v battery bank behind the fluxcaps to compensate for current demands through the fluxcap. If the voltage input gets too low cuz you are depleting your batts, it will shut down. You can also use them as like an 18v alternator in a sense. You can run high output 12v alternator, stock batt if u want, couple flux caps and a massive 16v battery bank. I only suggest doing this for burps or very short blasts for daily use! If u have lets say 2 100A flux caps, 200A alt, stock battery, 8 16v batteries and 1000A worth of fused amps in the back. Your peak note pulls 600A of current. When you burp, the alternator will max out trying to supply 200A of current output through the fluxcaps. If it runs out of juice, it will pull the rest from the 12v battery. The fluxcaps then will sense that it needs another 400A of current that it just can't do so it's output voltage will drop to that of the 16v battery bank. The 16v battery bank will supply the other 400A of current until the burp stopped. Once the burp has stopped, the fluxcaps now will act like an 18v alternator trying to charge the 8 16v batts back up. If it pulls more than it's needed input recommended fuse rating of ~127A per 100A fluxcap constantly.. it will damage it! Also, the more current it tries to put out at or near max potential, the more it's voltage output will decrease.... another catch 22 for it's intended use. They recommend putting a fuse on the input line because if there is not fluxcaps in the setup to run the ENTIRE audio system by just flux caps and 12v batts behind the caps powering the caps, then the fuse will blow and prevent the caps from overloading. That's kinda retarded really.... So, if u use them to run a whole setup, gonna be $$$, if u use them for battery charging, can only use them for few minute durations if batteries need a long charge. voltage wil drop as duration continues at full tilt and will eventually blow a fuse to prevent overloading.. So, just how $$$ are these? Each 100A cap is $400! So, let's see what's cheaper- Let's say we want to achieve 20,000w of power. Our amps can handle 18.5v for this example. Our amps right now are rated for 3500w at 14.4v, or 6,500w at 18.5v. Each amp is $700. Here we go- 12v 250A alternator - $500 18v 250A alternator - $500 We will need 6 of these amps to produce 21000w @ 14.4v 6 amps - $4200 Now for math sake, let's match batts to amps in terms of 50% fuse rating = aH capacity of batts for a proper comparison of 12v vs 18v. So, 6 of these amps has an 1800A fuse rating, so we want 900aH worth of 12v batt- 8 D3100s = $2640 ($330 per battery) Ok, let's round up the pricing here- I'm not countin the alternator as it will always be the same price for both electrical systems. Amps = $4200 Batts = $2640 Total = $6840 Now let's look at the alternative - For a pure 18v system, you need stepdown transformers because they only do 25A continuous, 50A peak per unit. Let's say we have 250A worth of fusing to run mids and highs and to run the car! Car = 50A average, mids\high amp = 125A average use out of mids n highs amp totaling = 175A continous to be safe! step down transformers - $115 each, need 7 of them so - $805 4 amps at 18.5v does 26,000w yay!, lol = $2800 4 amps has 1200A fusing so we need 600aH worth of batts... 12 D1000s - ($250 per batt) - $3000 Pricing time - Transformers - $805 Amps - $2800 Batts - $3000 Total - $6805 That's a $35 dollar savings plus 5000w extra watts... However, what if u already have a 12v high output alt? You would then have to buy an external regulator and labor charge TWICE to have it uninstalled, shipped back, then reinstalled ~ $300 more... Now you are looking at $7105. Now let's look at Fluxcaps! 4 amps at 18.5v does 26,000w = $2800 4 amps has 1200A fusing so we need 600A worth of flux caps! ahh!!! 6 100A flux caps = $2400 12v battery bank to supply demand - 5 D3100s (585aH + high output alternator)= $1650 2 16v D1000s to compensate for over current demands beyond 600A - $500. Pricing roundup- Amps - $2800 Fluxcaps - $2400 12v battery bank- $1650 16v battery bank - $500 Total - $7350! wow... Now let's look at the alternative- Still using flux caps, just VERY FEW of them and a large bank of 16v batts. 4 amps at 18.5v 26000w = $2800 1 D3100 behind fluxcaps = $330 2 100A Fluxcaps = $800 need about 600aH of capacity, fluxcaps already taken care of 200A worth, so we need 400A of 16v battery. 8 D1000s = $2,000. Price time - Amps = $2800 All batts combined = $2330 Fluxcaps = $800 Total = $5950! So we have a winner, running massive 16v bank with low numbered flux caps saves the most money... Problem here though is you can ONLY do this for short durations. Once the flux caps are overloaded, they will be on the verge of their fuse popping. Regardless if fuse pops or not, if u are drawing several hundred amps of current, the voltage drop will be at the batt's float or lower! So, running less fluxcaps is somewhat risky because even when the burp is done, it will want to charge the batts back up risking another overload scenario and possibly blowing out a fuse. So, to run the cheapest alternative is after the burp, to disconnect the turn on wire and manually charge the 16v bank on a REAL charger ONLY if the fluxcaps can't handle the load due to the battery bank being to discharged.

ok they called me after they closed.. nice people explained everything yada yada yada, i will post what i gathered in a new topic in the Amps\electrical section.

ok here is the original video... again, lol Keep in mind, this was back when there was no port in it the wall.

i did, it was on one of these pages in this build log.. Oh well, i'll post it again, lol hold on

got another vid, not really as funny as the other one but at 1:45, you get to see this guy's shirt movin pretty good inside on the passenger seat. I was 5 parkin spaces down when some girls started doin dance moves in their car.. i've heard i can be felt from aways...

if u need to fix it immediately, go get some Silicone II CLEAR version. Unscrew the sub(s) and run a pretty large ass bead around the mounting point. You can get it in the screw points cuz the torq on drills should be strong enough to remove the screw easily. Once large ass bead is applied, lol, set sub back in place and let it cure overnight. If you have time to kill, order some speaker foam tape at partsexpress.com and run it around the underside of the speaker. That way you won't have sealant all over your sub(s).

u will need 2 deka intimidators. There model number is 9A31. You will need a 250A alternator preferrably. A 200A will work but not for yearly long term use every day u jam on it. You will have to give the alt a break every now and then.

i spent a few thousand on 2 12s and 2 aq2200ds bout a year ago... If u wanna save some money, don't replace your starting battery if there's nothin wrong with it. For people on a tight budget, i'd do the following- Stock battery, DC Power alternator, Deka intimidator in the back, 2 dekas in the back if u got more than just that sundown back there. 2 dekas = $360 = 200aH

the D3100 is 117aH, slightly higher float, their forum is on this site, very nice company and goes for $330 shipped

here is new video, lol- This guy hates my car because he thinks i'm crazy stupid for how loud it is... He's funny though, he didn't wanna be in there at all at first but then when we talked him into it... he had to keep his ears covered.... Wimp, lol

i never told u guys the results of the pressure tests- Well, with the passenger door open, the car acts EXACTLY like a box and the passenger door being open as a port. Back pressure is at it's greatest opposite the port, which would be the driver side of the car. Every time i braced driver window, driver door, sunroof on driver side only.. Anything on driver side, the pressure went up! If i tried to duct tape weather stripping areas to prevent air from coming out.. i drop pressure. If i pressed on the sunroof in the middle, pressure would drop. It HAD TO BE on the driver side only. My driver door is not deadened yet... I was talkin with a competitor and was warning me about deadening the door with anything saying that even if it prevents flexing that it will more than likely lower peak note and hurt the score... I may need to use foam instead or nothing, dont know yet. I'm gettin close to runnin out of pressure increasing ideas. I got a few more port tricks i gotta test then the only thing left that i know of is... more power... Oh... stay tuned... new video is being uploaded in 60 seconds!

i swear if he picks you as the winner i quit...

no, hehe, most agms float between 12.8-13.2v I know XS powermasters float around 13.1v because i use them. I've seen both Kinetik and Deka's only float at 12.8-12.9v. This is with car off. Point being is this- The higher the float, the higher your voltage will be if your alternator runs out of juice. Also, it's apparent that because they float higher, they got more reserve in them...

well harrison labs is slower than a Kia... I've called them all day and left a message and it appears that company just doesnt exist... Good thing i didnt need an rma today... i'd be pissed... I guess i'll start emailing them now.

it might float lower. I've noticed cheaper priced batts like kinetik and deka intimidators float slightly lower than more expensive batts do.

When you go by your screenname in real life

when your vehicle looks like a custom all-electric vehicle when in reality it's not driveable...